I bought my 2012 R55 from a salvage auction and rebuilt it. It was pretty much obliterated in the front right corner(I will post pictures). I was able to get everything fixed except the adaptive Headlights. Normally I wouldn’t really are if my lights turned when the steering wheel turned, but it puts up a warning light right where the digital speedometer is supposed to be. I can clear it by pushing the button on the end of the turn signal, but it comes right back after about five seconds. The original headlight was mostly gone into many little pieces everywhere, but the bulb and the two computer chip controller box things (technical term) on the bottom of the light were still in tact. The wire harness that connects to the light was messed up a little too. I bought a whole brand new headlight, and despite it costing about $700 it didn’t come with the Xenon bulb or those two control boxes. Everything works great except for movement parts. I will post pictures to show everything so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.
One other thing when I turn on the car the left headlight does it’s leveling check, but nothing on the right.

One of the auction photos

What was left of the right headlight

Another view after I removed the parts not included with the new headlight.

Bottom of the aluminum control box. Are those two pins supposed to be missing, or is that my problem?

Top info panel of aluminum control box.

Bottom of black plastic control box. Zoom in and see the white stuff around some of the components, I think it might be corrosion. Could that be my problem?

Top of black plastic control box.

 

This is the wire harness that plugs in to the headlight. Which wire/s control the adaptive and auto leveling? Could this be my problem?

 

Ooooh nice...i was eyeballing this one lol but my drive way is full...good deal.
When it comes to wiring l, you need to consider the actual module controlling the headlight unit. I'm referring to the FRM located behind drive kick panel. If the wires shorted due to the accident, the circuit could be damaged in the FRM. So, to test the theory, plug in the left headlight in place of the right and see if you still getting the same fault codes on the right. If so, you might have to replace the FRM module too.

Not sure where you bought that headlight, but $700 is waaay too much, imo. Here are some useful sites: realoem.com, newtis.info, car-part.com

 

I bought most of my parts from the cheapest place I could find which was Minipartsdirect which happens to be a Mini dealer in North Carolina. It was actually a little closer to $650, but it was brand new, and I thought it would’ve had everything in it, but it only had the turn signal bulb in it.
I haven’t tried the left one on the right, but I have put the the right one on the left and it still didn’t actuate the auto level on start-up like the left headlight does. I will try swapping it the other way around to see if it works that way.
So you’re my competition on Mini’s...are you the one that rose my bid all the way up to three grand? I wasn’t able to watch the auction so I just put $3k as a max bid ,like I had done many other times, only this time I actually won. This was my first time to do this, and I have learned a LOT!

 

No not this one. I never bid on it. I usually just watch to see what they bring for future reference. I try to stay away from body damaged minis since i don't have the equipment for it. If it is a fender bender i might entertain. But my main steak is minis with mechanical damage preferably clean title. My next favorite is chicken of the sea, flooded, specially fully loaded ones. I can use the options as a selling feature, like I'm going with the red clubman.

Right now I'm just waiting to sell some of my fleet :( before my next fish is listed....a 2016 paceman flooded from DC.

 

Yeah I thought it just needed some bolt on panels. I learned that I need to look at these in person before bidding, because I didn’t know about the slight crinkle in the crumple zone. But I did learn how Mini would have fixed it had it been brought to them, and I could’ve done it like they do with my 20 years of Airframes Mechanic experience on helicopters in the Marine Corps. A Mini dealerships body shop uses epoxy and rivets which is how aircraft are put together. But since I’m full time RVing now I just took it to a local shop in my hometown and they welded the new piece on.

 

Ok so I got the left headlight moved over and plugged into the right harness. It auto leveled just like it does on the left side, so I’m thinking it might be the control box on the light. Maybe that corrosion is the problem. I wish I could swap those boxes, but there’s a different part number for the left and right so I’m afraid I might mess something else up. Speaking of messing stuff up, after I got everything back where it was supposed to be I turned on the lights to make sure everything was working, minus the adaptive part, and when I shut the hood the right headlight went out So I checked the bulb and swapped it with the other side, and it worked fine. I’m guessing that messed up wiring harness must’ve ground out after moving it around and shutting the hood moved it to the shorting point, so I’m hoping that a fuse was blown. I will check the fuses tomorrow when I have some pliers to pull the fuses with. Fingers crossed 🤞

 

The 'white stuff' is corrosion on the board, you can try cleaner and in a pinch WD40. But the bottom right IC and the one on the left look like they might have over heated. You can try the old technician's sniff test. If they smell burnt I would suspect that part is bad.

The brown wire on that wiring harness also looks like it was pinched, if you can test it with a multimeter I would just to be sure, then wrap it in electrical tape in case it shorts out later.

 

I’m pretty sure that control box is bad, and since my light doesn’t work now and using the sniff test I’m pretty sure that the other box aka ballast is now bad too. All these pictures were taken back in January when I originally rebuilt the car, so I already tapped up those wires as best as I could back then. I do have a whole new connector to install. I haven’t installed the new connector yet due to the fact that I’ve never done one before, and electrical is not my strong suit. I have been studying on how to do the connector, and now that the light doesn’t work either I’m going to go ahead and replace it when I get back to my home base. I’m hoping that I can find those two control boxes ,used, for a decent price somewhere on my trip home. I am thinking about maybe getting a whole other wrecked car to get parts from which might be cheaper than buying those control boxes new. LOL

 

Yes it might be a lot cheaper to find the parts at a wrecker. Up here we have a couple of U-Pull lots where you can pull the parts you need and then pay at the counter. They even have an all you can pick day for a set fee but this is up here just outside of Toronto. But there might be places on your travels as well.

I've used these guys before, they are more expensive than the U-Pull places but in a pinch these guys seem to pull stock from a number of sites and a lot of auto body shops up here buy from them. https://www.lkqcorp.com/en-us/