Since I'd contributed to this thread before even taking delivery... I thought I'd chime in with the results of my change today:

1686 miles. Oil was surprisingly dark. Some metallic debris in the oil drain pan, so I'm glad I did the service. Went ahead with MINI 5W-30 synth, just for warranty tranquility. The tip somewhere here on NAM about partially unscrewing the filter cap to let it drain was helpful in limiting the mess from removing the filter. The two coolant hoses that are close to the filter are hot, be careful. I had to use a knife to pop the crush washer loose from the drain plug; the paint on the oil pan and plug made that a little difficult. Overall, other than the close clearance (eg: contact) between the front apron and the Rhino Ramps, it was pretty simple. Capacity is 4.5 quarts to essentially full.

I've now communed with my inner MINI...

 

I'm waiting on my mini to arrive, but from what I read, it sounds like the mini uses full synthetic right from the git-go. I was under the impression that most new cars use regular dino oil to let the engine seat in, and that full synthetic shouldn't be used until a little later (~10K miles). Now I don't want to rehash an oil "perference" topic again. But what synthetic oil do most mini owners use, Mobil1, Castrol Syn-tec, etc. Are there any that I should avoid?

 

Mobil 1 is a good ALT to the BMW preferred Castrol, IMO stay away from castrol. Royal Purple is good....Great actually,
Yes the MINI comes with FULL SYNthetic, DO NOT SWITCH TO REG OIL!!!!
The book recomends a change at 25 thousand, I personally did my at 10,000.
Go with Mobil 1 or RP I think most Owners wouls agree

 

With regards to using dino during break in, things have changed in the last few years. There are many cars that come with synthetic as factory fill- MINI, Corvettes, Vipers, Mercedes AMG cars, etc.

I finished my break in last week and did my first oil change yesterday. I used Castrol Syntec 0W-30 "European Formula", aka German Castrol. It's the only Castrol Syntec sold in the US that is a true synthetic and meets the BMW LL-01 standard. Mobil1 is a pretty safe choice and is easier to find.

 

Would 15W50 be the perferred blend, as their web site suggests this weight for turbocharged engines?

Where is the best (read low cost) place to get the oil filters? Any good on-line sites?

 

Per the manual, MINI recommends 5W-30 or 5W-40. 15W-50 is probably too thick.

Online, you can get filters from MiniMania or Moss Mini.

 

Probably a dumb question, but what's the going rate for a full r56 synth oil change these days?

 

My MINI dealer just quoted me $70 for an oil change (parts and labor) for my '08 MCS.

 

Where did you find German-spec Castrol 0W-30?

 

 

Stick with the Mini recommended weight and type. Many new cars use the engine oil as hydraulic fluid for things like variable valve timining and such. I would not mess with it at all...

 

Pep Boys and Autozone both carry it. Look for "European Formula" on the front and Made in Germany on the back.

 

I bought six quarts of MINI Oil (5W-30) from Downtown MINI in Orlando @ $6.20 which should be a three year supply (Break-In Change and 'add') at my miles per year. 1100 miles and quarter inch down from top mark, but there is a gasoline oder.

Does AZ or PepBoy have 5W-30? European Castrol? Had read in here that the Only Mobil-1 with the ACEA A3-B3 was 0W-40.

USA rules changed to allow domestic Castrol, Mobil-1 etc, to label "Synthetic" without needing to be Pure Synthetic. (Just refined Dino Oil)

 

Thanks.

 

Mobile 1 0w-40 is what I used at 5200miles. Main reason as you stated was because it is the only one that is approved by BMW.

 

That seems like a good price. My dealer quoted me $260 for an "oil service!"

Course, this was when they were trying to convince me that the extended maintenance plan made economic sense, so I'm guessing they skewed toward the high side. Hopefully, by a lot.

My Lexus takes 6 qts of oil, and a synthetic change cost just under $100 at a local stop-and-grease chain store.

 

From reading around here, I believe that there is a difference between an "oil change" and an "oil service." I'm going to get an oil change myself in the next couple weeks (break-in change), and I see no reason to pay for a full "service" on it.

 

German Castrol is still a true synthetic. It is only available as 0W-30, but it's on the thicker side of that rating. Mobil1 is also still primarily a true synthetic (it's actually a mixture since dino-derived oil is a better carrier of additives).

 

Which oil is considered better?

The Mobile 1 0W-40 or the Mini Brand 5W-30?

Thanks!

 

I'm switching back to MINI brand. I went with Mobil1 last time because it was more readily available. i happened to be at the auto parts store and saw mobil 1 0w-40 and decided to change the oil. i was originally going to wait until 7k miles.

 

{Link HERE} to a discussion among the 'experts' comparing Mobile-1 0W-40 with Castrol GC 0W-40.

Based on a personal experience as well as Pratt & Whitney's (my aircraft requires Synthetic Turbine Oil) requirements,
I was reluctant to 'switch' brands (and SAE 'Weight') for one oil change.

I will soon be performing my 1200 mile 'break-in' oil change, but plan to rely on MINI Service for the next three years.
My annual mileage is well below the most conservative interval recommended by experts in here.

Currently at 1150 miles and my oil stick reads about 1/4 inch below top ferrule of the dipstick.
Upon refill, I plan to 'calibrate' that inch and a half between the dipstick ferrules.

My oil appears clean and the color on the tissue used to 'read' level is exactly the color of my coffee (no cream),
but has a distinct odor of gasoline. Fuel contamination would be expected on a new engine,
prior to Ring Seating, which should have been accomplished early in the 'Break-In' period.

I plan no "Oil Analysis" but it is well worth the DIY $47 cost to avoid using this 'Factory Fill' any longer,
which now has such an obviously high 'Flash-Point' and the coking and gunking that would result from that.

 

Just had an oil change today at 1500 miles and with taxes it was $108. $42 in parts and $58 in labor. ~$8 tax.

I'd take that....cheaper than $100 I paid.

 

I did it at 1200, 5000, 10000. My motor gets used but it is pampered as well.

 

Sorry to bring back an old thread but I figured my question wasn't worth a new one. I'm approaching 1k miles and plan to do an oil change with RP. I'm kind of interested in getting a UOA. Should I get one now, at 1k miles, or at my next change (5-7k)? I have an 09 JCW and haven't seen any UOA on them yet.

 

Well, I wouldn't bother with a UOA at 1k miles, because I can guarantee it's going to have all sorts of wear contaminants from engine break-in, some amount of fuel dilution because the rings haven't fully seated yet, and other non-wear contaminants from the assembly lube/sealants used at the factory.

I'd change it now to flush out the crud, and then have the RP tested after 5-7k miles to see how it's holding up. Or, if you want a really fair test of the RP that's not biased by break-in contaminants, I'd leave the factory oil in until 5k miles, then replace it with RP and test the RP 5-7k miles later.