R50/53 to rustproof or not to rustproof
#1
#6
#7
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#8
Bird,
The MINI, like most modern cars, is thoroughly rust-proofed from the factory. The bare metal MINI chassis is completely submerged in a conversion/protective coating/plating (see the cool assembly line video on the MINI USA site) prior to paint and assembly. The paint is electrostatically applied helping it into all the nooks and crannies that remained bare in older cars. And finally, after painting and during assembly, protective wax is applied to critical areas to seal and protect.
Add-on rust proofing is bad for the following reasons:
1. If it's thick enough to do any good, it adds unnecessary weight to the car.
2. It's sprayed on everything on the underside of the car; making fasteners difficult to remove for service or repair operations, sealing body vent/drain holes that shouldn't be filled, causing a stink when overspray on exhaust components burns off, etc., etc.
3. If the surface of the add-on coating ever gets broken, like at a rock chip or during the previously mentioned service/repair work, it creates a place where salty water can infiltrate and become trapped against the body, sheltered from washing/rinsing/evaporation, thereby increasing the likelihood of a rust problem.
4. It's usually grossly overpriced like all the other dealer add-ons which provide the dealers high-margin profit avenues in a low-margin business.
The best rust-proofing for a winter driver in the winter salt regions is simple, consistant care. During the salt months, frequent fresh water rinses of the underside are key; paying particular attention to wheelwells and area subject to water thrown off the tires. Find a good winter car wash that does this as part of a regular car wash.
Then, a couple time a year, its also key to check the drain holes in the door and fender bottoms. I don't know exactly where these are on the MINI as I don't have mine yet, but if you lay on the ground and look up at the underside of the doors, you will see small holes leading to the inside of the door carcass; similarly on the fenders. These holes allow trapped water to drain out. This water gets in the doors from around the glass or hinges, and in the fenders when thrown from the tires. Standing salt water is your enemy and these holes do occasionally get plugged with debris or ice.
Hope this helps some. Best of luck to you.
James
The MINI, like most modern cars, is thoroughly rust-proofed from the factory. The bare metal MINI chassis is completely submerged in a conversion/protective coating/plating (see the cool assembly line video on the MINI USA site) prior to paint and assembly. The paint is electrostatically applied helping it into all the nooks and crannies that remained bare in older cars. And finally, after painting and during assembly, protective wax is applied to critical areas to seal and protect.
Add-on rust proofing is bad for the following reasons:
1. If it's thick enough to do any good, it adds unnecessary weight to the car.
2. It's sprayed on everything on the underside of the car; making fasteners difficult to remove for service or repair operations, sealing body vent/drain holes that shouldn't be filled, causing a stink when overspray on exhaust components burns off, etc., etc.
3. If the surface of the add-on coating ever gets broken, like at a rock chip or during the previously mentioned service/repair work, it creates a place where salty water can infiltrate and become trapped against the body, sheltered from washing/rinsing/evaporation, thereby increasing the likelihood of a rust problem.
4. It's usually grossly overpriced like all the other dealer add-ons which provide the dealers high-margin profit avenues in a low-margin business.
The best rust-proofing for a winter driver in the winter salt regions is simple, consistant care. During the salt months, frequent fresh water rinses of the underside are key; paying particular attention to wheelwells and area subject to water thrown off the tires. Find a good winter car wash that does this as part of a regular car wash.
Then, a couple time a year, its also key to check the drain holes in the door and fender bottoms. I don't know exactly where these are on the MINI as I don't have mine yet, but if you lay on the ground and look up at the underside of the doors, you will see small holes leading to the inside of the door carcass; similarly on the fenders. These holes allow trapped water to drain out. This water gets in the doors from around the glass or hinges, and in the fenders when thrown from the tires. Standing salt water is your enemy and these holes do occasionally get plugged with debris or ice.
Hope this helps some. Best of luck to you.
James
#9
#10
>>So in Hawaii do you do rustproofing? A rust through warranty is worthless. It takes quite a lot to go all the way through.
No extra rust proofing necessary for the MINI in Hawaii.
As SouthSeaSadie stated, the MINI already comes with a waranty against rust and corrosion perforation.
If you still feel the need to be "rust-free" for 10 years, maybe get rust proofing done say, around 5th or 6th year of owning MINI.
Just my .02
Hand Loose and Motor On!!!
No extra rust proofing necessary for the MINI in Hawaii.
As SouthSeaSadie stated, the MINI already comes with a waranty against rust and corrosion perforation.
If you still feel the need to be "rust-free" for 10 years, maybe get rust proofing done say, around 5th or 6th year of owning MINI.
Just my .02
Hand Loose and Motor On!!!
#11
To protect or not to protect.If you do, you invalidate the body perforation warranty. and if after a time your body shows signs of rust you will have a an argument with the manufacturer to make a claim and you will wait and see if rust is going to appear anywhere else in the future. 30 years ago I "Ziebrated" my Mini and I still drove it every day until 2 weeks ago (when I got my new Cooper) So if you intend to keep your car longer than 10 years rustproof it. :smile:
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