I have read your advertisement in the past, and also viewed the youtube video regarding your diverter.

that picture shows the difference between one with diverter and one without.

I didn't say anything about diverter's function. If it works. Great.

However, what I said was, if you read correctly, unless the gap between the seal is monumental, there wouldn't be a huge difference in its' efficiency anyways.

Looks like you were just trying to point it out to help NAMers, and I gave another opinion. That's all.

No need for smart smiley faces.



drew-

 

Has anyone tried the Chrome Spray paint. I am wanting a chrome intake but do not want to pay $130+ or an overlay. Was wondering if looks like the chrome on the cap or not.

 

It will not look chrome, like the cap.
Its just a silver metalic aluminum look.

 

Thats what i figured thanks for the reply

 

I've been meaning to show this for a while. I had finally gotten around to making myself a shift ****. The nicest thing about it is that it cost me exactly zero dollars, as the ball was given to me, and I had everything else necessary to make it.



I think it looks great, and it shifts better than the stock ****. For one thing, its bigger, so it fits in my hand better.

 

That looks cool. Is that a 13 ball? The glare kinda makes it hard to read the number (it's been *YEARS* since I've shot pool)....

C ya,
Dutch

 

Yes, its a 13 ball. I couldnt get rid of the glare from any angle, so I posted the best shot I could get.

My car is completely monochromatic, so an 8 ball wouldve been a more logical choice, but an 8 ball seems to be what everyone uses for things when thinking 'billiards,' so I went with the 13 for various numeric and color reasons.

 

If I were going to do that, I'd probably pick a 6 or 14 ball. Green, IIRC.

And, on topic (kinda) -- it's not quite cheap or dorky, but it is heavily discounted , so it kinda fits here:

I got a used Detroit Tuned bypass valve for less than half the cost of new, and as soon as I have an opportunity to get to where I can do the work, I'll be installing it and enjoying much better boost (especially at low RPMs).

I did the VGS mod that moves the vacuum for the valve post-supercharger, and it helps a lot once you start developing a little boost, with the boost pushing the diaphragm and closing the valve the rest of the way (the original's weak spring doesn't close it all the way) to reduce boost leakage through the valve.

The "new" valve is closed just sitting there , and it closes all the way (I tested it when I was cleaning it, and it's almost watertight when closed) , so I should start getting boost MUCH earlier , which will help with torque in the low and mid RPM range. The "throttle stop" set screw is backed out noticeably from where it's set on the factory unit, too, so I'm guessing that the factory unit leaks boost even when closed. As a result, I should get a bit more boost at high RPMs too. If you can't tell, I'm a bit pleased with the idea of getting more boost....

Once I pull it out, I'll snap some pixs of the "new" and original units for comparison....

Pixs, as promised....

Before:

Note the amount of light you can see around the throttle plate at the point where the spring stops trying to close it.
To quote Wile E. Coyote, "Yipes!"

After:

The DT unit's spring closes it all the way fairly firmly, so that actual vacuum is required to pull it open. It also has its stop adjusted so that the valve closes tight....

C ya,
Dutch

 

My weekend project: red+yellow paint; cooper stickers total cost $20.

 

Let us know how those letters hold up, it loss slick like that!

 

Where's the yellow paint?

 

I mixed the yellow with red to bright up the color. It is about 10% of yellow add to the paint.

 

He means in the picture....I don't see it either

 

i think "dosomething" mean he mixing red and yellow paint together with the ratio of 90% = red and 10% = yellow. It sprayed on the brake caliper :D

 

yep that is what he means... if you mix a little yellow with the red you will get a "brighter" red by making it more on the orange side of the color spectrum.... it works well as long as you do not over do it and come out with orange :(

 

thank you Vodka & Lancesr! that is what I did.

 

Came out really uneven but it was my first time working with wrinkle paint. Really a pita to get even coats.

 

Looks nice!

C ya,
Dutch

 

Dutch - would love to see the pics...

Also - how long did it take you to do the VGS mod? I am definitely interested in doing it. Also - where did you get the vaccuum hose and T?

 

Here's a link to the VGS mod thread.

IIRC (it was a while ago) it took longer to clean the intercooler and intercooler boots (they were out, so why *not* clean 'em) than to install the vacuum hose and tee. The hose and tee came from Autozone.

The existing factory bypass valve:


The "new" one:



It's hard to see in my blurry camera-phone pix, but the old one's not even pushed against the throttle-stop screw, and, from what I've read, the throttle-stop screw is adjusted to allow a little boost leakage on the stock units. Better pixs to follow when I get the old one out....

HTH!

C ya,
Dutch

 

you think the VGS mod was worth it though right? did you throw any codes when you did it?

 

Totally worth it. It just helps the lame factory valve do what it's supposed to do, which is, close all the way to the throttle-stop screw.... I got no check-engine light, and much improved performance. The new valve will replace the interim fix the VGS provided, giving me torque sooner (since I won't have to wait for it to start making boost around the leak to push the valve the rest of the way closed), and more total boost (since its throttle-stop screw is adjusted better than the stock one).

I just wish I had my vac/boost gauge installed so that I could see how much boost it has now, pre-install, so that I could compare it to post-install. Likely I'll be able to feel it in the ever-so-accurate "butt dyno", though....

C ya,
Dutch

 

dude I have the best butt dyno ever... :p

 

Please don't post pixs.

C ya,
Dutch