I am looking for some suggestions on diagnosing an issue with my daughters 2011 Mini Cooper Clubman S. Today she was driving home from work and the car stalled out. I grabbed my scanner and drove to her and there was a P0087, Fuel Rail system pressure too low. I understand that this is most likely a fuel pump issue. She is on a very limited income and is due to start a 2000+ mile road trip in a couple weeks so I need to get it fixed. I am somewhat mechanically inclined so I would like to fix it myself if possible. My live data shows the fuel pressure at idle at around 980 PSI. With the engine off and ignition on the fuel pressure is around 60 PSI. How do I go about testing the in tank pump and the HPFP to find out which one needs replacing? Does this car have a fuel filter that may be clogged? If it is built into the in tank pump, can the filter portion be replaced? If I hook a fuel pressure gauge into the system, where do I hook it up at? I am thinking maybe the quick release fitting that goes into the bottom of the HPFP would give me the in tank pressure? What should the pressure be? I am sorry for so many questions. Where is also a good source for either pumps? Thanks in advance.
Mike

 

So today I hooked 2 separate live data scanners to the mini and at idle, i was getting around 1000-1100 psi. I have voltage at the low pressure fuel pump and can hear it running. If I accelerate in park slowly, it will raise to 1600-1700 psi. The code now says P0087 Permanent. It starts right up with no problem and seems to idle somewhat smooth with the exception of random hiccups. Any suggestions on moving forward with diagnosing?

 

Would anyone be willing to tell me what their fuel pressure is before the HPFP?

 

I didnt get any assistance from other members of the forum so I want to post what I found out in hopes that someone else can use my experience to help them. I had a stall issue and it was obviously a fuel issue. I was getting ready to replace the HPFP before I found the issue. I was getting 72 PSI with the ignition on and could hear the in tank pump. After driving for a while ( it ran great) I shut it off and it wouldnt restart. I now had zero psi at the in tank pump. I also had power at fuel pump fuse in the junction box in the passenger footwell but no power was exiting the junction box. After opening the box and snapping a zoomed photo of the PCB by the fuel replay, you could see an irregularity in the joint. I sent the junction box to Automotive Circuit Solutions in Marshfield Missouri. For $149, they replaced the fuel pump relay and sent it back the same day, a lot better than $900 for a new HPFP . I would highly recommend sending the juction box to them for repair instead of paying $460+ for a new one. I reinstalled it and the car started right up. I will post and update after it has been driven some more and through all of the drive cycles. I hope this can save someone from buying a new pump or two and then realizing it was the relay.

 

I would have guessed HPFP initially, but your engine off pressure, idles pressure, and engine rev pressure all made sense. Glad you found the issue, and I don’t think it’s a common problem to have the PCB board fault out.

 

Hi - I am having very similar problems with a 2010 R55. My kid is very anxious to have her car back....

What scan tool or pressure gauges did you use to measure the low side fuel pressure and the high side fuel pressure. I can see "rail pressure" with my scan tool, and it is 5.1 MPa (740 psi) when running properly. During one of my no-start conditions, it was showing 0.7 MPa (100 psi). I don't see a way to measure the low side pressure with my scan tool...

Thanks! Happy Thanksgiving to all!

 

I haven't done it but, if I get a chance I will check both apps I have to see if one or both show fuel pressure.

I have Torque Pro and Bimmerlink.

 

I checked torque Pro yesterday. It only gives high side fuel rail pressure.