Hello,
I have a 2014 R55 Clubman that I'd like to replace the engine in. It has been blowing through oil which is normal from the looks of things

Instead or rebuilding it, I'd like drop a new one in. In addition, I'd like to get a tranny with the new engine that has an LSD already installed.

If you were in the market for this equipment, where would you go to purchase this?

TIA

 

Are you looking for a brand new engine or just another engine.

 

Well not sure....I am leaning toward brand new though the cost may outweigh a new one and perhaps a refurbed is in order?

 

It will cost you either way. Firstly, the new engine from the dealer will cost more than the whole car and it makes no sense at all. Secondly, the remanufatured engine will be still way too expensive (for example, the reman motor for R53 costs more than 5K USD).
The only viable option (IMO) is to rebuild the motor you have, especially, if the block, crankshaft and head are in good shape (sure, you need to disassemble the motor to figure this out).
The "other motor", the used one might end up to be in worse shape than your current one and it still will cost you (again, on R53 motor - used engines sell in the range 1.2K - 2.5K with little to no warranty).
Or, just buy a another car.

 

My goal is the following:
* Stage 2 or 3
* LSD

I thought that before I spend on the mods I should have an engine that not leaking/burning oil. This led me to the following options:
* Rebuild the current engine
* Install a reman'd engine with Tranny that has the LSD in it already.
* Install a new engine with the LSD already in the Tranny.

If moving to Stage 2 or 3, do you feel that an LSD is needed for taking off from a stop? What about tork steer...? Will I get a lot of this without an LSD?

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

If getting a reman'd engine, where would I even go to online?

 

LSD's will make wet / winter driving easier, and improve launch by equalizing front wheel drive, but there's little or no help with torque steering. How much torque steer you get and when you get it, will depend mostly on how much torque is produced and the torque curve. Lotsa factors involved. My 420 ft-lbs is developed late in the RPM's, so launching is no problem but torque steer is almost immediate, then traction is lost just before shift point is reached. On the plus side, in-town driving is safe and attracts minimum attention --- a "sleeper"!

Buy / build decision --- couple of factors ---
How comfortable are you with doing the build yourself?
How much of the build can you do yourself, including LSD install?
Do you have space and time available?
Is there a trusted shop nearby to do the work for you?
Will this shop install a someone else's drivetrain?
What do you consider a "remanufactured" engine --- how much more do you want than most shops can do on a good rebuild?

Some of the NAM suppliers sell engines. Talk with them to find out if they meet your requirements for "remanufactured" or if you can live with their build. As for stages 2 & 3, these are almost always "bolt-on" upgrades with a good tune, so when choosing an engine, be sure it can handle the power you expect it to produce, i.e., cylinder walls. Commonly accepted WHP limit is 300 before cylinders need to be reinforced. So, what are your power goals? A reman'd engine will need rebuilding if you ever want over 300WHP.

If you're seriously considering your own rebuild, check out my build thread, started 10 - 11 years ago. Pretty detailed and lengthy with a few dyno charts https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ec-2018-a.html

 

Try sneed4speed.com

 

@oldbrokenwind Thanks for the information and thought provoking questions.
I just bought a new jeep Gladiator Rubicon (my first NEW car ever!) with the intent that that is my daily. This gives me time to build my R55 and not have to worry about getting it done immediately so I can drive to work.
When I was younger, I used to work on many toyota lifted trucks...was into rock crawling. I know that the old 22r toyota engines and electronics are much different then the current day Mini is, but I planned to do the rebuild/install new myself. My best friend has all of the tools as he still works on lifted vehicles. He also has a lift which is handy.

For HP - I was thinking 250 to 275 max. I dont need anything more on a car that is so light. I was thinking of hitting @mariocart up at some point to get this part done BUT wasn't sure if I should do that now (with 96k and oil burning) or after I rebuild.

I have never worked on a transmission before and know that they can be very complicated....so for the LSD I dont think I would do that myself unless you said it was a fairly straightforward thing to do.

Yes I have shop that I use that will install my parts for me if needed cause I know them and have gone there for over 25 years BUT they told me not to tell anyone that they will do that as normally they will not.

By refurbished, I mean that the engine has been taken apart and put back together with new parts and such. All components have been cleaned and it is "like new".


@Nervos THank you!

 

Stage 2 is pushing the stock turbo to its max, stage 3 highly recommended to forge the block anyways
So IMO I would buy one from the link above as they have a good reputation or buy the stuff and build with forged internals yourself. Also keep your power goals and budget realistic. This is a BMW, stuff is EXPENSIVE!
Stage 3 can easily approach the 7-10k range real quick if done properly with quality parts. This is assuming someone will be building your motor. My build is right at about 15k now...OBW knows a thing or two about what I am going through at the moment 😁