I'm totally new to the mini scene, but have been wanting to get a 2nd car that is small/efficient/fun to drive compared to my truck. I've been looking at the mini convertibles and would like to get some advice on things that I should look for or avoid when purchasing a used mini. I was thinking of getting btwn a 2005-2008 model w/ maybe 65k-75k miles. I have heard that mini's and be expensive to maintain and you need to be on top of the maintenance. Is this true and can a lot of it be done yourself (I consider myself fairly handy and read a oil change can cost $90 which I think seems overpriced. I have always changed my own oil.)? I read that there are a few other places that specialize in mini repairs other than the large dealerships, which are apparently more affordable. I just don't want to get into something that has a lot of issues and cost a bunch to maintain. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

when figuring out if it makes $$ sense, just figure that you need 90 octane fuel or better..so 1 point above the typical mid-range...so premium fuel....running my S that gets 28-30 driven nicely on the highway costs a similar amount to buy fuel for as my wife's AWD Highlander that does low 20's and uses 87 octane.....a "just-a-cooper", NON S, no SUPERCHARGER, will do better in MPG, but the fuel is still midrange...failure to do so can cost a valve job....
If you are handy, Many things can be done...but some things, like a $2000 ish clutch job is a bit too involved for a typical DIY'er....parts are pricey..aftermarket is an option...but labor is the main thing...a MINI centric shop that does work on these cars can save big $$ IF thye know their stuff!!
The MINI is a blast to drive...and the age range you are looking at is IMO a sweet spot for value.
IMO 99% of finding a reliable MINI is finding a good one to buy....many have been used hard, and or miss matained.
My car has been utterly reliable...a few minor items, but a blast to tinker with....but I HAVE owned the car since new, and generally drive it in a normal, safe way, with the occasional smile inducing burst of power/speed or twisty road to make me love it more.
IMO, if you can find a good, one owner MINI cabrio, with a good top (some do have wear issues), you are 50% on the way to get what you want. the next step is a good prebuy inspection, and a quick look to ensure it has been driven by an adult who does not wail on it too much.....
to be honest, ANY car will break if you wail on it...going to redline again and again...and SOME mini's do get treated this way....

 

Compared to my truck I get 15mpg and I don't really drive it very hard. I've read somewhere that the non-s can run on 89 octane, is that true w/ no issues. Is that true? In regards to the prebuy inspection, would you just take it to the mini dealer and have them look at it.

 

Folks do run 89....they also get misfire codes, cylinder 1, which usually indicates a burnt exaust valve....is the risk vs $$ worth it...not sure when a fill up costs less than$2 more with 92/93. The 2007 hardtop, 2009+ cabrio is a different motor, so be careful in what you read, and the late changeover of the cabrio does cause some confusion, even amoung the shops, and some owners....
A dealer might be good, or a GOOD independent, mini centric shop...it is likly they will find a few minor things to give you wiggle room on the price...there wre some rubber bushings that dryout, that folks usually replace with plolyurathane, but the coopers tend to be pretty solid if they have been run on the right fuel, and had basic mx done, like raditor fluid changes to protect the headgasket.....
The late gen1 cars(the ones you are looking at) had most of the issues of earlier cars fixed/solved, but do have some year specfic unique items....due to federal rules the 2007+ cars (i think by production date, not model year) had to have a psi based tppms, rather than the rotation based, using the abs, tppms, so their sensors in the rims sre unique to gen1 cars, etc. But the 2005+ gen1 cars are much sought after for their steering feel..they are a true drivers car, the newer gen2 is much more plush....performance is similar, but not tye same ralley car feel. The cabrio are less likly to have been tracked, both due to some auto-x rules, where some places need roll cages, and their higher weight.
If you want a cabrio, go for it, just know as a premium small car, it is NOT an economy car, but imo, the sheer pleasure of driving it amazing. Another advantage of the 2005+ cooper over older coopers is they changed manual gearboxes to a good relibable getreg 5 speed (in place of a unrelible midlands 5 speed), the s has always has a good unit from the same maker in a 6 speed

 

Hey' Zippy,
We're neighbors, where in your opinion is good local service?

 

On my trip to Florida I was getting 33.1mpg on the highway using 93 octane doing 75mph with cruise.

 

We have an 07 R52 and an 08 R56 both are non S. we took her car yesterday to KC for some warranty repairs. I filled it with 93 no e a few days before we left. Drive 340 miles and got 33.1 on the computer. Worked out to 32.4 on calc. Now to try to explain the differences in the cars is hard but- the R52 feels completely different from theR56. I like em both but the Cabrio feels more connected to the road , hard to explain but it's quite a scooter. The only problem I have with it is no 6th gear on the highway. Rpm's are 4-5 hundred higher at 75 than mine. Try to find low mileage and get extended warranty if you can. Good luck!

 

For non DIY stuff i go down to Greasysgarage down in mass....worchester...that auto spell correct is driving me nutz...but you know whete i mean...about an hour from hausha/hudson area....well worth the drive, and a big $$ savings compared to dealers and most any bmw shop that will work on a mini!! About 50% of the work they do on cars are mini's, and they know them forwards and backwards!!
3d auto in hudson apparently does work on mini's, but as a bmw shop, their $$ are much higher, and i have had such good luck ar Greasysgarage, why do anything different. They do stock pleanty of mini parts, and even keep a spare head, s, and non s in stock, and have connections for other stuff, both dealers and non to try to get you in and out fast.

 

If you compared a 2005 and 2008 in terms of reliability is there any difference? I'm looking 2 non-s models w/ comparable miles and condition and not sure if one is better than the other. The one consideration is the 2008 has a top that's 3yrs newer so that has to play a factor. Is there a typical lifespan of the top?

 

The tops on these are well engineered, but complicated and fixes typically call for the whole thing to be replaced. I know someone who has had his top replaced at least once. I had a 2009 cabrio and never had serious problems, other than wear marks at the joints and some body flex.

 

I think the tops life will depend on number of uses/care...
DO look for wear at any chafe/rub point from it folding...
drive them both...very different cars.
the non s in both gens are very relibable cars...less highstrug, less likly to be youth or trying to recapture their youth driven...lol...nwer motor is a bit more hightech, tends to get better mpg, but did have some issues on some 2007-2008 cars with timing chain wear...made a first startup of the day sound...and the lash from the extra length would pretty much destroy much of the motor if ignored. Most were affected motors were fixed under recall, or checked...manufacturing tolerances simply made some chains/motors have issues...run low on oil...and it can make it happen.....go figure, gen2 motors are a pugot/bmw joint venture....but like i said, both FEEL very different...the gen1 steering and feel more of a drivers car, the gen2, more insulated to appeal to soccor moms.....

 

On my 07, the manual says when you open the truck lid you can release the two catches then fold the top up for easier access. However, ever time I try this the top will start to fold a couple inches then stops. I cannot see what it is hitting, so was wondering if the hinges are made to catch like that and need a little more pressure (don't want to force it too much)? Or is it suppose to be a smooth process? How far is the top supposed to fold up?
Thanks

 

In my opinion it doesn't fold up anywhere near enough , more than likely you are at the end. you can lower the levers and rest them on a catch to hold it up. As far as I know, that's all you get!

 

Thanks Slugger, no more than it goes up (if that is all it goes up) seems pretty worthless or more trouble than extra room available.