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R56 First oil change- Should I do it at 1200ish miles or 7500ish

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  #26  
Old 06-12-2008, 12:21 PM
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Well, I wouldn't mind giving it a go, but my free service is due soon, so it will be a while before I do another change myself.
 
  #27  
Old 06-12-2008, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by smackboy1
Filter is on top. It's a cartridge type and all that's needed is a socket with an extension to reach it. Here's a DIY w/ photos:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=101513

With the fluid evacuator I don't need to crawl under the car, don't need a torque wrench, don't need a drain pan, don't need a jack. No muss, no fuss.

Where did you get the evacuator and for how much?
 
  #28  
Old 06-12-2008, 01:50 PM
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We changed Scoop's oil first at 1000 miles. There were metal shearings in the filter (typical for new engines, but NOT something I want floating around!) but the oil was clean. Just did the 2nd change, and the oil was DARK, but clear. No sludge or bits in it. Haven't analyzed it, but if you search, there are some fairly recent posts and results.
 
  #29  
Old 06-12-2008, 01:54 PM
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I have a Griot's oil extractor



I've used it a few times... But I'm switching to a new oil that I'll be changing every 10K miles, and I'm installing a Fumoto valve on my R52 to do a full drain each time. I've found that the extractor only gets about 80% of the oil out... due to the location of the dipstick tube vs. the shape of the oilpan, I think...
 
  #30  
Old 06-12-2008, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BlimeyCabrio
I have a Griot's oil extractor



I've used it a few times... But I'm switching to a new oil that I'll be changing every 10K miles, and I'm installing a Fumoto valve on my R52 to do a full drain each time. I've found that the extractor only gets about 80% of the oil out... due to the location of the dipstick tube vs. the shape of the oilpan, I think...
This was going to be my next question - how much of the old stuff is left in the pan when pulling from the top...still seems like it might be a good way to go for those in between changes.
 
  #31  
Old 06-12-2008, 01:58 PM
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Yep... that's why I bought it, the "in-between" changes every 7.5K... but now that I'm finished with free dealer service and changing to a 10K interval, I'm just gonna bite the bullet and do it the "hard way" each time... but the fumoto valve will make it not too bad...
 
  #32  
Old 06-12-2008, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BlimeyCabrio
I have a Griot's oil extractor



I've used it a few times... But I'm switching to a new oil that I'll be changing every 10K miles, and I'm installing a Fumoto valve on my R52 to do a full drain each time. I've found that the extractor only gets about 80% of the oil out... due to the location of the dipstick tube vs. the shape of the oilpan, I think...

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MIT-7201.html

The above link is the same extractor (same company) as griots but cheaper.

I have the one from the link I posted and still works great after 4 years.
 
  #33  
Old 06-12-2008, 02:11 PM
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Actually the one pictured is a bit different than the Griots unit (the Griots one has the pump integrated in the cylinder... the one in your link has an outboard pump... but I suspect they work similarly...

Most Griots stuff is overpriced... but I had a gift cert...
 
  #34  
Old 06-12-2008, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BlimeyCabrio
I have a Griot's oil extractor

I've used it a few times... But I'm switching to a new oil that I'll be changing every 10K miles, and I'm installing a Fumoto valve on my R52 to do a full drain each time. I've found that the extractor only gets about 80% of the oil out... due to the location of the dipstick tube vs. the shape of the oilpan, I think...
Originally Posted by smash0r
This was going to be my next question - how much of the old stuff is left in the pan when pulling from the top...still seems like it might be a good way to go for those in between changes.
The R52 and R56 have entirely different engines. For one thing, the oil drain plug is in a different place, so the shape of the oil pan is probably quite different. You need to find someone who as used an extractor on an R56 and then checked the drain plug.

I used a different extractor on an Integra long ago, but found it to be a lot more work than getting under the car. This extractor may be different.

The drain plug on the MINI is not far back from the front of the car, compared to some other cars. I find it easy to do if I use gloves, and a catch pan that is also a container.
 
  #35  
Old 06-12-2008, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Robin Casady
The R52 and R56 have entirely different engines. For one thing, the oil drain plug is in a different place, so the shape of the oil pan is probably quite different. You need to find someone who as used an extractor on an R56 and then checked the drain plug.
Definitely a valid point. Why I was sure to mention that I had an R52.
 
  #36  
Old 06-12-2008, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Robin Casady
The R52 and R56 have entirely different engines. For one thing, the oil drain plug is in a different place, so the shape of the oil pan is probably quite different. You need to find someone who as used an extractor on an R56 and then checked the drain plug.

I used a different extractor on an Integra long ago, but found it to be a lot more work than getting under the car. This extractor may be different.

The drain plug on the MINI is not far back from the front of the car, compared to some other cars. I find it easy to do if I use gloves, and a catch pan that is also a container.
Touche - then again...I have one of each, the '05 is completely in my hands for service now too.
 
  #37  
Old 06-12-2008, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sunman
Where did you get the evacuator and for how much?
I have a MityVac which I got off Amazon for $65.

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-F...3313029&sr=8-1

I like this model because after I drain the oil I can just push a switch and dispense the used oil into a container for disposal. No pouring.

Plus at night you can go around siphoning gas out of other people's cars After stealing 2 tanks of gas it will pay for itself
 
  #38  
Old 06-12-2008, 05:22 PM
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Update to my oil change story:
1.) Hubby's BMW - oil was "too low," so they added some. Didn't change it though. I do NOT like the idea that there is no dipstick or other physical indicator to check the oil...just the car's computer.

2.) Since my MCS was "born" 4/07, it's a year old...since it's at least a year old, my oil change (which I definitely requested, not just adding to) is now free.

Cheers!
 
  #39  
Old 06-12-2008, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BlimeyCabrio
Using a Fram filter on an exotic? Nice...
 
  #40  
Old 06-12-2008, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by smash0r
This was going to be my next question - how much of the old stuff is left in the pan when pulling from the top...still seems like it might be a good way to go for those in between changes.
I did my first oil change on the Clubman using my Mityvac. I then checked the pan by pulling the oil plug, and another 6-8 ounces came out. I did have the car up on low ramps (about 5" high), so this might have made it more difficult for the extractor to get all the oil. Next change I'm going to leave the car completely level to see if I get a better result. You really don't need ramps to get to the drain plug, at least on the stock Clubman.
I highly recommend the Mityvac Fluid Extractor Plus, Model MV-7201, as it extracts the oil, then dispenses it into another container for recycling.
Link is here: http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp#07400 (scroll down the page a bit)
 
  #41  
Old 06-12-2008, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by x uh oh x
Update to my oil change story:
1.) Hubby's BMW - oil was "too low," so they added some. Didn't change it though. I do NOT like the idea that there is no dipstick or other physical indicator to check the oil...just the car's computer.
No dipstick? That's just wrong!
 
  #42  
Old 06-12-2008, 09:26 PM
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I had my MINI branded oil tested by Dyson at between 5300 to 5500 miles. It was depleted. I am considering the Biosyn on my next change which will be at 12500. I am at 9750 right now. I might be the R56 to guinea pig the Biosyn. I am sort of wrestling with the warranty issues that might arise. Will decide when it is time to change. I have a 5 gallon pail on hand. I am going to use it in my Subaru on the next change for sure.

Also, check you air filter. Mine was pretty dirty at 9700 miles. I don't know if they are cleanable and reusable or not. They look like paper. I replaced mine. There was a cigarette but under the filter. Kind of odd as this was the original filter. It must have come from the factory, I think. I don't think it is possible for it to get under the filter any other way, but I might be wrong.
 
  #43  
Old 06-13-2008, 04:29 AM
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You could definitely pull a butt in through the snorkel... would be a one-in-a-million shot, unless somebody was just being cute and stuck one in the front of the snorkel while you were parked...
 
  #44  
Old 06-13-2008, 04:41 AM
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1200 is exactly what I did and just did it again at 6K, and...

... DIY, it is very easy except you need a very low oil pan to slide under there.
 
  #45  
Old 06-13-2008, 08:51 AM
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I have a TopSider oil extractor purchased from Harbor Freight. Same principle as the Griot's extractor, but oil goes into a round steel can which holds about 2 gallons. I have used it three times to change my 07 MCS's oil, and I must say the extractor works well. After my last change , for example, it took 4.5 quarts of new oil to bring the dipstick back to the full point: that's just about the listed capacity of the sump. The new oil looks quite clean, appearing to have very little of the previous batch mixed in. This leads me to conclude that the extractor, if used carefully, can pull nearly all of the oil in the sump, perhaps 98%. Doing a complete job, however, does require a certain bit of technique and touch for placement of the oil hose at just the right depth and location for maximum extraction. One small downside to the extractor is that it is rather slow - takes about 30 minutes to completely empty the MCS's sump. This is not a problem for me, but if you're in a big hurry draining the sump would be faster. My MINI's sump plug has never been out, and I like the extractor very much for for hassel-free, mess-free oil changes. If done right, I don't think the tiny bit of oil remaining in the sump is a significant issue.
 
  #46  
Old 06-13-2008, 09:38 AM
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Extractors seem like a good way to take a very simple job and complicate it beyond belief, must be ex-military...,

FUBAR!
 
  #47  
Old 06-13-2008, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by CDMINI
Extractors seem like a good way to take a very simple job and complicate it beyond belief, must be ex-military...,

FUBAR!
My experience says it's the opposite
 
  #48  
Old 06-13-2008, 10:07 AM
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Eva is at 4300 miles with the brake-in oil (off the lot since Jan 30, 2008).

Is she in any trouble? I need to get off my lazy butt and just get the oil change done with already though.

How does a person go on to dispose the oil once drained? Can it be used for anything like burning candles and stuff or too toxic to do anything with?
 
  #49  
Old 06-13-2008, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Qingdom

How does a person go on to dispose the oil once drained? Can it be used for anything like burning candles and stuff or too toxic to do anything with?
usually two choices, in my city you can request these used oil jugs for recycling. then you just fill the jugs and they take it away on trash day.

the other option is to check with your local auto parts store or mechanic. they usually have a oil recycling tank in the back somewhere which you can use free of charge (most of the time)
 
  #50  
Old 06-13-2008, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mellowmcs
My experience says it's the opposite
Do you say it's hard to take out a drain plug, wait 10 minutes and then put on the new washer that came with the filter and put it back in?
 


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