R50/53 Dorky cheapskate modification
#1001
All my dorky mods are cosmetic and can be seen in my gallery:
1) Original Cooper lettering fell off and I replaced it with a repro logo. - $17.95
2) Rattle-can painted dash and posts with Rustoleum Hammered Finish paint and clearcoated. - $14.95
3) Rattle-can painted scuttles, ebrake handle rings, interior trim rings on dash, shift & tach; and mirror caps chili red. The chrome trim on the boot is also chili red now. $19.95
4) Spotted cue ball shift **** - $6.95
1) Original Cooper lettering fell off and I replaced it with a repro logo. - $17.95
2) Rattle-can painted dash and posts with Rustoleum Hammered Finish paint and clearcoated. - $14.95
3) Rattle-can painted scuttles, ebrake handle rings, interior trim rings on dash, shift & tach; and mirror caps chili red. The chrome trim on the boot is also chili red now. $19.95
4) Spotted cue ball shift **** - $6.95
#1003
First I purchased a 3 way remote so I can open my gate and garage.
Then I used the Command Strip brand Velcro attachments to attach the remote under the dash. Command strips are easy to remove with no residue.
#1005
Previous owner tried to fit our 5' wide mini into 4' 11 3/4" space, so had some nasty scratches and gouges in the wheel arch trim.
Spend 15 minutes with the random orbit sander to take out the scuff and gouges. Looked nice and smooth, but no longer black and less texture.
Masked off the wheels and body, and black PlastiDip to the rescue. NOTE: the dip will NOT reliably tear off at the join of the body and the trim, so after redoing one section, I slide a razor blade along in the crack to separate it, and then peeled the excess off the body.
Cost was elbow grease and a few feet of masking tape I already had, as well as a few coats of dip. No need to get heavy with it, as it's black on black, and the dip gives just the right texture. Will probably do all the trim eventually, since the unpainted is a bit lighter from the sun.
Spend 15 minutes with the random orbit sander to take out the scuff and gouges. Looked nice and smooth, but no longer black and less texture.
Masked off the wheels and body, and black PlastiDip to the rescue. NOTE: the dip will NOT reliably tear off at the join of the body and the trim, so after redoing one section, I slide a razor blade along in the crack to separate it, and then peeled the excess off the body.
Cost was elbow grease and a few feet of masking tape I already had, as well as a few coats of dip. No need to get heavy with it, as it's black on black, and the dip gives just the right texture. Will probably do all the trim eventually, since the unpainted is a bit lighter from the sun.
#1006
Pretty much any sign shop will have a load of scrap of all sorts of vinyl colours on any given day. They all have to get rid of it somehow.
Stop by your local store, strike up a conversation, sign guys are pretty decent people for the most part, about getting something done that you pay for.
Dollars to donuts, if you ask them to save you any scraps, you'll be welcomed back anytime to rummage through what they have. There's dozens of colours to choose from, in varying thicknesses, finishes and quality. Tip, the HIGH performance grade is good for 8-10 years outside, the intermediate grade about half that, and the Hi Po is the thinner stuff that you can work better around shapes, and it's less obvious. The difference is how it's made, giving better colour retention and a more stable (less shrink) product.
What makes this tip worthy of this thread is pay a little first, get free stuff evermore. Sign guys hear every day, 'if you give me a deal on this truck, I'll come back with three more' and you never see the guy again, and 3 other sign shops all heard the same BS. We'd much rather hear 'I'm spending some wedge now, maybe next time I can get a deal...' and if you have a 6 pack you leave behind...
Stop by your local store, strike up a conversation, sign guys are pretty decent people for the most part, about getting something done that you pay for.
Dollars to donuts, if you ask them to save you any scraps, you'll be welcomed back anytime to rummage through what they have. There's dozens of colours to choose from, in varying thicknesses, finishes and quality. Tip, the HIGH performance grade is good for 8-10 years outside, the intermediate grade about half that, and the Hi Po is the thinner stuff that you can work better around shapes, and it's less obvious. The difference is how it's made, giving better colour retention and a more stable (less shrink) product.
What makes this tip worthy of this thread is pay a little first, get free stuff evermore. Sign guys hear every day, 'if you give me a deal on this truck, I'll come back with three more' and you never see the guy again, and 3 other sign shops all heard the same BS. We'd much rather hear 'I'm spending some wedge now, maybe next time I can get a deal...' and if you have a 6 pack you leave behind...
#1008
Old School Stripes
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4068658
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4068658
#1010
[QUOTE=TWard;4071608]
Thanks . The r-53 dash is quite easy to remove, I think there were only 4 screws. I wrapped it with alcantara material and it took a bit of massaging to get the wrinkles out but it wasn't too hard.
#1011
[QUOTE=maxmini;4071661]
Did you use the original, brand-name Alcantara, or one of the imitations? If the latter, how do you like it and which did you use?
I've been toying with the idea of wrapping my A/B/C pillar trim in black alcantara, but it's pricey stuff.
I've been toying with the idea of wrapping my A/B/C pillar trim in black alcantara, but it's pricey stuff.
#1012
[QUOTE=bratling;4071724]
It was the real deal but it was given to me so I don't have the details . The shop I do my work on the mini does a lot of business with the upholstery shop and he hooked me up. I did the A/B/C with dry carbon wrap to match the rest of the car .
It was the real deal but it was given to me so I don't have the details . The shop I do my work on the mini does a lot of business with the upholstery shop and he hooked me up. I did the A/B/C with dry carbon wrap to match the rest of the car .
#1018
I did that once upon a time...real time consuming to do and only look great for a few weeks before they started to discolor...
Next time, I'm going old school like my first project car, 1991...stencil spray paint
GP license and lower trim blackout with R56 rear fogs...
"Supercharged" in R50 scuttle trim...
Next time, I'm going old school like my first project car, 1991...stencil spray paint
GP license and lower trim blackout with R56 rear fogs...
"Supercharged" in R50 scuttle trim...
#1024