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I see no problem starting a new thread for your upgrades!
You make no reference to the car you have, but a built head and new timing gear will make a good bit of difference! Since you’re pulling the head, might want to consider a new thermostat and water pipe. Are you working with a tuner yet to get it dialed in?
Mine is a 2010 Mini Clubman S in 'Metallic Hot Chocolate" I think is what they call the color. I purchased it specifically because it wasn't a loud, in your face color. I tend to drive pretty quickly and don't need the extra attention. It was rattling when I got it, but was in such good condition, decided to give her a go. Of course things broke loose. See below, tore her down (just finished tear down yesterday) and plastic all throughout the engine. Looks like all the exhaust valves made contact and bent. I'm hoping the new head, cams, and downpipe will make her a little more peppy. I come from mostly Audi background and am unfamiliar with the Mini 'Tuning' market. However, I WOULD like to get the ECU tuned to take advantage of the great parts I'm putting on, but can't seem to find a reliable source.
Originally Posted by njaremka
I see no problem starting a new thread for your upgrades!
You make no reference to the car you have, but a built head and new timing gear will make a good bit of difference! Since you’re pulling the head, might want to consider a new thermostat and water pipe. Are you working with a tuner yet to get it dialed in?
I do have a question if any of the vets can chime in. I've got the Bentley, but I'm still a little concerned with setting the timing correctly. I fully understand the process of locking the flywheel, and locking existing cams in place. What changes when adding an aftermarket head/cams?
I'm also concerned about locking the flywheel 180 degrees out and smashing up my new cylinder head. Any tips/advice?
I do have a question if any of the vets can chime in. I've got the Bentley, but I'm still a little concerned with setting the timing correctly. I fully understand the process of locking the flywheel, and locking existing cams in place. What changes when adding an aftermarket head/cams?
I'm also concerned about locking the flywheel 180 degrees out and smashing up my new cylinder head. Any tips/advice?
There is only one locking hole on the flywheel, so it would be impossible to lock it 180° out of phase.
Since the crank makes two turns for every one turn of the cams, it is possible to lock the crank 180 out. However, if doing this, the cams will be difficult to lock as they only have 3 flat surfaces for the cam locking tool to fit around. If replacing OEM cams with aftermarket cams, the procedure is the same. And, if replacing cams, it makes no difference if the crank is locked 180 out --- proper cam installation will "correct" the phasing. Secondary reason for locking the crank is to prevent manual rotation with un-timed cams. Also, as a "newbie", pay attention to the "no CCW rotation" instruction --- that will screw up vanos timing.
How about a list of your mods --- what's going on besides the head? Whose cams? Any head work --- porting, valves, etc? Another vote for Lou at Prototype-r, especially if you aren't close to a Mini tuner.
Since the crank makes two turns for every one turn of the cams, it is possible to lock the crank 180 out. However, if doing this, the cams will be difficult to lock as they only have 3 flat surfaces for the cam locking tool to fit around. If replacing OEM cams with aftermarket cams, the procedure is the same. And, if replacing cams, it makes no difference if the crank is locked 180 out --- proper cam installation will "correct" the phasing. Secondary reason for locking the crank is to prevent manual rotation with un-timed cams. Also, as a "newbie", pay attention to the "no CCW rotation" instruction --- that will screw up vanos timing.
How about a list of your mods --- what's going on besides the head? Whose cams? Any head work --- porting, valves, etc? Another vote for Lou at Prototype-r, especially if you aren't close to a Mini tuner.
Keep us posted ---
I think we are saying the same things...
There is only one position to lock the crank. Then, since the head has been removed, and the timing chain also was removed, if the crank is locked by the flywheel, once the cams get lined up and locked, that's it, timing is set.
Since the crank makes two turns for every one turn of the cams, it is possible to lock the crank 180 out. However, if doing this, the cams will be difficult to lock as they only have 3 flat surfaces for the cam locking tool to fit around. If replacing OEM cams with aftermarket cams, the procedure is the same. And, if replacing cams, it makes no difference if the crank is locked 180 out --- proper cam installation will "correct" the phasing. Secondary reason for locking the crank is to prevent manual rotation with un-timed cams. Also, as a "newbie", pay attention to the "no CCW rotation" instruction --- that will screw up vanos timing.
How about a list of your mods --- what's going on besides the head? Whose cams? Any head work --- porting, valves, etc? Another vote for Lou at Prototype-r, especially if you aren't close to a Mini tuner.
Keep us posted ---
Excellent explanation and very much appreciated. As far as mods go, I just purchased the car at the turn of the year and was able to drive it a month or so before she gave up the ghost. I was lucky in that it's a very low mileage example that is COMPLETELY unmolested, and very well equipped, only missing Navi, heated seats, and the external handle unlock (forget what it's called). I'm currently only waiting for the cam lock tool and the cylinder head. I went with the Sneed N14 'Sport' head as it looks relatively plug n play. Its got Cat cams, but I don't recall the specific overlap specs but should assist in breathing. I got their cryo timing set, a 2.5 catless downpipe, and I'm currently looking for a quality reasonably priced intercooler. Lastly, I'm probably going to with the above recommended Stage 2 tune from Lou to reliably get the most from stock turbo/internals.
Cat makes four different models for the R56 --- a "Standard" which is probably the same as OEM, then a mild grind -1302601, a wild grind ---602, and a mid range grind ---603. I've been told by my tuner, Manic, that the -602 was too wild and difficult to get a good tune, so I bought the -603. Hopefully, that's the one you've got.
Do you happen to have a sound clip of yours idling? I know Sneed is updating the valve springs to support the cam specs so I'm assuming it's a tad more aggressive than stock.
Do you happen to have a sound clip of yours idling? I know Sneed is updating the valve springs to support the cam specs so I'm assuming it's a tad more aggressive than stock.
Nope, no idling sound clips. Besides, my idle speed is set to 950RPM so no "cam loping". Cat doesn't require upgraded valve springs for their standard or mild cams, so you either got the mid range or wild cams. Or, Sneed is being over-cautious. Ask them which part number, or read the engraving when they're delivered.
I’m willing to bet they add the springs to their “Sport” head because they are building the head and it’s cheap at that point. It’s also likely they are using the 603 cams with their sport head because they make the claim that no EC tuning is required to use their “Sport” head.
So, just an update on my build. Sorry for the delays. Check this customer service out! My original message starts at the bottom. My work email and wife's email have been redacted for obvious reasons.
My R56 head was ported and relieved by Thumper --- http://www.thumperheads.com/r56.php then others added the valves, springs, cams, etc. You might want to consider talking with Lou at https://prototype-r.com to see what he can do for you. He should be able to do something similar to Sneed's sport head for a competitive price. OR, just have someone like Thumper do the machine shop work and you can add the springs and cams. Thumper also has upgraded valves available. If you choose to upgrade valves, they should be seated at the machine shop unless you have that talent too. Regardless of who does the headwork, I highly recommend porting / relieving the valve passages, not just a basic valve job, and Thumper is among the best.
Sneed is terrible at communicating, but his products are built well and he stands behind his stuff.
Lou is a good resource for references, but he doesn’t do any machine or assembly work, at least what I’ve assumed from my conversations with him.
I appreciate the feedback in regards to Sneed. I understand they're busy, I work in 3rd party logistics, and let me tell you, he doesn't know what busy is. Regardless of your workload, you HAVE to MAKE time for basic customer service. When was I going to be notified I would be waiting 90 days for a cylinder? When the website VERBATIM states these parts are usually in stock. Sorry. Huge miss.
Got my refund from Sneed today. Going to call a somewhat local machine shop today and verify whether I have to buy the valves/seals etc or if they have them already. Then head is off to the machine shop and hopefully I can put this to bed. Ordering my stage 2 tune from Lou today, as well as a larger intercooler. HOPEFULLY, 2 weeks and I'll be in final assembly/tuning/working out any bugs.
Added a few cosmetic touches while I'm waiting on parts/machining.
Gloss black handles/gas cap/headlight ringsReplaced reflectors with smoked LED with sequential amber directionalsSmoked LED side markers front/backBlack led side scuttles
Passenger side Blacked out beltline Black Scuttles Debadged, and almost done blacking out
03-17-2022, 03:53 AM
