R50/53 Dorky cheapskate modification
#427
#430
In case editing an existing message doesn't trigger a "new message in subscribed thread" email, here goes a new message with the pixs pasted in, for BillyCuth:
Before:
Note the amount of light you can see around the throttle plate at the point where the spring stops trying to close it. To quote Wile E. Coyote, "Yipes!"
After:
The DT unit's spring closes it all the way fairly firmly, so that actual vacuum is required to pull it open. It also has its stop adjusted so that the valve closes tight....
I've noticed a marked improvement in low and mid RPM torque after putting this in, though just as much improvement could be had from simply picking up a used stock one at the junkyard, adjusting the set screw (or simply filing it down a bit) so that the plate closes fully, and stretching the spring that's inside the vacuum motor diaphragm so that it holds the plate fully against the setscrew at rest.
If I'd found a JY here that had MINIs before I found the smoking deal on a used Detroit Tuned bypass valve, that's the route I'd've taken.
C ya,
Dutch
Before:
Note the amount of light you can see around the throttle plate at the point where the spring stops trying to close it. To quote Wile E. Coyote, "Yipes!"
After:
The DT unit's spring closes it all the way fairly firmly, so that actual vacuum is required to pull it open. It also has its stop adjusted so that the valve closes tight....
I've noticed a marked improvement in low and mid RPM torque after putting this in, though just as much improvement could be had from simply picking up a used stock one at the junkyard, adjusting the set screw (or simply filing it down a bit) so that the plate closes fully, and stretching the spring that's inside the vacuum motor diaphragm so that it holds the plate fully against the setscrew at rest.
If I'd found a JY here that had MINIs before I found the smoking deal on a used Detroit Tuned bypass valve, that's the route I'd've taken.
C ya,
Dutch
#431
Want to hear dorky and cheapskate? I took my BPV (spring has broken so it's been air driven by the VGS for what I'm starting to figure to be about 80-100k miles now, and I zip-tied the valve so it's always open, only lost 3 MPG and made a world of difference on the top end, picking up a full pound of boost and adding a lot more punch to the SC.
I'll need to get a new BPV soon though as it leans things out at idle a little. 3 cent zip tie gave my car back all that power it's supposed to have had all these years.
I'll need to get a new BPV soon though as it leans things out at idle a little. 3 cent zip tie gave my car back all that power it's supposed to have had all these years.
#432
Want to hear dorky and cheapskate? I took my BPV (spring has broken so it's been air driven by the VGS for what I'm starting to figure to be about 80-100k miles now, and I zip-tied the valve so it's always open, only lost 3 MPG and made a world of difference on the top end, picking up a full pound of boost and adding a lot more punch to the SC.
I'll need to get a new BPV soon though as it leans things out at idle a little. 3 cent zip tie gave my car back all that power it's supposed to have had all these years.
I'll need to get a new BPV soon though as it leans things out at idle a little. 3 cent zip tie gave my car back all that power it's supposed to have had all these years.
Did it toss a "check engine" light at you for zip-tying the thing?
C ya,
Dutch
#433
A couple of months ago I had a GoMini GPS bracket installed for my Garmin Nuvi. Works great, and the unit is in what I perceive a perfect position. The one thing that bothered me was the power cord to the cigarette lighter receptacle. Yeah I know some of you have figured out how to hard wire GPS's, but I don't have that aptitude. I found (merit.com) a "mini" USB adapter, for $3.49, inclusive of S&H. It fit's in the recepticle, and I now use the cord that came with Nuvi for connecting to a computer and it looks much better.
#434
Yes but one code is much much better than 7 and limp mode for entering into boost. I've got the ScangaugeII and it's made it easy to periodically what codes are in there and make sure I'm not getting new ones.
#435
#436
When the bypass valve is working properly, you'll feel the engine "kick" a tiny bit right after you mash the gas pedal. That's the valve closing, and the supercharger kicking in. With a little practice, you can feather the pedal and *not* feel the kick. I've done it a few times since installing the thing yesterday, as a proof-of-concept, but I like the literal "hammer down" MINI-thump and it's going to take a *lot* of willpower to behave....
With the VGS setup on a stock bypass valve, the "kick" is only apparent if revs are up a bit, so that the supercharger is already making a little boost to be able to slam the valve shut.
Another pixs:
Broken spring. Gee, I wonder why it didn't close all the way by itself....
Kinda tricky to get apart, but if I can source a spring, and back off (or file down) the set-screw, then I have a spare....
C ya,
Dutch
#438
so happy to see this thread still rockin. I found it almost a year ago. And I see it started in '05.
I recently found some old nylon straps with a buckle and fastened them around the headrest posts in the backseat. The buckle is hidden under the head and the seats are much easier to pull up.
I recently found some old nylon straps with a buckle and fastened them around the headrest posts in the backseat. The buckle is hidden under the head and the seats are much easier to pull up.
#441
2nd Gear
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Last edited by s00perc00per; 06-09-2010 at 09:56 PM.
#442
SirTravis: Careful with the inexpensive junk drawer electrical tape - it can leave a residue when removed. I know the Scotch 33+ doesn't after a month or two, but don't know beyond that. The only sure bet is using one of the beltline backout kits available from the merchants here - but if you liike the look there's no reason not to go to the 33+ route (if you like the look), as the stuff holds up well and can be replaced inexpensively.
#443
SirTravis: Careful with the inexpensive junk drawer electrical tape - it can leave a residue when removed. I know the Scotch 33+ doesn't after a month or two, but don't know beyond that. The only sure bet is using one of the beltline backout kits available from the merchants here - but if you liike the look there's no reason not to go to the 33+ route (if you like the look), as the stuff holds up well and can be replaced inexpensively.
Randy
M7 Tuning
#444
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: I live in sunny southern California
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For about $20 you can get a roll of the real deal ,3m scotch cal to do about 3 cars. I did mine 5 years ago and it's still good. It looks as if the part number from 3m is 72793 lho7 . It's rather blurred on the box but that's close. It's spec is 1/2 inch x 50 ft. L.g black. When I bought this roll it was under $18.
Randy
M7 Tuning
Randy
M7 Tuning
#445
#446
I've been meaning to show this for a while. I had finally gotten around to making myself a shift ****. The nicest thing about it is that it cost me exactly zero dollars, as the ball was given to me, and I had everything else necessary to make it.
I think it looks great, and it shifts better than the stock ****. For one thing, its bigger, so it fits in my hand better.
I think it looks great, and it shifts better than the stock ****. For one thing, its bigger, so it fits in my hand better.
I'm thrilled that my thread has been so popular, thanks to all for posting.
#448
#449
#450
Homemade Blackberry Storm cradle for a Nuvi ball mount:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3073593
Works perfectly.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3073593
Works perfectly.