R55 R55 Crank w/ no start with codes
#1
R55 Crank w/ no start with codes
I acquired s 2009 Mini Cooper Clubman s with a no start issue. I scanned with a Launch VX431 4. I have worked through most of the codes but I am still getting to know the r55. I can't get any feedback from the Zero Gear And I am getting implausible shut down time errors. I can understand why the car would not start with a faulty zero gear sensor but wouldn't that prevent it from cranking? I am also getting an occasional error for the starter. The symptoms are.
* Yellow Key (no slash) on display... Car recognized the key during scan as primary* Extended crank time (?) Up to 15 seconds (I am shutting down the start as it feels like it is running far too long)
* Problem with steering wheel controls (wipers will come on and no stop until ignition reset) I thought would be a future project after it is running.
* recent error with pedal position sensor but has not returned.
error codes present:
Engine:
2F8F DME: Engine shutdown Time, plausibility (current)
A/C E72B, E72C I noticed that the cabin air temp sensor is misreporting
Cleared codes or codes in previous scan before battery replacement and registration
A0B2 CAS Supply, Terminal 30E/30LA0B4 CAS Engine Start, Starter Operation
Idk if the codes just haven't returned or are actually resolved.
* Yellow Key (no slash) on display... Car recognized the key during scan as primary* Extended crank time (?) Up to 15 seconds (I am shutting down the start as it feels like it is running far too long)
* Problem with steering wheel controls (wipers will come on and no stop until ignition reset) I thought would be a future project after it is running.
* recent error with pedal position sensor but has not returned.
error codes present:
Engine:
2F8F DME: Engine shutdown Time, plausibility (current)
A/C E72B, E72C I noticed that the cabin air temp sensor is misreporting
Cleared codes or codes in previous scan before battery replacement and registration
A0B2 CAS Supply, Terminal 30E/30LA0B4 CAS Engine Start, Starter Operation
Idk if the codes just haven't returned or are actually resolved.
Last edited by GaPorras; 05-24-2021 at 09:30 AM. Reason: Posted wrong number of codes
#2
There are few things to consider before hoping for it to start. I know you mention working through the other codes but here are some pointers:
Mechanical:
1- compression check
2- timing check
3- fuel check
4- air pipes connected and sealed
electrical:
1- fuse box check for corrosion
2- rpm needle moving while cranking
3- reading fuel rail pressure
4- spark
5- ECU relay and fuses are good
what was the issue before you bought it. it is never too boring to know a little about the car history
Mechanical:
1- compression check
2- timing check
3- fuel check
4- air pipes connected and sealed
electrical:
1- fuse box check for corrosion
2- rpm needle moving while cranking
3- reading fuel rail pressure
4- spark
5- ECU relay and fuses are good
what was the issue before you bought it. it is never too boring to know a little about the car history
The following 2 users liked this post by MiniToBe:
bugeye1031 (06-26-2021),
Gennie (05-27-2021)
#4
Okay so now I understand the problem. The dreaded rattle of death apparently happened. The top timing guide broke but it does not seem that there was severe damage. The cams appear to be about two teeth part in timing. I've ordered a timing kit and all of the appropriate lockdown and crank tools. Can anybody tell me if in their experience two teeth would call for bent valves on this engine? I don't see any obvious bends but sometimes they are so hard to find. All of the rockers seem tight but that would only reveal a large bend.
I was thinking about resetting the timing on this using the old timing kit and do a quick compression test before I install the new kit. I can drain the pan and check for any debris before I do this. I just want to know if I should spend the time installing a new kit if I'm going to have to pull the head and send it to the machine shop. I was thinking that if the compression checks out then I would install the new timing kit. I would welcome any advice or observations.
I was thinking about resetting the timing on this using the old timing kit and do a quick compression test before I install the new kit. I can drain the pan and check for any debris before I do this. I just want to know if I should spend the time installing a new kit if I'm going to have to pull the head and send it to the machine shop. I was thinking that if the compression checks out then I would install the new timing kit. I would welcome any advice or observations.
#5
Fixed!
I did what I discussed doing. I found that my intake cam was off by two teeth. I locked my flywheel and my exhaust cam. That is how I found out how far off my intake cam was I loosened my tensioner enough to push away the chain, which was in good condition, and moved the cam by two teeth. The absence of the top timing guide gave enough slack to cause the jump in the first place when it failed. I checked everything for debris in the pan and in the engine and tighten the tensioner back which was only slacked off by a third of the way. Everything cranked up and ran beautifully and I continued to replace the rest of the kit.
The following users liked this post:
bugeye1031 (06-26-2021)
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