R55 Replacement windshield
#1
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Virginia
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Replacement windshield
Few months ago a rock hit the base of my windshield and a crack developed running horizontally along the lower half. The state inspection is due this month and I must get it replaced. My insurance does not cover it.
The last one I replaced was 2 MINIs ago. I will be getting some estimates, but what did it cost for those of you who have had one replaced recently? Advice, brands to avoid, etc? Thanks in advance!
The last one I replaced was 2 MINIs ago. I will be getting some estimates, but what did it cost for those of you who have had one replaced recently? Advice, brands to avoid, etc? Thanks in advance!
#2
I have the same crack, but its at the top of my windshield in a reverse L with about 3 inches each way. I spoke to several companies and I believe Safelite quoted 350 and the others averaged 250 with the lowest being 225.
Safelight later called after a couple of days with a lower price of I think 250?
I'm not sure how the quality stacks up with OEM, but i'm sure it's not much worse. Also.. I doubt insurance is going to pay the 1,200 cost minus deduct.
-J
Safelight later called after a couple of days with a lower price of I think 250?
I'm not sure how the quality stacks up with OEM, but i'm sure it's not much worse. Also.. I doubt insurance is going to pay the 1,200 cost minus deduct.
-J
#4
What good does this do the OP. He already states his insurance will not cover it.
My insurance company paid alittle over $400 for the new window i had last year and knowing they actually pay more than I would, i suspect you are looking in the $250-$300 range.
My insurance company paid alittle over $400 for the new window i had last year and knowing they actually pay more than I would, i suspect you are looking in the $250-$300 range.
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#9
I had the same problem w/ the car i had before my MINI--a 2001 Civic. I guess I never paid it any mind, as that was the last of my "mechanical" worries at the time (165k miles). Nonetheless, my Polarized sunglasses seemed to help w/ the glare a little. Hope that helps!
#10
Lowest quote I got was $250 and highest was $375. That should give you an idea.
One guy who gave me the higher quote said he had to replace a top trim seal? Anyone know the truth to that? In that case, I can buy the part myself and it would be cheaper. On RealOEM it shows 51317155304 as a part number in conjunction with any windshield. Its labeled as "1" and should be about $16 at the dealer. (Sorry not trying to jack the thread, thought it would be relevant for you too). I also see "Rubber Buffers, 51311925433" listed in the glazing towards the front windshield with the quantity of 3, anyone know if this is needed too?
One guy who gave me the higher quote said he had to replace a top trim seal? Anyone know the truth to that? In that case, I can buy the part myself and it would be cheaper. On RealOEM it shows 51317155304 as a part number in conjunction with any windshield. Its labeled as "1" and should be about $16 at the dealer. (Sorry not trying to jack the thread, thought it would be relevant for you too). I also see "Rubber Buffers, 51311925433" listed in the glazing towards the front windshield with the quantity of 3, anyone know if this is needed too?
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polish glass to get the pits out? I tried to find glass polish like you described with no luck , can you steer me to some?
#15
Here's a link to some good products. http://autogeek.commerce-search.net/...y=glass+polish
#16
To the OP, not sure what insurance you have, but this is the first time I have ever heard of not having windshield replacement coverage, especially if you still have a loan on the car and have comp and collision. I have had every windshield on all my old cars replaced, some 2 or 3 times and it has cost me nothing. Because it is a safety thing (being able to see and all that) I am not even sure my insurance peeps (allstate) give me an option not to have it.
May want to look again. On the Mini it aint cheap I hear, and you want it done right.
May want to look again. On the Mini it aint cheap I hear, and you want it done right.
#17
Large pits, no, but the "sandblasted" effect can very effectively polished out. I use 3M polishing compound which is a fairly aggressive polish. Griot's, Autoglym, Diamond Fast, and Diamondite all have glass specific polishing compounds.
Here's a link to some good products. http://autogeek.commerce-search.net/...y=glass+polish
Here's a link to some good products. http://autogeek.commerce-search.net/...y=glass+polish
#18
Large pits, no, but the "sandblasted" effect can very effectively polished out. I use 3M polishing compound which is a fairly aggressive polish. Griot's, Autoglym, Diamond Fast, and Diamondite all have glass specific polishing compounds.
Here's a link to some good products. http://autogeek.commerce-search.net/...y=glass+polish
Here's a link to some good products. http://autogeek.commerce-search.net/...y=glass+polish
Funny this came up. Not to get too far off topic, but along those lines...
When I bought my R55, i hadn't noticed when I took delivery, but the car had been "blasted" with clearcoat overspray from a nearby spray booth. I didn't notice until I was driving the car home (AZ to NV) and the sun was setting right in front of me and made the glass look terrible. After inspection I noticed much of the front/roof/doors of the car were covered in it as well.
So I went to a professional detailer supply shop and asked what their recommended way of getting rid of it was. His advice was claybar or fine grit steel wool. I had a consumer level claybar kit at home, but he recommended an aggressive clay kit. So I picked up an aggressive clay kit, some professional grade detailer spray, and some steel wool from Lowes.
NOTE STEEL WOOL ONLY FOR GLASS, NOT BODYWORK!
The steel wool wasn't very effective. In all honesty if probably knocked off the larger "pieces", but it wasn't very noticeable. The aggressive clay bar though was extremely effective. Just spray the detailer, lightly clay the spot until the overspray comes off, then kneed the bar and repeat. Worked wonders on my windshield and the bodywork as well.
The polish sounds like a very similar solution, though I would suspect you need an electric polisher for it to be really effective?
-z
#20
http://www.diamondite.com/diamondite...ing-creme.html
Funny this came up. Not to get too far off topic, but along those lines...
When I bought my R55, i hadn't noticed when I took delivery, but the car had been "blasted" with clearcoat overspray from a nearby spray booth. I didn't notice until I was driving the car home (AZ to NV) and the sun was setting right in front of me and made the glass look terrible. After inspection I noticed much of the front/roof/doors of the car were covered in it as well.
So I went to a professional detailer supply shop and asked what their recommended way of getting rid of it was. His advice was claybar or fine grit steel wool. I had a consumer level claybar kit at home, but he recommended an aggressive clay kit. So I picked up an aggressive clay kit, some professional grade detailer spray, and some steel wool from Lowes.
NOTE STEEL WOOL ONLY FOR GLASS, NOT BODYWORK!
The steel wool wasn't very effective. In all honesty if probably knocked off the larger "pieces", but it wasn't very noticeable. The aggressive clay bar though was extremely effective. Just spray the detailer, lightly clay the spot until the overspray comes off, then kneed the bar and repeat. Worked wonders on my windshield and the bodywork as well.
The polish sounds like a very similar solution, though I would suspect you need an electric polisher for it to be really effective?
-z
When I bought my R55, i hadn't noticed when I took delivery, but the car had been "blasted" with clearcoat overspray from a nearby spray booth. I didn't notice until I was driving the car home (AZ to NV) and the sun was setting right in front of me and made the glass look terrible. After inspection I noticed much of the front/roof/doors of the car were covered in it as well.
So I went to a professional detailer supply shop and asked what their recommended way of getting rid of it was. His advice was claybar or fine grit steel wool. I had a consumer level claybar kit at home, but he recommended an aggressive clay kit. So I picked up an aggressive clay kit, some professional grade detailer spray, and some steel wool from Lowes.
NOTE STEEL WOOL ONLY FOR GLASS, NOT BODYWORK!
The steel wool wasn't very effective. In all honesty if probably knocked off the larger "pieces", but it wasn't very noticeable. The aggressive clay bar though was extremely effective. Just spray the detailer, lightly clay the spot until the overspray comes off, then kneed the bar and repeat. Worked wonders on my windshield and the bodywork as well.
The polish sounds like a very similar solution, though I would suspect you need an electric polisher for it to be really effective?
-z
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