R56 DIY Oil Change 2007 MINI Coupe with Pics
#54
#56
I'm in Carmel Valley, California. Not far from here:
#57
OK, I'm goin' in!
This is a great thread! I'm getting oil and a filter at my dealer and will do the oil change over the weekend. First oil change (~6,000 miles) on my '08 R56.
For those that have gone before me on the same vehicle, is the socket 1-1/16 or 11/16? Seems to be a little confusion (though now that I think about it, the close-up picture of the socket showed 11/16). Torx T50 still right on the drain plug? It looks like the OP changed the oil sitting flat on the garage floor?
Any other advice? I don't want to run into trouble like some folks have.
This is a great thread! I'm getting oil and a filter at my dealer and will do the oil change over the weekend. First oil change (~6,000 miles) on my '08 R56.
For those that have gone before me on the same vehicle, is the socket 1-1/16 or 11/16? Seems to be a little confusion (though now that I think about it, the close-up picture of the socket showed 11/16). Torx T50 still right on the drain plug? It looks like the OP changed the oil sitting flat on the garage floor?
Any other advice? I don't want to run into trouble like some folks have.
#59
Castrol 0w-30 satisfies these requirements. It has "European Formula" on the front of the bottle. Obtainable at the local PepBoys (east coast)
#60
#61
You can't go wrong with the MINI OEM oil. For the record, MINI recommends their own oil, or Mobil1 5w30 or Mobil1 5w40. Many NAM posts reference specific European oil ratings, but these are not required or recommended in the MINI user's manual. Also, use of MINI brand oil is not required during the warranty period. I use Mobil1 because I've always been satisfied with it's peformance, and it's relatively inexpensive for a synthetic oil, and readily available at any auto parts store.
#62
The UK version of the manual does specify ACEA A3. This is a narrower spec. than API SH. So, not all SH oils meet A3.
The engines are not different between the USA and the UK. I suspect that using the broader SH in the USA is a marketing decision. There would be probably be complaints, and possibly bad reivews, if they required some #$%@ furren spec. and a difficult to find oil.
You wont be voiding your warranty by using Mobil 1 5W-30 or 5W-40, but you wont be meeting the spec that is required in Europe. Your choice.
#63
The European spec. of ACEA A3 is not mentioned in the USA version of the users manual because the American standard API SH is used.
The UK version of the manual does specify ACEA A3. This is a narrower spec. than API SH. So, not all SH oils meet A3.
The engines are not different between the USA and the UK. I suspect that using the broader SH in the USA is a marketing decision. There would be probably be complaints, and possibly bad reivews, if they required some #$%@ furren spec. and a difficult to find oil.
You wont be voiding your warranty by using Mobil 1 5W-30 or 5W-40, but you wont be meeting the spec that is required in Europe. Your choice.
The UK version of the manual does specify ACEA A3. This is a narrower spec. than API SH. So, not all SH oils meet A3.
The engines are not different between the USA and the UK. I suspect that using the broader SH in the USA is a marketing decision. There would be probably be complaints, and possibly bad reivews, if they required some #$%@ furren spec. and a difficult to find oil.
You wont be voiding your warranty by using Mobil 1 5W-30 or 5W-40, but you wont be meeting the spec that is required in Europe. Your choice.
#64
Robin, I agree that the European spec calls for an oil that must meet stricter wear and longevity specifications. My oil change schedule is every 5k miles, and for me Mobil1 5w30 is an acceptable substitute. I also agree that MINI probably didn't spec a hard-to-find Euro-spec oil for the U.S. market because of availability issues, and because of differences in the U.S. / Euro-spec ratings systems. MINI USA has also found Mobil1 5w30 and Mobil1 5w40 to be acceptable substitutes, which is why they're recommended in the owner's manual. If I ran my MINI 15k-20k miles on the same oil, I'd spring for the extra bucks and use the OEM oil.
#67
#69
Am I missing something? The Allen Wrench will be fine for getting the plug out, but if it has to be torqued to specs, the Allen wrench won't work to put it back in.
For those interested, there is a good how-to-do article posted in the first issue of NAM Alliance: https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/alliance (see past issue #1 on bottom right).
#70
My 8mm Hex is a 3/8" drive (about $3 at Advance Auto Parts) and I used a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter for the torque wrench.
27mm is a 1/2" drive and don't get the 'deep' version,
with the normal depth, you don't even need to move the coolant tank on just'a-Cooper,
on the MCS you must move the tank and use a six inch extension to clear the TurboCharger.
27mm is a 1/2" drive and don't get the 'deep' version,
with the normal depth, you don't even need to move the coolant tank on just'a-Cooper,
on the MCS you must move the tank and use a six inch extension to clear the TurboCharger.
#71
These are the only oils I would use in my MCS:
Redline 5W-30
Amsoil 5W-40 European Engine Oil
Mobil 1 0W-40
Mini Brand 5W-30
-C
#72
Now see, that's what I was looking for at Sears yesterday, but I couldn't find it. Although Sears still has a great selection of tools, they've gone to a lot of package deals--in some cases, hard to get single tools; now have to spend $40 on a multi-pack. I'll stop by Advanced Auto today. Thanks pilotart!
#73
I looked all through Sears today for a 8mm hex on a 1/2" bit I could use on my torque wrench.
Am I missing something? The Allen Wrench will be fine for getting the plug out, but if it has to be torqued to specs, the Allen wrench won't work to put it back in.
For those interested, there is a good how-to-do article posted in the first issue of NAM Alliance: https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/alliance (see past issue #1 on bottom right).
Am I missing something? The Allen Wrench will be fine for getting the plug out, but if it has to be torqued to specs, the Allen wrench won't work to put it back in.
For those interested, there is a good how-to-do article posted in the first issue of NAM Alliance: https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/alliance (see past issue #1 on bottom right).
#74
#75
People , unless you've never tightened a screw before, putting a drain plug back in is not Rocket Science. You can still perform the Oil Change without a Torque Wrench.
A simple rule of thumb, if your hurting your wrist to insert a fastener or plug, your over tightening it.
I'm not trying to dismiss this out of hand, but certain actions don't require being **** over torque specs like an item such as the oil plug.
A simple rule of thumb, if your hurting your wrist to insert a fastener or plug, your over tightening it.
I'm not trying to dismiss this out of hand, but certain actions don't require being **** over torque specs like an item such as the oil plug.