R56 R56 HID install
#27
#29
Well, I've seen plenty of cars with aftermarket "HIDs" and they're just plain dangerous, ugly, and annoying.
But besides that opinion, you're going to need to figure out the wiring if you want a true Xenon setup.... don't think you can get 20,000volts out of a 12volt line, but I'm no electrician... could be a simple swap, could be hell. It'd be interesting to see someone do it right.
But besides that opinion, you're going to need to figure out the wiring if you want a true Xenon setup.... don't think you can get 20,000volts out of a 12volt line, but I'm no electrician... could be a simple swap, could be hell. It'd be interesting to see someone do it right.
#32
#34
It's not that hard
You need a kit to install the lights. I have had Bi-Xenon lights on my H3 for 3 years and have NEVER had a problem. This company http://plasmagarage.com/Bi-xenon_HID_Installation.html
has a kit that is a direct plug-in Bi-Xenon light kit. Believe me I drive on country roads and would never go back. My Mini kit isn't here yet (ordered last week), but from my H3 experience. it is a plug and play deal. The old headlight plug goes to the ballasts (yes that is the device that takes 12v to 20,000 v) and then supply a new 12v lead from the battery to the ballast. The plug senses high / low signals and the bulb shifts in the headlight housing to change focus. Also, get the battery relay kit just to make sure of a good 12v supply.
I found that I needed to adjust the headlight housing down about 1-2 degrees to limit the glare.
Since there is still current draw on the headlamp plug, not as much as a headlight but there still is some, there should be no "computer issues".
My truck has been inspected 3 times now for license renewal. No problems ever. Of course I am in Kansas City not LA.
I'll keep you all posted on my installation.
has a kit that is a direct plug-in Bi-Xenon light kit. Believe me I drive on country roads and would never go back. My Mini kit isn't here yet (ordered last week), but from my H3 experience. it is a plug and play deal. The old headlight plug goes to the ballasts (yes that is the device that takes 12v to 20,000 v) and then supply a new 12v lead from the battery to the ballast. The plug senses high / low signals and the bulb shifts in the headlight housing to change focus. Also, get the battery relay kit just to make sure of a good 12v supply.
I found that I needed to adjust the headlight housing down about 1-2 degrees to limit the glare.
Since there is still current draw on the headlamp plug, not as much as a headlight but there still is some, there should be no "computer issues".
My truck has been inspected 3 times now for license renewal. No problems ever. Of course I am in Kansas City not LA.
I'll keep you all posted on my installation.
Last edited by ambersham; 03-28-2009 at 12:37 PM.
#35
There are lots of minor infractions that people commit while operating cars that they don't cite you for, but that doesn't make it any less illegal.
Letter to a manufacturer of the kits from the NHTSA.
And here's a letter to a guy selling the kits in which the NHTSA says clearly, "I should advise you that we know of no HID conversion kit that can be certified by its manufacturer as complying with FMVSS No. 108."
And here's the link to the law that these kits violate.
Letter to a manufacturer of the kits from the NHTSA.
And here's a letter to a guy selling the kits in which the NHTSA says clearly, "I should advise you that we know of no HID conversion kit that can be certified by its manufacturer as complying with FMVSS No. 108."
And here's the link to the law that these kits violate.
#36
It's still not that bad
While all of that is VERY NICE ... This specific reg only discusses 12v lighting not anything to do with HID type lighting. I will guarantee that the Xenon bulbs will fail this specific reg since it states that 12.8 volts applied to the bulb is the specific test. Any HID bulb will not light under the test outlined in this reg. Of course HID bulbs meet the wattage requirement. If you re-adjust your dims you can meet the vertical measurement test. But specifically you are correct .. since the bulb is NOT what was tested by the manufacturer it is not approved. Reasonably adjusted Xenons (aftermarket or manufacturer installed) "appear" brighter because of the shorter wavelength of the light and it's interaction with the oxygen, carbon dioxide and nitrogen in the atmosphere (less diffusing of the light waves or particles depending on your measurement method), it doesn't mean that they put out any more candlepower than the test here outlines. Our eyes see the shorter wavelength light better as a general rule, unless you have a defect.
I have passed, been passed by local police and highway patrol and nary a problem. While you are correct that it is not a National Highway Traffic and Safety approved bulb replacement (nor are many mods that we all make) your risk of running afoul in VERY minimal, since I have yet to see a highway patrol car carry the proper test equipment.
One final note stay with the 4300k HIDs since they are a factory color.
I have passed, been passed by local police and highway patrol and nary a problem. While you are correct that it is not a National Highway Traffic and Safety approved bulb replacement (nor are many mods that we all make) your risk of running afoul in VERY minimal, since I have yet to see a highway patrol car carry the proper test equipment.
One final note stay with the 4300k HIDs since they are a factory color.
#37
The problem is the lenses are not designed for those bulbs. They put out too much light and it is scattered everywhere. You really need to have projection lenses to have the HID kits work properly and not scatter light into on coming traffic. Just adjusting the lenses down doesn't fit that. They have made them illegal in the UK and it is only a matter of time before the US follows suite.
#38
You need a kit to install the lights. I have had Bi-Xenon lights on my H3 for 3 years and have NEVER had a problem. This company http://plasmagarage.com/Bi-xenon_HID_Installation.html
has a kit that is a direct plug-in Bi-Xenon light kit. Believe me I drive on country roads and would never go back. My Mini kit isn't here yet (ordered last week), but from my H3 experience. it is a plug and play deal. The old headlight plug goes to the ballasts (yes that is the device that takes 12v to 20,000 v) and then supply a new 12v lead from the battery to the ballast. The plug senses high / low signals and the bulb shifts in the headlight housing to change focus. Also, get the battery relay kit just to make sure of a good 12v supply.
I found that I needed to adjust the headlight housing down about 1-2 degrees to limit the glare.
Since there is still current draw on the headlamp plug, not as much as a headlight but there still is some, there should be no "computer issues".
My truck has been inspected 3 times now for license renewal. No problems ever. Of course I am in Kansas City not LA.
I'll keep you all posted on my installation.
has a kit that is a direct plug-in Bi-Xenon light kit. Believe me I drive on country roads and would never go back. My Mini kit isn't here yet (ordered last week), but from my H3 experience. it is a plug and play deal. The old headlight plug goes to the ballasts (yes that is the device that takes 12v to 20,000 v) and then supply a new 12v lead from the battery to the ballast. The plug senses high / low signals and the bulb shifts in the headlight housing to change focus. Also, get the battery relay kit just to make sure of a good 12v supply.
I found that I needed to adjust the headlight housing down about 1-2 degrees to limit the glare.
Since there is still current draw on the headlamp plug, not as much as a headlight but there still is some, there should be no "computer issues".
My truck has been inspected 3 times now for license renewal. No problems ever. Of course I am in Kansas City not LA.
I'll keep you all posted on my installation.
I don't think that is a Bi Xenon light at all...
#40
I was responding to the previous post.
I just took the Xenons off of my friends MCS, and stuck them in mine (stock halogens). Ballast and bulb are hooked up. The connector fits just fine, but when I started the car and tried to turn the lights on, nothing happened. Is there something else that needs to be done that make them work?
#41
Any news on this?
I just took the Xenons off of my friends MCS, and stuck them in mine (stock halogens). Ballast and bulb are hooked up. The connector fits just fine, but when I started the car and tried to turn the lights on, nothing happened. Is there something else that needs to be done that make them work?
I just checked and there are a few Xenon headlights available on Ebay.
Now, if it is a simple swap, it might be worth it, as it still will be OEM equipment.
#42
#43
Please, I beg you, please don't. Some day when you are old like me, you will find out the blue end of the spectrum is totally blinding and your eyes don't recover for a long time. Sure you can see fine with the HID in your car, but I will drive right into you as I am totally blinded by HID's. I do not know how these were ever allowed in cars. I am forced to wear yellow glasses at night even for the blue-ish quartz bulbs.
#44
#45
While all of that is VERY NICE ... This specific reg only discusses 12v lighting not anything to do with HID type lighting. I will guarantee that the Xenon bulbs will fail this specific reg since it states that 12.8 volts applied to the bulb is the specific test. Any HID bulb will not light under the test outlined in this reg. Of course HID bulbs meet the wattage requirement. If you re-adjust your dims you can meet the vertical measurement test. But specifically you are correct .. since the bulb is NOT what was tested by the manufacturer it is not approved. Reasonably adjusted Xenons (aftermarket or manufacturer installed) "appear" brighter because of the shorter wavelength of the light and it's interaction with the oxygen, carbon dioxide and nitrogen in the atmosphere (less diffusing of the light waves or particles depending on your measurement method), it doesn't mean that they put out any more candlepower than the test here outlines. Our eyes see the shorter wavelength light better as a general rule, unless you have a defect.
And as you said, the shorter wave-length light is the reason it is important to have the proper optics. I see so many cars with HID conversions using the standard halogen reflectors. It looks really cheap, kind of like adding the purple fake-HID bulbs. The glare is usually ridiculous. I have seen a couple of conversions using halogen projectors (the round magnifying lens in front of the bulb) that looked almost factory because the bulbs were positioned properly. But most people get it wrong.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Interior/Exterior DEPO/Helix Projector Headlights Installed
Alkaidovich
Interior/Exterior
68
01-30-2021 01:35 AM
igzekyativ
MINIs & Minis for Sale
34
07-16-2020 12:54 PM
squawSkiBum
MINI Parts for Sale
15
10-02-2015 09:21 AM