R50/53 Dorky cheapskate modification
#726
oh oh okay i see what your saying.
no running more positive camber would actually make it worse cause since right now the joints are already being stretched/pulled to their limit so pushing them back together would actually be helpful. since the wheels stay put and the engine/trans gets lowered it pulls the joints apart from each other not together. and both the inner and outer joints are all being stressed actually but the inner joints are just the only ones iv ever seen fail
no running more positive camber would actually make it worse cause since right now the joints are already being stretched/pulled to their limit so pushing them back together would actually be helpful. since the wheels stay put and the engine/trans gets lowered it pulls the joints apart from each other not together. and both the inner and outer joints are all being stressed actually but the inner joints are just the only ones iv ever seen fail
#727
oh oh okay i see what your saying.
no running more positive camber would actually make it worse cause since right now the joints are already being stretched/pulled to their limit so pushing them back together would actually be helpful. since the wheels stay put and the engine/trans gets lowered it pulls the joints apart from each other not together. and both the inner and outer joints are all being stressed actually but the inner joints are just the only ones iv ever seen fail
no running more positive camber would actually make it worse cause since right now the joints are already being stretched/pulled to their limit so pushing them back together would actually be helpful. since the wheels stay put and the engine/trans gets lowered it pulls the joints apart from each other not together. and both the inner and outer joints are all being stressed actually but the inner joints are just the only ones iv ever seen fail
#728
#729
I dont call it dorky, I call it being creative and thinking on your own. Dorky is when you put a million stickers for manufacturers like DC sport, Nismo and such on a car that they dont make a thing for excepth the piece of vinyl that you put there. Good stuff on this site I tend to frustrate myself bc I get new ideas everytime on. As soon as mines back from shop I'll post some picks of my Dupli-color shadow Black chrome trim pieces.
#730
Ok here is another crazy idea, the engine of the mini is fixed by three mounts, i understand that you risse the ones that are to the sides of the engine, but what about the one that goes down on the back if you make it longer somehow you can get the engine roll a little bit and improbe the angle on the axels because the transmision will go up a little i think
#731
you are just on fire tonight! this thought actually crossed my mind once and might actually be worth looking into. the only thing i would be worried about is putting extra stress on your exhaust manifold from changing the angle. you would actually have to make the lower mount shorter to achieve this but i dont know how much room you would really have before you start hitting your subframe. good thoughts keep em coming
#732
you are just on fire tonight! this thought actually crossed my mind once and might actually be worth looking into. the only thing i would be worried about is putting extra stress on your exhaust manifold from changing the angle. you would actually have to make the lower mount shorter to achieve this but i dont know how much room you would really have before you start hitting your subframe. good thoughts keep em coming
#734
Hi there dude, hey does lifting your engine solve your axels problem?, i been thinking about the rear suport, how about this ,make a metal plate with six holes on it then fix the plate to the carter on the first 4 holes(upper ones) then you bolt the support to the plate on the lower holes that way you dont have to make the suport shorter because you are bolting the suport in a lower position and the trans will rise , now the ditance of the holes in the plate are the key to how much you need the trans to rotate the rigth amount for the axles to run in a better angle, again i think
#736
Hi there dude, hey does lifting your engine solve your axels problem?, i been thinking about the rear suport, how about this ,make a metal plate with six holes on it then fix the plate to the carter on the first 4 holes(upper ones) then you bolt the support to the plate on the lower holes that way you dont have to make the suport shorter because you are bolting the suport in a lower position and the trans will rise , now the ditance of the holes in the plate are the key to how much you need the trans to rotate the rigth amount for the axles to run in a better angle, again i think
#737
#738
okay now im understanding you! (sort of)
this might actually be the solution i have been looking for.
you see, when i raised the motor i did so by stacking washers and a longer bolt on the passenger side upper mount and by redrilling and relocating the pivot hole for the driver side trans mount one inch higher on both sides.
one thing i didnt do was modify the lower engine mount which you are talking about. so right now its just being stretched upwards. i have the bsh lower mount so im not really worried about it breaking but it does make things difficult to work on with all that pressure being forced onto it.
i think this adapter idea of yours might be a very good solution where i can just relocate the bolt holes 1 inch lower
this might actually be the solution i have been looking for.
you see, when i raised the motor i did so by stacking washers and a longer bolt on the passenger side upper mount and by redrilling and relocating the pivot hole for the driver side trans mount one inch higher on both sides.
one thing i didnt do was modify the lower engine mount which you are talking about. so right now its just being stretched upwards. i have the bsh lower mount so im not really worried about it breaking but it does make things difficult to work on with all that pressure being forced onto it.
i think this adapter idea of yours might be a very good solution where i can just relocate the bolt holes 1 inch lower
#739
Raised Dead Pedal
Here's my cheap n dorky mod.
Coming from a MK3 VR6, the R53 dead pedal felt uncomfortable. Too low compared to the clutch pedal. I did some searches on NAM on modding the dead pedal. So did it on Sunday....
What you need:
Small piece of 2 x 4.
Double sided tape
Industrial Velcro
old mouse pad or similar "filler" piece
Black paint
All I needed to buy was Velcro $4
Steps:
1) Use a small screw driver, pull out the oval metal dead pedal insert.
2) Cut old mouse pad to shape and double side tape it in the hole left by the oval piece.
3) Cut the wood. Paint it.
4) Use double sided tape to mount the metal oval footrest onto the wood.
5) Velcro the wood to the original dead pedal.
I decided to use Velcro so I can remove the wood to access the fuse box.
Pictures are here:http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m...20Pedal%20Mod/
Motor on!
Ryan
Coming from a MK3 VR6, the R53 dead pedal felt uncomfortable. Too low compared to the clutch pedal. I did some searches on NAM on modding the dead pedal. So did it on Sunday....
What you need:
Small piece of 2 x 4.
Double sided tape
Industrial Velcro
old mouse pad or similar "filler" piece
Black paint
All I needed to buy was Velcro $4
Steps:
1) Use a small screw driver, pull out the oval metal dead pedal insert.
2) Cut old mouse pad to shape and double side tape it in the hole left by the oval piece.
3) Cut the wood. Paint it.
4) Use double sided tape to mount the metal oval footrest onto the wood.
5) Velcro the wood to the original dead pedal.
I decided to use Velcro so I can remove the wood to access the fuse box.
Pictures are here:http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m...20Pedal%20Mod/
Motor on!
Ryan
#741
the 50 cents intake scoop mod
for like 50 cents, you can get a piece of aluminum flashing from your local Hardware store. for another $7, you can get an air vent as well.
slap it all together, and you get this dorky cheapskate mod!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...c/s960/440.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...o/s960/439.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8...s/s960/444.jpg
i know it "looks" goofy as hell, but when you close the hood, it captures all the air that would otherwise go into the engine and / or hit the SC horn, and diverts it back to the IC. my car didnt come with a stock IC cover when i bought it, and i refuse to spend $50+ on an "aftermarket" one!
slap it all together, and you get this dorky cheapskate mod!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...c/s960/440.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...o/s960/439.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8...s/s960/444.jpg
i know it "looks" goofy as hell, but when you close the hood, it captures all the air that would otherwise go into the engine and / or hit the SC horn, and diverts it back to the IC. my car didnt come with a stock IC cover when i bought it, and i refuse to spend $50+ on an "aftermarket" one!
#745
Bonnet Vent Mod:
Buh-bye under-bonnet heat!
Cost about $55 for the bilge vents, delivered from somewhere in Maine, and used up a bunch of painter's tape.
It took a bit of psyching myself up to start cutting factory sheetmetal, but I think the end result is both functional and definitely tips the car over the line from "cute" to "mean"....
C ya,
Dutch
Buh-bye under-bonnet heat!
Cost about $55 for the bilge vents, delivered from somewhere in Maine, and used up a bunch of painter's tape.
It took a bit of psyching myself up to start cutting factory sheetmetal, but I think the end result is both functional and definitely tips the car over the line from "cute" to "mean"....
C ya,
Dutch
#746
#747
dorky free mod.
Better headlights
tools required:
flat screwdriver
1. Adjust the headlights so they are aimed properly using the adjusting screws on the back of the headlight unit. this will take some time since you have to open the hood to get it right.
Tip: dont latch the hood all the way, set it down and compare to the other headlight level so your not always running to unlatch the hood.
Better headlights
tools required:
flat screwdriver
1. Adjust the headlights so they are aimed properly using the adjusting screws on the back of the headlight unit. this will take some time since you have to open the hood to get it right.
Tip: dont latch the hood all the way, set it down and compare to the other headlight level so your not always running to unlatch the hood.
#749
2nd Gear
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 112
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Bonnet Vent Mod:
Buh-bye under-bonnet heat!
Cost about $55 for the bilge vents, delivered from somewhere in Maine, and used up a bunch of painter's tape.
It took a bit of psyching myself up to start cutting factory sheetmetal, but I think the end result is both functional and definitely tips the car over the line from "cute" to "mean"....
C ya,
Dutch
Buh-bye under-bonnet heat!
Cost about $55 for the bilge vents, delivered from somewhere in Maine, and used up a bunch of painter's tape.
It took a bit of psyching myself up to start cutting factory sheetmetal, but I think the end result is both functional and definitely tips the car over the line from "cute" to "mean"....
C ya,
Dutch
#750
for like 50 cents, you can get a piece of aluminum flashing from your local Hardware store. for another $7, you can get an air vent as well.
slap it all together, and you get this dorky cheapskate mod!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...c/s960/440.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...o/s960/439.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8...s/s960/444.jpg
i know it "looks" goofy as hell, but when you close the hood, it captures all the air that would otherwise go into the engine and / or hit the SC horn, and diverts it back to the IC. my car didnt come with a stock IC cover when i bought it, and i refuse to spend $50+ on an "aftermarket" one!
slap it all together, and you get this dorky cheapskate mod!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...c/s960/440.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...o/s960/439.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8...s/s960/444.jpg
i know it "looks" goofy as hell, but when you close the hood, it captures all the air that would otherwise go into the engine and / or hit the SC horn, and diverts it back to the IC. my car didnt come with a stock IC cover when i bought it, and i refuse to spend $50+ on an "aftermarket" one!