R55 Who has the most miles on the Clubman, and how are they holding up?
#301
4th Gear
iTrader: (1)
At seven years and 72000miles I have my first oil leak from the head gasket. I also had a flashlight shine on my serpentine drive belt, and ... yikes! Almost broken into smaller pieces. I have scheduled its replacement for the coming week.
Folks, check the drive belt.
It's on the starboard side (US passenger side), low down, far left as you hang over the open hood.
Folks, check the drive belt.
It's on the starboard side (US passenger side), low down, far left as you hang over the open hood.
#302
Almost 5 Years
Calvin, a PW/B basic Clubman, is my second MINI. The first, a SG/B basic MC named JoeGreen, came to our garage 31 Jan 03. We have MINI experience!!
Calvin is running like a top ... now. Manual tran is working well. Clutch is in good shape (knock wood ... my first MINI's clutch lasted until 150K). This Clubbie has 98,879 miles today as I average a bit over 20K per year and always have for years.
I just replaced OEM Conti-ProContacts again for the 3rd time at 90K. I regularly - 20K - align the wheels but I have not rotated the tires. We have a lot of speed bumps and pot holes here. I'm not happy with 30K tire wear but it's a lot better than the experience I had with the first MINI.
I do oil changes with MINI oil at 10K at a local extremely talented garage. They check over everything including codes during the oil service. I give them a lot of credit for this vehicle's superb maintenance.
But, I have been to the dealer a few times since the end of warranty, too. Most recently, severe engine performance problem with codes indicating inlet adjustment and solenoid issues. On the first trip to Charleston MINI, the inlet adj was replaced. At the same time, oil change and the original battery was replaced (80K). However, I had to make a second trip at 2K later to replace the solenoids. They claimed they were going by 'the codes.' The service advisor suggested that I had used 'bad' oil which caused the problems. I confirmed that only MINI parts and supplies have been used including the higher prices. Not Happy!
Given the significant reports of timing probs with the S, I'm still apprehensive about where Calvin will end up in this topic. Hence, we have started looking at other brands with better reliability. To me that means that major parts don't go bad too soon and cause a surprize regardless of consistent, high quality maintenance.
Before warranty ran out, the dealer replaced the water pump because the housing was cracked (35K) and I made 2 trips to replace both sides of the fuel system because the gauge stopped working correctly (48K). I thought about trading then but I've stuck with it because I love driving, sitting in, hauling things around in the Clubman.
Frankly, even though I've driven the 'new' MINIs, I'm not convinced they wouldn't have the same odd problems. And, I don't like the pricing scheme. Several other brands are putting the options on their vehicles as standard items for a lower price. Maybe I'm not so interested in German technology anymore.
Calvin is running like a top ... now. Manual tran is working well. Clutch is in good shape (knock wood ... my first MINI's clutch lasted until 150K). This Clubbie has 98,879 miles today as I average a bit over 20K per year and always have for years.
I just replaced OEM Conti-ProContacts again for the 3rd time at 90K. I regularly - 20K - align the wheels but I have not rotated the tires. We have a lot of speed bumps and pot holes here. I'm not happy with 30K tire wear but it's a lot better than the experience I had with the first MINI.
I do oil changes with MINI oil at 10K at a local extremely talented garage. They check over everything including codes during the oil service. I give them a lot of credit for this vehicle's superb maintenance.
But, I have been to the dealer a few times since the end of warranty, too. Most recently, severe engine performance problem with codes indicating inlet adjustment and solenoid issues. On the first trip to Charleston MINI, the inlet adj was replaced. At the same time, oil change and the original battery was replaced (80K). However, I had to make a second trip at 2K later to replace the solenoids. They claimed they were going by 'the codes.' The service advisor suggested that I had used 'bad' oil which caused the problems. I confirmed that only MINI parts and supplies have been used including the higher prices. Not Happy!
Given the significant reports of timing probs with the S, I'm still apprehensive about where Calvin will end up in this topic. Hence, we have started looking at other brands with better reliability. To me that means that major parts don't go bad too soon and cause a surprize regardless of consistent, high quality maintenance.
Before warranty ran out, the dealer replaced the water pump because the housing was cracked (35K) and I made 2 trips to replace both sides of the fuel system because the gauge stopped working correctly (48K). I thought about trading then but I've stuck with it because I love driving, sitting in, hauling things around in the Clubman.
Frankly, even though I've driven the 'new' MINIs, I'm not convinced they wouldn't have the same odd problems. And, I don't like the pricing scheme. Several other brands are putting the options on their vehicles as standard items for a lower price. Maybe I'm not so interested in German technology anymore.
#305
What year?
What have you replaced?
Original engine?
Issues?
Any other good information.
And thanks.
#306
Edit: 2008 Justa N12
#307
#308
My 2009 Clubman S has 166,000 km, (103,000 miles). I've had him 3 years, second owner. A few issues starting to creep up. Replaced shocks from Sport to Koni FSW last month. Just had HPFP replaced under warranty. Now,I've lost tail/brake lights. Still, no car payment, fun to drive. I may keep him until he gives up the ghost
#309
4th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Well, we Justa N 12 folks can look forward to being the tortoise to the turbo hares. I've always appreciated the fun of the N 14 or 18 engines, but have winced at the delicacy of the components. You R 56 turbo owners must replace those chains and vacuum pumps, and drive (serpentine) belts if you want to go the distance.
I have already replaced my timing chain in my Justa at 75,000 miles since it was beyond spec, even with a new tensioner bolt back at 60,000. I am heartened to see this Pelle make it to 250,000, but wish we could have seen that new timing chain go in :-(
My Justa will be 8 years old in February, has about 85,000 miles and faces its greatest enemy in rust. My subframe has plenty of corrosion from all the salt up here in the north, despite my frequent spraying at the pressure wash around the corner.
I need to find a shop that can remove the rust and coat the critical parts...
I have already replaced my timing chain in my Justa at 75,000 miles since it was beyond spec, even with a new tensioner bolt back at 60,000. I am heartened to see this Pelle make it to 250,000, but wish we could have seen that new timing chain go in :-(
My Justa will be 8 years old in February, has about 85,000 miles and faces its greatest enemy in rust. My subframe has plenty of corrosion from all the salt up here in the north, despite my frequent spraying at the pressure wash around the corner.
I need to find a shop that can remove the rust and coat the critical parts...
#310
128000 Miles
I have a little over 128,000 miles on my 2010 Clubman S. Purchased it used with about 60k a little over 2yrs ago. I decided to purchase an after market warranty, thankfully. I am in sales and travel alot, so I knew the 36000 mile warranty would only last a little over a year. I had the car for about a month before "normal" maintenance issues began. Brakes, new catalytic converter. About a year later around 97k, timing tensioner goes. Catastrophic failure. Thank God I still had the warranty. I only had about a thousand miles left. I was only out of pocket about $500 for the cost of walnut treatment on existing valves which were not replaced. Rest of the work was about $5,000. Brakes again for the front around 110k. Still love to drive her, but she is a high maintenance girl to say the least. Quite pricy, especially through the dealer.
#312
#313
I'm a small fry.
2011 Clubman S
Bought in 2013 w/ 21k
Currently at 42k.
Had clutch replaced under Maintenance plan before it expired (thank you Morristown Mini). Also had a small oil leak from a oil pressure sesor fixed under warranty. Nothing big since then. Hoping my N18 engine holds up well. I change the oil every 6k miles or 6 months. She also gets 2 track days a year.
2011 Clubman S
Bought in 2013 w/ 21k
Currently at 42k.
Had clutch replaced under Maintenance plan before it expired (thank you Morristown Mini). Also had a small oil leak from a oil pressure sesor fixed under warranty. Nothing big since then. Hoping my N18 engine holds up well. I change the oil every 6k miles or 6 months. She also gets 2 track days a year.
#314
Well done,
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#315
#317
Only 16k original miles? Got any pictures for us?
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#318
Hi,
Any updates for "Justa" clubbys? Especially interested in 2011-> N16 as mine is a 2012. Purchased mini in June 2015 at 13,500 miles, 18,300 on it now. Only oil changes, tires (just swapped Conti pro contact SSR with Nokian WRG3 non-runflat), after market seat heaters, LED driving lights, and MINI roof rack.
Any updates for "Justa" clubbys? Especially interested in 2011-> N16 as mine is a 2012. Purchased mini in June 2015 at 13,500 miles, 18,300 on it now. Only oil changes, tires (just swapped Conti pro contact SSR with Nokian WRG3 non-runflat), after market seat heaters, LED driving lights, and MINI roof rack.
#319
2010 Base Clubman six speed manual
Well hello to all, I have 114K on the clock on my Mini. I do all of my own wrenching. So far as of right now I replaced the timing chain at 90k for a preventative measure with an upgraded chain tensioner. This week I was disappointed when I had a coolant disaster, I lost the thermostat assy., (warning DTC check engine light came on and off for a week) which btw came out broken. So I went ahead and replaced the thermostat, and found the coolant cross over pipe "O" ring blew out right in the driveway and all the coolant drained down, and after getting and eye on the water pump and cross over pipe, (all the plastic versions). I found I need to replace the cross over tube, the water pump and thermostat all at the same time. It seems the "plastic" parts do not hold up or fare well to the test of time. I drive long distances to and from work. 104 miles a day minimum, So there you have it. No other issues except the hands free stinks big time But I do love this car and I vow I will keep driving this Mini as long as it lets me. I will need help on how to get the cross over pipe out of the engine. It does seem loose. Do I need to remove the intake to get to it?
#320
More info here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ater-tube.html
The tube can be hard to get off at the water pump side and the end can crumble on the plastic. Its easier with the the intake out , then reach under the manifold, of course the thermostat will have to be out.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ater-tube.html
The tube can be hard to get off at the water pump side and the end can crumble on the plastic. Its easier with the the intake out , then reach under the manifold, of course the thermostat will have to be out.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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#321
Well hello to all, I have 114K on the clock on my Mini. I do all of my own wrenching. So far as of right now I replaced the timing chain at 90k for a preventative measure with an upgraded chain tensioner. This week I was disappointed when I had a coolant disaster, I lost the thermostat assy., (warning DTC check engine light came on and off for a week) which btw came out broken. So I went ahead and replaced the thermostat, and found the coolant cross over pipe "O" ring blew out right in the driveway and all the coolant drained down, and after getting and eye on the water pump and cross over pipe, (all the plastic versions). I found I need to replace the cross over tube, the water pump and thermostat all at the same time. It seems the "plastic" parts do not hold up or fare well to the test of time. I drive long distances to and from work. 104 miles a day minimum, So there you have it. No other issues except the hands free stinks big time But I do love this car and I vow I will keep driving this Mini as long as it lets me. I will need help on how to get the cross over pipe out of the engine. It does seem loose. Do I need to remove the intake to get to it?
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#323
Robert Pritchard
Its linked in our thread above.
Its linked in our thread above.
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#324
I already have the new metal pump, a new thermostat and I ordered the tube with the o ring from Minimania already. I figured it would be best to change out the tube, O ring and clip at this point. Basically Just needed to know if I needed to pull the intake and should I replace the gaskets on it too?
#325
Top intake yes, main intake manifold no , you can work around it.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172