R52 Water Not Beading on Soft-Top
#1
Water Not Beading on Soft-Top
To those in the know......
It has been a wet and dreary month in NJ since I took delivery of TANG, my HO MCSC.
When I first got the vehicle, the top would bead water when it was exposed to snow and/or rain.
I even went the extra step when I first took delivery, and the top was nice n' clean, of brushing it off and giving it a "once over" with some 303 Aerospace Soft Top Protectant.
The water would bead MORE on the TOP than it would on the back (surrounding the rear window), but now it doesn't bead ANYWHERE.
Is this something that should be of concern? I wipe the water off after I roll into my Garage, just to be safe than sorry, but does this mean that the water-proofing "protection" (factory or otherwise) is already worn off??
Thanks in Advance......
-B
It has been a wet and dreary month in NJ since I took delivery of TANG, my HO MCSC.
When I first got the vehicle, the top would bead water when it was exposed to snow and/or rain.
I even went the extra step when I first took delivery, and the top was nice n' clean, of brushing it off and giving it a "once over" with some 303 Aerospace Soft Top Protectant.
The water would bead MORE on the TOP than it would on the back (surrounding the rear window), but now it doesn't bead ANYWHERE.
Is this something that should be of concern? I wipe the water off after I roll into my Garage, just to be safe than sorry, but does this mean that the water-proofing "protection" (factory or otherwise) is already worn off??
Thanks in Advance......
-B
#2
The water repellency of the top actually has NOTHING to do with the "waterproof" sealing of the roof. The roof has a sealed rubberized layer in the "sandwich" - and that's the part that keeps the water out (unlike old canvas ragtops...) - so from a "waterproof" perspective, you're still OK.
I 303'd my top WELL the week after I took delivery in October. 2 or 3 heavy coats sprayed on, with dry time in the sun between each coat. I had to do that because (duh) I washed the car and used car soap to wash the top, like I used to on my Sebring, and it killed the water repellancy... you haven't washed your top, have you? I now know not to use any soap on the top - just water, and it rinses clean. I have used the wash mitt with soap on my rear window - and that's killed the repellancy below the rear window - I don't do that anymore, either - now I use Clarity to clean the window when I'm done washing / drying.
My car is garaged and hasn't seen any snow/ice this winter - but the top still beads water like crazy five months after my last 303 treatment... I use a jellyblade to dry off the top when I wash, but I try to to "rub" or "wipe" the top otherwise because I think this can reduce repellancy...
But, again, from a waterproofing perspective, it really doesn't matter if the water beads or not. The real benefit of the 303 is fade and stain resistance and UV protection, IMHO. But if it isn't beading, it probably needs another cleaning (with the 303 cleaner) and another treatment (multi-coat, with sun drying...)
Hope that helps.
I 303'd my top WELL the week after I took delivery in October. 2 or 3 heavy coats sprayed on, with dry time in the sun between each coat. I had to do that because (duh) I washed the car and used car soap to wash the top, like I used to on my Sebring, and it killed the water repellancy... you haven't washed your top, have you? I now know not to use any soap on the top - just water, and it rinses clean. I have used the wash mitt with soap on my rear window - and that's killed the repellancy below the rear window - I don't do that anymore, either - now I use Clarity to clean the window when I'm done washing / drying.
My car is garaged and hasn't seen any snow/ice this winter - but the top still beads water like crazy five months after my last 303 treatment... I use a jellyblade to dry off the top when I wash, but I try to to "rub" or "wipe" the top otherwise because I think this can reduce repellancy...
But, again, from a waterproofing perspective, it really doesn't matter if the water beads or not. The real benefit of the 303 is fade and stain resistance and UV protection, IMHO. But if it isn't beading, it probably needs another cleaning (with the 303 cleaner) and another treatment (multi-coat, with sun drying...)
Hope that helps.
#3
Got it, much appreciated.....
I think that I need to give it a cleaning and THEN another 303 coat.
I haven't washed it with soap, but I am pretty sure it got ALOT of salty water on it since the two snows it has been through (they salt the roads here like they are preserving meat for the lean seasons....)
-B
I think that I need to give it a cleaning and THEN another 303 coat.
I haven't washed it with soap, but I am pretty sure it got ALOT of salty water on it since the two snows it has been through (they salt the roads here like they are preserving meat for the lean seasons....)
-B
#5
Another tip - COMPLETELY mask off the rest of the car when spraying 303 or other treatment on the top... because it will REALLY make a mess of your paint and glass and basically require a wash/wax cycle to correct if it gets on your paint... best way to do this is with some old bed sheets, actually open the top, drape sheets over the windshield, windows, bonnet and doors, get in the car and close the top completely, sealing the sheet in where the top seals... then get out and do the same with the boot, and use painters tape to hold the sheets around the other areas that you can't hold with the top, windows or tailgate...
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