R56 First oil change- Should I do it at 1200ish miles or 7500ish
#76
Since I'd contributed to this thread before even taking delivery... I thought I'd chime in with the results of my change today:
1686 miles. Oil was surprisingly dark. Some metallic debris in the oil drain pan, so I'm glad I did the service. Went ahead with MINI 5W-30 synth, just for warranty tranquility. The tip somewhere here on NAM about partially unscrewing the filter cap to let it drain was helpful in limiting the mess from removing the filter. The two coolant hoses that are close to the filter are hot, be careful. I had to use a knife to pop the crush washer loose from the drain plug; the paint on the oil pan and plug made that a little difficult. Overall, other than the close clearance (eg: contact) between the front apron and the Rhino Ramps, it was pretty simple. Capacity is 4.5 quarts to essentially full.
I've now communed with my inner MINI...
1686 miles. Oil was surprisingly dark. Some metallic debris in the oil drain pan, so I'm glad I did the service. Went ahead with MINI 5W-30 synth, just for warranty tranquility. The tip somewhere here on NAM about partially unscrewing the filter cap to let it drain was helpful in limiting the mess from removing the filter. The two coolant hoses that are close to the filter are hot, be careful. I had to use a knife to pop the crush washer loose from the drain plug; the paint on the oil pan and plug made that a little difficult. Overall, other than the close clearance (eg: contact) between the front apron and the Rhino Ramps, it was pretty simple. Capacity is 4.5 quarts to essentially full.
I've now communed with my inner MINI...
#77
Synthetic Oil type
I'm waiting on my mini to arrive, but from what I read, it sounds like the mini uses full synthetic right from the git-go. I was under the impression that most new cars use regular dino oil to let the engine seat in, and that full synthetic shouldn't be used until a little later (~10K miles). Now I don't want to rehash an oil "perference" topic again. But what synthetic oil do most mini owners use, Mobil1, Castrol Syn-tec, etc. Are there any that I should avoid?
#78
I'm waiting on my mini to arrive, but from what I read, it sounds like the mini uses full synthetic right from the git-go. I was under the impression that most new cars use regular dino oil to let the engine seat in, and that full synthetic shouldn't be used until a little later (~10K miles). Now I don't want to rehash an oil "perference" topic again. But what synthetic oil do most mini owners use, Mobil1, Castrol Syn-tec, etc. Are there any that I should avoid?
Yes the MINI comes with FULL SYNthetic, DO NOT SWITCH TO REG OIL!!!!
The book recomends a change at 25 thousand, I personally did my at 10,000.
Go with Mobil 1 or RP I think most Owners wouls agree
#79
I'm waiting on my mini to arrive, but from what I read, it sounds like the mini uses full synthetic right from the git-go. I was under the impression that most new cars use regular dino oil to let the engine seat in, and that full synthetic shouldn't be used until a little later (~10K miles). Now I don't want to rehash an oil "perference" topic again. But what synthetic oil do most mini owners use, Mobil1, Castrol Syn-tec, etc. Are there any that I should avoid?
I finished my break in last week and did my first oil change yesterday. I used Castrol Syntec 0W-30 "European Formula", aka German Castrol. It's the only Castrol Syntec sold in the US that is a true synthetic and meets the BMW LL-01 standard. Mobil1 is a pretty safe choice and is easier to find.
#80
#81
Online, you can get filters from MiniMania or Moss Mini.
#83
#84
Where did you find German-spec Castrol 0W-30?
#86
#87
#88
I bought six quarts of MINI Oil (5W-30) from Downtown MINI in Orlando @ $6.20 which should be a three year supply (Break-In Change and 'add') at my miles per year. 1100 miles and quarter inch down from top mark, but there is a gasoline oder.
Does AZ or PepBoy have 5W-30? European Castrol? Had read in here that the Only Mobil-1 with the ACEA A3-B3 was 0W-40.
USA rules changed to allow domestic Castrol, Mobil-1 etc, to label "Synthetic" without needing to be Pure Synthetic. (Just refined Dino Oil)
Does AZ or PepBoy have 5W-30? European Castrol? Had read in here that the Only Mobil-1 with the ACEA A3-B3 was 0W-40.
USA rules changed to allow domestic Castrol, Mobil-1 etc, to label "Synthetic" without needing to be Pure Synthetic. (Just refined Dino Oil)
#90
I bought six quarts of MINI Oil (5W-30) from Downtown MINI in Orlando @ $6.20 which should be a three year supply (Break-In Change and 'add') at my miles per year. 1100 miles and quarter inch down from top mark, but there is a gasoline oder.
Does AZ or PepBoy have 5W-30? European Castrol? Had read in here that the Only Mobil-1 with the ACEA A3-B3 was 0W-40.
USA rules changed to allow domestic Castrol, Mobil-1 etc, to label "Synthetic" without needing to be Pure Synthetic. (Just refined Dino Oil)
Does AZ or PepBoy have 5W-30? European Castrol? Had read in here that the Only Mobil-1 with the ACEA A3-B3 was 0W-40.
USA rules changed to allow domestic Castrol, Mobil-1 etc, to label "Synthetic" without needing to be Pure Synthetic. (Just refined Dino Oil)
Mobile 1 0w-40 is what I used at 5200miles. Main reason as you stated was because it is the only one that is approved by BMW.
#91
Course, this was when they were trying to convince me that the extended maintenance plan made economic sense, so I'm guessing they skewed toward the high side. Hopefully, by a lot.
My Lexus takes 6 qts of oil, and a synthetic change cost just under $100 at a local stop-and-grease chain store.
#92
#93
German Castrol is still a true synthetic. It is only available as 0W-30, but it's on the thicker side of that rating. Mobil1 is also still primarily a true synthetic (it's actually a mixture since dino-derived oil is a better carrier of additives).
#95
I'm switching back to MINI brand. I went with Mobil1 last time because it was more readily available. i happened to be at the auto parts store and saw mobil 1 0w-40 and decided to change the oil. i was originally going to wait until 7k miles.
#96
Based on a personal experience as well as Pratt & Whitney's (my aircraft requires Synthetic Turbine Oil) requirements,
I was reluctant to 'switch' brands (and SAE 'Weight') for one oil change.
I will soon be performing my 1200 mile 'break-in' oil change, but plan to rely on MINI Service for the next three years.
My annual mileage is well below the most conservative interval recommended by experts in here.
Currently at 1150 miles and my oil stick reads about 1/4 inch below top ferrule of the dipstick.
Upon refill, I plan to 'calibrate' that inch and a half between the dipstick ferrules.
My oil appears clean and the color on the tissue used to 'read' level is exactly the color of my coffee (no cream),
but has a distinct odor of gasoline. Fuel contamination would be expected on a new engine,
prior to Ring Seating, which should have been accomplished early in the 'Break-In' period.
I plan no "Oil Analysis" but it is well worth the DIY $47 cost to avoid using this 'Factory Fill' any longer,
which now has such an obviously high 'Flash-Point' and the coking and gunking that would result from that.
#99
Sorry to bring back an old thread but I figured my question wasn't worth a new one. I'm approaching 1k miles and plan to do an oil change with RP. I'm kind of interested in getting a UOA. Should I get one now, at 1k miles, or at my next change (5-7k)? I have an 09 JCW and haven't seen any UOA on them yet.
#100
Well, I wouldn't bother with a UOA at 1k miles, because I can guarantee it's going to have all sorts of wear contaminants from engine break-in, some amount of fuel dilution because the rings haven't fully seated yet, and other non-wear contaminants from the assembly lube/sealants used at the factory.
I'd change it now to flush out the crud, and then have the RP tested after 5-7k miles to see how it's holding up. Or, if you want a really fair test of the RP that's not biased by break-in contaminants, I'd leave the factory oil in until 5k miles, then replace it with RP and test the RP 5-7k miles later.
I'd change it now to flush out the crud, and then have the RP tested after 5-7k miles to see how it's holding up. Or, if you want a really fair test of the RP that's not biased by break-in contaminants, I'd leave the factory oil in until 5k miles, then replace it with RP and test the RP 5-7k miles later.