I haven't done a MINI, but sometimes with these cartridge type filters you need to remove the filter element before reinstalling the drain plug. By removing the filter, the lower seal breaks free, allowing more oil to drain, and of course you want that oil drained out too. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

 

I guess it's just habit but I always leave the drain plug out until after I have swapped the filter. I crack open the dip stick and the cap on the valve cover too. The oil in the filter is going to drain away after you crack it open, drain plug or not. Oil has no problem draining to the pan as it is being circulated or after you shut off the engine. It might drain away from the filter faster with the drain plug out and the dip stick pulled out slightly but no real way to tell for sure.

 

Here you go folks

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/index.html

This is where i sent a sample every other oil change. They test your oil and tell you what is good and bad about it. you fill something out that tells them what kind of oil you use and the milage on it. they tell you lots of infomation including the life of the oil you sent in. This will let you know with your driving style how often you NEED to get your oil changed. They will send you the test kit free but when you mail it you have to pay them $23.00. a wise investment and it will answer your "how often do i need to change my oil" questions.

sorry if someone already posted this. that's a lot of reading there's a football game on.

 

opps, to find out the oil life left in the oil you sent in (TBM) it is an andditional $10. here is the link that explains it.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/do_i_need_a_tbn_.html

 

This is the easiest oil change car I've ever had.
It's under 30 minutes and most of the time is
jacking the car up and trying to remember the 'safe place'
I put the torx driver so I wouldn't lose it next time

I realize the dealer is full non-best friend price but
$115 and $195 are way out of line. Even the $85
that is considered "normal" leaves the owner plenty
of leeway to make his/her lambroghini payment
(I'm talking about the owner of the dealership) considering
they probably don't even pay 1/2 price for the filters and
oil. And then pay billybob $9/hr to do oil changes and from
the line of people waiting to have their oil changed at
my dealer I'd say he's doing 8 oil changes per hour.

Note I'm not disagreeing with capitalism in my reply. It takes
a lot of investment to open a car dealership, and you would
have earned your lambroghinis/swiss chalets/private islands
by the time it's all said and done.

But it really is an easy job on the MC.

 

not sure about where you live, but I get a 5 quart jug of Mobil1 for 19$ at walmart. $115 for an oil change is absolutely ridiculous.

cheers,

Kyle B

 

My oil change, done out of regular maintenance at 2100 miles cost $81 after tax (2007 MCS). My Subaru used to cost $30 if I brought in my own oil (another $22), so it wasn't THAT far off....

 

So just out of curiosity when the average MINI owner changes their oil are they worrying about torquing the nuts (filter + plug) to the listed specs? Or just tightening them until they are tight?

 

Hummm,
I changed the oil in my MCS at 1200 miles. I bought the oil and filter from the dealer. My regular mechanic did the lobor for $20. We spent some time under the car looking it over and considering its weak and strong points, possible mods, etc. I'm sure the dealer charges for things (maybe does them) that we did not do, but some of the things the dealer does I consider to be part of my regular tasks. Checking fluids, tire pressures, lug bolt torque, etc.
cheers,

Joe

 

filter cap tight/snug, you can tell when it's all the way tightened
drain plug to ~25ft/lbs
the most important thing is using a new (& proper) crushwasher/seal each time

not sure where people are getting their shop rates from, most dealerships in the northwest charge over $100/hr, more like $110hr for European cars, $111/hr at the Saab dealership I work for.
Oil changes (w/ inspection) only pay 0.40hrs while the dealership charges between $29.99-49.99 depending on current 'specials' = 'losing money' on each oil change (we use the same cartridge filters & long life/euro spec 0-40w Mobil1).

Oil changes are kept cheap to get customers in the door & check for other work, even with free maintenance & a full warranty, it's worth getting a customer in the shop. Warranty work doesn't pay well, but it's still work.

I'd check with your service adviser & see if they have any specials or can cut you a deal. The dealership wants to develop a good rep. with you so you'll keep coming back after you're out of warranty.

 

I torqued the oil filter cap to 18.5 ft. lbs. and drain plug to 22 ft. lbs. I don't worry about them, I just do it. Have torque wrench, will torque.

 

Only have to torque the drain plug once, when installing the Fumoto drain valve, after that never worry about it again.

 

I don't think a Fumoto is a good idea on an R56. The drain valve sticks out from the drain hole which is OK for most cars where the hole is horizontal but it is vertical on the R56 so the valve would be sticking straight down from the bottom of the car - perfect to catch things in the road. I would worry that some paper or plastic would wrap round it and cause the valve to leak.

 

I would worry about a rock, peeled tire tread, or other debis ripping it off completely and quickly draining the oil from the engine.

 

I'd be glad to pay the same for my upcoming full service ah! Tho I doubt it... How much is the 1st full service on a MCS '07 btw??

 

I am having the "Autohaus Krauth" (BMW DEALER) here in Heidelberg change me oil earlyier than the 25,000 mark as well.
I am paying 40 euros, for labor and filter, I am supplying the oil which was 36 us dollars, Royal Purple full Synthetic.

 

Rennie, your original post appears to have ignited yet another volatile "oil thread" here on NAM. Nothing seems to get MINI owners more psychotic more quickly than a discussion of oil and/or oil change intervals! Whew!!

Personally, I think you are prudent to do an early oil change to get rid of the engine's break-in detritus. Subsequent oil changes can be done at whatever interval you prefer.

If you would care to drive over to Harrisburg, PA from wherever you are in New Jersey, I will be pleased to show you - in our garage - how to do an oil change on your MINI. It really is not difficult or complicated. I have all the needed tools, including a Topsider oil changer which avoids the need to put the car up on ramps and pull the drain plug. The right synthetic oil is available here at Pep Boys, but you will need to order a filter from a vendor such as MiniMania or your dealer's parts department, and bring the filter (along with its supplied replacement O-ring for the filter housing top) with you. I will be glad to teach you how easy it is to be self-sufficient with this important MINI maintenance operation. Your dealer's quoted fee for doing this simple job seems excessive, I agree. Let me know.

 

Second that. Jiffy Lube broke a dipstick on my car (how in the h*ll do you do that?) and didn't mention it. Castrol lied to me each time I went there, a buddy had one forget to tighten the drain plug and he lost all his oil on the freeway., etc., etc.

My Infiniti dealer actually does a good job and is cheaper than the quick-change places. Go figure.

 

Hi, Well, I just bought my "new-to-me" 2004 MCS here in Austin. Just to gather information, I called the MINI center in San Antonio to ask about extended warranty costs, coverage, etc. I asked how much for an oil change... one person said "Oh just over $200" another person said "A bit less than $300". I politely said "oh ok, great." while I internalized my WTF screaming. I would NEVER never never use an "IFFY" lube place, and I am not about to pay three digits for an oil change. I'm much more likely to buy the tools, filters, oil, etc. and do it myself. (Note: I haven't had a chance to call my local mechanic to ask what they charge....). Just curious if anyone has heard of such crazy numbers? (Oh, and I'm well aware I might have been told the new-female-mini-owner price.)

 

___________________________________

...yup!.....have your boyfriend do it...we'll teach him....$41 and you pay for dinner....

 

Hi Rennie, Fellow New Jersey-ite here. Did you find an independent mechanic to do the service? Are you in central Jersey?

Thanks in advance!

 

Hi Diploman, I wish I was closer to Harrisburg (tho we have good friend near there). Where did you get the Topsider? Does it remove all the oil? Can you list the other tools/drip-pan/pads? I think I would like to do this service sooner as opposed to later. Thanks in advance. (I found teh two other posts with great pics/instructions -- so the topsider/tool info and any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!)

 

I just had my oil changed at a local independent repair shop which I've used for over five years for maint. on my BMWs. He charges me $64.00 not including filter (he couldn't get them locally so I bought them online). The only extra "trouble" in doing an oil change on an R56 is having to move the coolant overflow tank out of the way to get to the filter. It has one bolt and takes less than 15 seconds to unscrew it and move the tank. How anyone can justify $115.00 on an R56 is beyond me. The oil changes on my '07 335i cost roughly $115.00 which includes eight, count 'em, eight quarts of oil at about $7 per. That leaves about $58 for labor, shop materials and filter.

 

Hi TK,

The tools needed for an oil change using the Topsider are quite simple:

--a 27mm socket for the oil filter canister top;
--a lengthy (12-18") extension for the above socket;
-- a metric socket (9mm, I believe) to unfasten and move the coolant reservoir;
-- rachets for sockets;

Minimania has a convenient kit which includes two filters with O-rings, drain plug crush washers, and the 27mm socket.

Consumables needed include oil, a filter and O-ring. Some paper towels for drips are advisable, and you might want to put some newspaper under the engine in case a few drops reach the floor after you take off the filter canister top. But in general, using the Topsider is a very clean operation.

I ordered the Topsider from Harbor Freight. Griot's has a similar unit, a little more expensive, but it has the advantage of being translucent and allows you to see the quantity of oil drained at any point. Either works fine.

(Using the Topsider obviates the need for ramps, drain pans, and Torx fittings to remove the oil drain plug.)

The Topsider will remove about 95-98% of the oil in the sump. Obviously, a small quantity will remain, but I don't think it is significant. The savings in hassel and mess definitely compensate for the tiny quantity of oil left in the sump. The ease of doing an oil change this way will encourage you to do it more often.

Good luck with your oil change.

 

^^^^ Thank you very much for the detailed reply, Diploman. Great info, as always. My only concern is the remaining bit in the sump and whether that would contain any bits of sediment metal that has settled. I suppose after I drain that much, I could always take out the plug any way and get the last bit easily in a small catch basin.

Thank you also for the list of tools. I think I am well-armed. Till MiniMania fixes their backorder multiple shipping charge issues, I'm going to go to Wal-Mart for some Stanley tools and extension and to a dealer for filter kit and oil, at least this first time around.

Does anyone have teh part # for the complete filter kit for post-2007 MCS?