oh oh okay i see what your saying.
no running more positive camber would actually make it worse cause since right now the joints are already being stretched/pulled to their limit so pushing them back together would actually be helpful. since the wheels stay put and the engine/trans gets lowered it pulls the joints apart from each other not together. and both the inner and outer joints are all being stressed actually but the inner joints are just the only ones iv ever seen fail

 

Hey heres a crazy idea how about if you put a washer (of proper size ) betwin the the outer cv joint and the inner side of the wheel hub to push a little the axles i think 1/4 of an inch wont do any harm , like i said a crazy idea

 

whoa now THAT is a crazy idea! i would have never thought about doing that. hmmm interesting. youve got me thinking now. i wonder if that could help? i still might be worried about the angles of the axles tho

 

I dont call it dorky, I call it being creative and thinking on your own. Dorky is when you put a million stickers for manufacturers like DC sport, Nismo and such on a car that they dont make a thing for excepth the piece of vinyl that you put there. Good stuff on this site I tend to frustrate myself bc I get new ideas everytime on. As soon as mines back from shop I'll post some picks of my Dupli-color shadow Black chrome trim pieces.

 

Ok here is another crazy idea, the engine of the mini is fixed by three mounts, i understand that you risse the ones that are to the sides of the engine, but what about the one that goes down on the back if you make it longer somehow you can get the engine roll a little bit and improbe the angle on the axels because the transmision will go up a little i think

 

you are just on fire tonight! this thought actually crossed my mind once and might actually be worth looking into. the only thing i would be worried about is putting extra stress on your exhaust manifold from changing the angle. you would actually have to make the lower mount shorter to achieve this but i dont know how much room you would really have before you start hitting your subframe. good thoughts keep em coming

 

What if you modified the angle of your exhaust pipe to compensate the lifting of the trans, remember when you get to modifiying somthing you end up modifiying more than you first think, but i know you will work it out or you have to lift the suspension a little bit, take care

 

yeah ill just do what whatever i can to not have to lift the car back up. the car looks way too good right now i cant do it

 

Hi there dude, hey does lifting your engine solve your axels problem?, i been thinking about the rear suport, how about this ,make a metal plate with six holes on it then fix the plate to the carter on the first 4 holes(upper ones) then you bolt the support to the plate on the lower holes that way you dont have to make the suport shorter because you are bolting the suport in a lower position and the trans will rise , now the ditance of the holes in the plate are the key to how much you need the trans to rotate the rigth amount for the axles to run in a better angle, again i think

 

This thread has left the "Dorky" far behind..... Not that I mind, just saying you guys are on another level now with this thread...

 

ill be honest, you completely lost me there with that one buddy

 

Ok belibeme i lost my self some time, look im no so good on drawing but here is some bad drawing to explain the crazy idea[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

 

okay now im understanding you! (sort of)
this might actually be the solution i have been looking for.
you see, when i raised the motor i did so by stacking washers and a longer bolt on the passenger side upper mount and by redrilling and relocating the pivot hole for the driver side trans mount one inch higher on both sides.

one thing i didnt do was modify the lower engine mount which you are talking about. so right now its just being stretched upwards. i have the bsh lower mount so im not really worried about it breaking but it does make things difficult to work on with all that pressure being forced onto it.

i think this adapter idea of yours might be a very good solution where i can just relocate the bolt holes 1 inch lower

 

Here's my cheap n dorky mod.

Coming from a MK3 VR6, the R53 dead pedal felt uncomfortable. Too low compared to the clutch pedal. I did some searches on NAM on modding the dead pedal. So did it on Sunday....

What you need:
Small piece of 2 x 4.
Double sided tape
Industrial Velcro
old mouse pad or similar "filler" piece
Black paint

All I needed to buy was Velcro $4

Steps:
1) Use a small screw driver, pull out the oval metal dead pedal insert.
2) Cut old mouse pad to shape and double side tape it in the hole left by the oval piece.
3) Cut the wood. Paint it.
4) Use double sided tape to mount the metal oval footrest onto the wood.
5) Velcro the wood to the original dead pedal.

I decided to use Velcro so I can remove the wood to access the fuse box.

Pictures are here:http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m...20Pedal%20Mod/

Motor on!

Ryan

 

Nice job and great write up. I agree totally, I can't even reach the darn thing as it is and this will do the trick! Thanks

Tracy

 

for like 50 cents, you can get a piece of aluminum flashing from your local Hardware store. for another $7, you can get an air vent as well.

slap it all together, and you get this dorky cheapskate mod!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...c/s960/440.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...o/s960/439.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8...s/s960/444.jpg

i know it "looks" goofy as hell, but when you close the hood, it captures all the air that would otherwise go into the engine and / or hit the SC horn, and diverts it back to the IC. my car didnt come with a stock IC cover when i bought it, and i refuse to spend $50+ on an "aftermarket" one!

 

I like it -- except for the lime green tie wraps

 

bright Yellow actually
and only bc, i didnt have any small black ones!

 

 

Bonnet Vent Mod:



Buh-bye under-bonnet heat!

Cost about $55 for the bilge vents, delivered from somewhere in Maine, and used up a bunch of painter's tape.

It took a bit of psyching myself up to start cutting factory sheetmetal, but I think the end result is both functional and definitely tips the car over the line from "cute" to "mean"....

C ya,
Dutch

 

hey! this is like that mean green mini! looks good!

this may be "the thing" to do to minis now! ive seen several different styles for these bilge vents. id like to see more on minis!

 

dorky free mod.

Better headlights

tools required:
flat screwdriver

1. Adjust the headlights so they are aimed properly using the adjusting screws on the back of the headlight unit. this will take some time since you have to open the hood to get it right.

Tip: dont latch the hood all the way, set it down and compare to the other headlight level so your not always running to unlatch the hood.

 

arent mini headlights self leveling?

 

Nice. I've been thinking about doing this but I don't think I'm ready yet.

 

you could take the bar code off the side and spray some high temp black paint on it. . . would help alot imo. ppl coat the IC if it was all black that would look pretty cool