R56 If I'm looking to replace, is there any advantage to hi-fi audio?
#1
If I'm looking to replace, is there any advantage to hi-fi audio?
Im still weighing my options..
from the reviews I hear the hi-fi isnt so hi-fi..
If I plan on having them switched with better speakers.. is there any advantage to having the 10 speaker setup [other than being able to install more speakers]? [ie: better eq, etc...]
Thanks for your help.
from the reviews I hear the hi-fi isnt so hi-fi..
If I plan on having them switched with better speakers.. is there any advantage to having the 10 speaker setup [other than being able to install more speakers]? [ie: better eq, etc...]
Thanks for your help.
#2
#3
#4
#5
Cars are useful listening venues for people creating music. They aren't particularly good for audiophile listening. The Mini has a lot of road noise too.
If your going to replace your system anyways why spend the extra money? Are going to use an aftermarket amp? or just replace speakers? Either way I wouldn't mess with replacing the little tweeters in the A-pillars. They're probably an odd size and require some crazy ohmage. HiFi seems like it would complicate your project.
Your going to need crossovers, amps, speakers... I'm not a car audio guy but why not just buy the HiFi and forget about it. Buy yourself an nice home stereo (2 Speakers and an audiophile amp).
If your going to replace your system anyways why spend the extra money? Are going to use an aftermarket amp? or just replace speakers? Either way I wouldn't mess with replacing the little tweeters in the A-pillars. They're probably an odd size and require some crazy ohmage. HiFi seems like it would complicate your project.
Your going to need crossovers, amps, speakers... I'm not a car audio guy but why not just buy the HiFi and forget about it. Buy yourself an nice home stereo (2 Speakers and an audiophile amp).
#6
I thought the published values in the sticky were rather telling.
The standard audio system's frequency response only goes to 14kHz, which I hope is due to the lack of a proper tweeter. To put that into perspective, that number is a hair worse than FM radio. If you can't hear the difference between FM and CD while driving (interference not withstanding), it probably won't matter to you. If you can't hear that "adult-proof" ringtone, you probably cant sense the difference either. The amp is only rated at 15W per channel, which suggests that it's all coming from the headunit.
The HiFi system on paper is a bit better overall with a proper 20kHz frequency range, and based on sound pressure it's about 6 decibels louder. (The average person would judge a 10 dB change to be twice as loud.)
My concerns with ordering the stock system would be primarily the rated power (figuring you'll have to run it significantly less than that to avoid distortion). Frequency range and loudness might be addressed with some decent high sensitivity speakers such as the latest Infinity Kappa series. (Even though the speakers are rated at 2 ohms, Infinity figures the resistance of the thin OEM wiring will bring the nominal load to about 4 ohms overall. But the headunit would probably still be working a bit more than is normally required.)
Still, I think the best move is to try to a/b some different systems the next time you're at a Mini gathering, and choose something that can handle what you intend to throw at it.
Cheers,
JnC
The standard audio system's frequency response only goes to 14kHz, which I hope is due to the lack of a proper tweeter. To put that into perspective, that number is a hair worse than FM radio. If you can't hear the difference between FM and CD while driving (interference not withstanding), it probably won't matter to you. If you can't hear that "adult-proof" ringtone, you probably cant sense the difference either. The amp is only rated at 15W per channel, which suggests that it's all coming from the headunit.
The HiFi system on paper is a bit better overall with a proper 20kHz frequency range, and based on sound pressure it's about 6 decibels louder. (The average person would judge a 10 dB change to be twice as loud.)
My concerns with ordering the stock system would be primarily the rated power (figuring you'll have to run it significantly less than that to avoid distortion). Frequency range and loudness might be addressed with some decent high sensitivity speakers such as the latest Infinity Kappa series. (Even though the speakers are rated at 2 ohms, Infinity figures the resistance of the thin OEM wiring will bring the nominal load to about 4 ohms overall. But the headunit would probably still be working a bit more than is normally required.)
Still, I think the best move is to try to a/b some different systems the next time you're at a Mini gathering, and choose something that can handle what you intend to throw at it.
Cheers,
JnC
Last edited by JnC; 06-28-2008 at 09:02 AM.
#7
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#8
The HIFI gives you a more powerful amp, and wiring for four tweeters. The A pillars for the HIFI are molded differently. They have a place for tweeters and the wiring for them. The other tweeters are with the rear 6x9 speakers.
Some say the HIFI is OK if you let the speakers break-in. I replaced my HIFI speakers with Infinity Kappas and the sound was much improved.
For the 6" speaker in the door, you want to get a component system with a separate tweeter. The tweeter can go in the A pillar. The 6" speaker is where all the bass is sent. So, a two way speaker there would be a waste. I used Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6-1/2" component speaker system
You don't need a two-way speaker in the 4" door speaker location, but it is difficult to find just a mid-range speaker. I used Infinity Kappa 42.7i 4" 2-way car speakers, but didn't connect the tweeter.
The rear 6x9 speakers don't get much bass for some reason. I'm guessing that they had two much trouble with the plastic panels vibrating. That location does have a tweeter. So, two pair of wires. I used Infinity Kappa 693.7i 6"x9" 3-way car speakers because they have two sets of connectors.
I don't know whether the Infinity Kappas were the best choice, but they have the right 2 ohm specs, are sensitive enough for the power of the HIFI amp, and sound better than stock. Some say Focals are better, but you have to watch that you don't get imitations. JL speakes seem to be a frequent choice of professional installers for $3,000 systems. I don't know if they have the right specs for the built-in amp.
Some say the HIFI is OK if you let the speakers break-in. I replaced my HIFI speakers with Infinity Kappas and the sound was much improved.
For the 6" speaker in the door, you want to get a component system with a separate tweeter. The tweeter can go in the A pillar. The 6" speaker is where all the bass is sent. So, a two way speaker there would be a waste. I used Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6-1/2" component speaker system
You don't need a two-way speaker in the 4" door speaker location, but it is difficult to find just a mid-range speaker. I used Infinity Kappa 42.7i 4" 2-way car speakers, but didn't connect the tweeter.
The rear 6x9 speakers don't get much bass for some reason. I'm guessing that they had two much trouble with the plastic panels vibrating. That location does have a tweeter. So, two pair of wires. I used Infinity Kappa 693.7i 6"x9" 3-way car speakers because they have two sets of connectors.
I don't know whether the Infinity Kappas were the best choice, but they have the right 2 ohm specs, are sensitive enough for the power of the HIFI amp, and sound better than stock. Some say Focals are better, but you have to watch that you don't get imitations. JL speakes seem to be a frequent choice of professional installers for $3,000 systems. I don't know if they have the right specs for the built-in amp.
#9
A Little Messing With The HI FI Controls Helped A Lot
When I took delivery, I hooked up my iPod and drove off. Immediately, I was a bit sick to my stomach because the stereo sounded so bad. I though I made the wrong decision with the up-graded Hi Fi system.
Once I got home, I realized there were changes I could make to really improve the sound
- I turned off the EQ in the iPod. Big Difference.
- I turned off the Volume Limiting Control in the iPod. Some more improvement.
- I realized that I could adjust the volume input from the iPod from the Hi Fi unit.
- I find that my iPod seems to provide more bass than the FM band. I like that you can make separate tone adjustments for the iPod, FM, and CD and that the unit remembers these. I turned down the bass to -2 for the iPod which also helped a lot.
I will admit that this system is still a disappointment, especially since they sell it as a premium upgrade. It is not. My old Dodge Durango had an Infinity system which blows the MINI away. I do miss that. But the above changes really helped the sound in my MINI unit. Give it a try and experiment a bit.
Rich
Once I got home, I realized there were changes I could make to really improve the sound
- I turned off the EQ in the iPod. Big Difference.
- I turned off the Volume Limiting Control in the iPod. Some more improvement.
- I realized that I could adjust the volume input from the iPod from the Hi Fi unit.
- I find that my iPod seems to provide more bass than the FM band. I like that you can make separate tone adjustments for the iPod, FM, and CD and that the unit remembers these. I turned down the bass to -2 for the iPod which also helped a lot.
I will admit that this system is still a disappointment, especially since they sell it as a premium upgrade. It is not. My old Dodge Durango had an Infinity system which blows the MINI away. I do miss that. But the above changes really helped the sound in my MINI unit. Give it a try and experiment a bit.
Rich
#10
Im still weighing my options..
from the reviews I hear the hi-fi isnt so hi-fi..
If I plan on having them switched with better speakers.. is there any advantage to having the 10 speaker setup [other than being able to install more speakers]? [ie: better eq, etc...]
Thanks for your help.
from the reviews I hear the hi-fi isnt so hi-fi..
If I plan on having them switched with better speakers.. is there any advantage to having the 10 speaker setup [other than being able to install more speakers]? [ie: better eq, etc...]
Thanks for your help.
Please read the sticky listed in an above post.
short answer:
more speaker locations
already has an amp (though not really strong) so you CAN just change speakers for much better sound.
If you want to add an aftermarket amp it is much easier with the hi-fi system.
#11
The HIFI gives you a more powerful amp, and wiring for four tweeters. The A pillars for the HIFI are molded differently. They have a place for tweeters and the wiring for them. The other tweeters are with the rear 6x9 speakers.
Some say the HIFI is OK if you let the speakers break-in. I replaced my HIFI speakers with Infinity Kappas and the sound was much improved.
For the 6" speaker in the door, you want to get a component system with a separate tweeter. The tweeter can go in the A pillar. The 6" speaker is where all the bass is sent. So, a two way speaker there would be a waste. I used Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6-1/2" component speaker system
You don't need a two-way speaker in the 4" door speaker location, but it is difficult to find just a mid-range speaker. I used Infinity Kappa 42.7i 4" 2-way car speakers, but didn't connect the tweeter.
The rear 6x9 speakers don't get much bass for some reason. I'm guessing that they had two much trouble with the plastic panels vibrating. That location does have a tweeter. So, two pair of wires. I used Infinity Kappa 693.7i 6"x9" 3-way car speakers because they have two sets of connectors.
I don't know whether the Infinity Kappas were the best choice, but they have the right 2 ohm specs, are sensitive enough for the power of the HIFI amp, and sound better than stock. Some say Focals are better, but you have to watch that you don't get imitations. JL speakes seem to be a frequent choice of professional installers for $3,000 systems. I don't know if they have the right specs for the built-in amp.
Some say the HIFI is OK if you let the speakers break-in. I replaced my HIFI speakers with Infinity Kappas and the sound was much improved.
For the 6" speaker in the door, you want to get a component system with a separate tweeter. The tweeter can go in the A pillar. The 6" speaker is where all the bass is sent. So, a two way speaker there would be a waste. I used Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6-1/2" component speaker system
You don't need a two-way speaker in the 4" door speaker location, but it is difficult to find just a mid-range speaker. I used Infinity Kappa 42.7i 4" 2-way car speakers, but didn't connect the tweeter.
The rear 6x9 speakers don't get much bass for some reason. I'm guessing that they had two much trouble with the plastic panels vibrating. That location does have a tweeter. So, two pair of wires. I used Infinity Kappa 693.7i 6"x9" 3-way car speakers because they have two sets of connectors.
I don't know whether the Infinity Kappas were the best choice, but they have the right 2 ohm specs, are sensitive enough for the power of the HIFI amp, and sound better than stock. Some say Focals are better, but you have to watch that you don't get imitations. JL speakes seem to be a frequent choice of professional installers for $3,000 systems. I don't know if they have the right specs for the built-in amp.
I'm debating whether I want to get the HiFi and (maybe) replace the speakers, or go stock and (probably) replace the speakers.
#13
Right. It's just a high frequency that older people can't hear as the upper limit of hearing drops off with age.
#14
I find the HiFi system to pretty good as far as sound quality goes don't know what all the complaints are, its just as good as the Bose system in my Audis or the Monsoon in my VW. My biggest gripe is it does not go loud at all, many stock systems limit volume, but this one specifically stops it very low.
#15
#16
Awesome, not bad at all. Sounds like the HiFi system is easier to upgrade, so I'll probably go with that (pending a test) and swap out the speakers a bit down the road, when I get tired of hearing the exhaust. :P
#17
I thought the published values in the sticky were rather telling.
The standard audio system's frequency response only goes to 14kHz, which I hope is due to the lack of a proper tweeter. To put that into perspective, that number is a hair worse than FM radio. If you can't hear the difference between FM and CD while driving (interference not withstanding), it probably won't matter to you. If you can't hear that "adult-proof" ringtone, you probably cant sense the difference either. The amp is only rated at 15W per channel, which suggests that it's all coming from the headunit.
The HiFi system on paper is a bit better overall with a proper 20kHz frequency range, and based on sound pressure it's about 6 decibels louder. (The average person would judge a 10 dB change to be twice as loud.)
My concerns with ordering the stock system would be primarily the rated power (figuring you'll have to run it significantly less than that to avoid distortion). Frequency range and loudness might be addressed with some decent high sensitivity speakers such as the latest Infinity Kappa series. (Even though the speakers are rated at 2 ohms, Infinity figures the resistance of the thin OEM wiring will bring the nominal load to about 4 ohms overall. But the headunit would probably still be working a bit more than is normally required.)
Still, I think the best move is to try to a/b some different systems the next time you're at a Mini gathering, and choose something that can handle what you intend to throw at it.
Cheers,
JnC
The standard audio system's frequency response only goes to 14kHz, which I hope is due to the lack of a proper tweeter. To put that into perspective, that number is a hair worse than FM radio. If you can't hear the difference between FM and CD while driving (interference not withstanding), it probably won't matter to you. If you can't hear that "adult-proof" ringtone, you probably cant sense the difference either. The amp is only rated at 15W per channel, which suggests that it's all coming from the headunit.
The HiFi system on paper is a bit better overall with a proper 20kHz frequency range, and based on sound pressure it's about 6 decibels louder. (The average person would judge a 10 dB change to be twice as loud.)
My concerns with ordering the stock system would be primarily the rated power (figuring you'll have to run it significantly less than that to avoid distortion). Frequency range and loudness might be addressed with some decent high sensitivity speakers such as the latest Infinity Kappa series. (Even though the speakers are rated at 2 ohms, Infinity figures the resistance of the thin OEM wiring will bring the nominal load to about 4 ohms overall. But the headunit would probably still be working a bit more than is normally required.)
Still, I think the best move is to try to a/b some different systems the next time you're at a Mini gathering, and choose something that can handle what you intend to throw at it.
Cheers,
JnC
If you really think you can even hear 14 Khz in a car environment you're kidding yourself. Most music has very little energy up that high and it will quickly get masked by even minor road and engine noise.
Then you get into the "can you even hear 14 Khz" bit, I've got access to audio test tone generators and you would be surprised at how hard it is to hear 10 Khz, much less 14 Khz, if you are over 40 and listened to loud music fuggitaboutit...
Also most car stereo specs are not worth the paper they are printed on...a system might say it has 40 Hz to 20 Khz response but without a level specification it means nothing, it might be 18 dB down at 20 Khz which means you'll never hear it in a car.
I'd go with the basic system as that would make modifications easier....MORE SPEAKERS DOES NOT EQUAL BETTER SOUND, it's more a marketing ploy than anything. "10 speaker system" sounds great but with that many sources of sound you get into phase relationships and where you are at in the car makes a huge difference.
The car stereo aftermarket is filled with hype and scheisters so do your shopping carefully, a quality amp rated at "100 watts" probably puts out more sound than a "1000 watt" amp because the "1000 watt amp is rated at some crazy low impedance, with 30% distortion and a host of other unknowns.
I suspect the "Hi Fi" system probably has some unique quirks that make aftermarket installs harder, stuff like 1/2 ohm speakers driven by their own amps, EQ circuits inline that are hard to bypass that kind of stuff.
In the Miata world there is a brisk aftermarket in removing/bypassing/modifying the stock BOSE systems in the LS and MSM models; we even have a term for it, it's called a "Bosectomy", those systems are hard to replace or modify because of all the special components and amps.
Anyway I'll get off my soapbox now...but...
Aren't these cars meant for driving, not listening to the stereo?
Analogeezer
#18
Uhhh frequency response is just ONE of the differences between CD and FM radio.
If you really think you can even hear 14 Khz in a car environment you're kidding yourself. Most music has very little energy up that high and it will quickly get masked by even minor road and engine noise.
Then you get into the "can you even hear 14 Khz" bit, I've got access to audio test tone generators and you would be surprised at how hard it is to hear 10 Khz, much less 14 Khz, if you are over 40 and listened to loud music fuggitaboutit...
Also most car stereo specs are not worth the paper they are printed on...a system might say it has 40 Hz to 20 Khz response but without a level specification it means nothing, it might be 18 dB down at 20 Khz which means you'll never hear it in a car.
I'd go with the basic system as that would make modifications easier....MORE SPEAKERS DOES NOT EQUAL BETTER SOUND, it's more a marketing ploy than anything. "10 speaker system" sounds great but with that many sources of sound you get into phase relationships and where you are at in the car makes a huge difference.
The car stereo aftermarket is filled with hype and scheisters so do your shopping carefully, a quality amp rated at "100 watts" probably puts out more sound than a "1000 watt" amp because the "1000 watt amp is rated at some crazy low impedance, with 30% distortion and a host of other unknowns.
I suspect the "Hi Fi" system probably has some unique quirks that make aftermarket installs harder, stuff like 1/2 ohm speakers driven by their own amps, EQ circuits inline that are hard to bypass that kind of stuff.
In the Miata world there is a brisk aftermarket in removing/bypassing/modifying the stock BOSE systems in the LS and MSM models; we even have a term for it, it's called a "Bosectomy", those systems are hard to replace or modify because of all the special components and amps.
Anyway I'll get off my soapbox now...but...
Aren't these cars meant for driving, not listening to the stereo?
Analogeezer
If you really think you can even hear 14 Khz in a car environment you're kidding yourself. Most music has very little energy up that high and it will quickly get masked by even minor road and engine noise.
Then you get into the "can you even hear 14 Khz" bit, I've got access to audio test tone generators and you would be surprised at how hard it is to hear 10 Khz, much less 14 Khz, if you are over 40 and listened to loud music fuggitaboutit...
Also most car stereo specs are not worth the paper they are printed on...a system might say it has 40 Hz to 20 Khz response but without a level specification it means nothing, it might be 18 dB down at 20 Khz which means you'll never hear it in a car.
I'd go with the basic system as that would make modifications easier....MORE SPEAKERS DOES NOT EQUAL BETTER SOUND, it's more a marketing ploy than anything. "10 speaker system" sounds great but with that many sources of sound you get into phase relationships and where you are at in the car makes a huge difference.
The car stereo aftermarket is filled with hype and scheisters so do your shopping carefully, a quality amp rated at "100 watts" probably puts out more sound than a "1000 watt" amp because the "1000 watt amp is rated at some crazy low impedance, with 30% distortion and a host of other unknowns.
I suspect the "Hi Fi" system probably has some unique quirks that make aftermarket installs harder, stuff like 1/2 ohm speakers driven by their own amps, EQ circuits inline that are hard to bypass that kind of stuff.
In the Miata world there is a brisk aftermarket in removing/bypassing/modifying the stock BOSE systems in the LS and MSM models; we even have a term for it, it's called a "Bosectomy", those systems are hard to replace or modify because of all the special components and amps.
Anyway I'll get off my soapbox now...but...
Aren't these cars meant for driving, not listening to the stereo?
Analogeezer
*shrug*
#20
actually the hi fi makes it much easier to upgrade the system wether you are just changing speakers or ESPECIALLY if you are adding amps.
#21
Uhhh frequency response is just ONE of the differences between CD and FM radio.
If you really think you can
.......... snip snip ..............
because of all the special components and amps.
Anyway I'll get off my soapbox now...but...
Aren't these cars meant for driving, not listening to the stereo?
Analogeezer
If you really think you can
.......... snip snip ..............
because of all the special components and amps.
Anyway I'll get off my soapbox now...but...
Aren't these cars meant for driving, not listening to the stereo?
Analogeezer
Once I get my MINI.
#22
I'm no audiophile for sure, but I know what sounds good to my 46 year old ears. The Bose system in my wife's 97 Maxima and in my 04 FX45 sounds way better than the HiFi in the wifes new Mini (08 MY MCSa). I can't tell you why (maybe the noise in the Mini). The HiFi is the only thing that has disappointed us about the Mini. If changing out the speakers would make a big difference, I would be up for that.
#23
#24
Can't confirm or deny this but one person has posted they replaced the hi-fi amp with some thing aftermarket. They removed the stock amp from the car. When they had their car at the dealer for a software update, the update wouldn't take as the dealer's system didn't see the stock amp.
You may want to leave the stock hi-fi amp in even if you don't have any speakers hooked to it.
I have the hi-fi in mine and think it sounds ok. Depends a lot on the volume you like, what you're use to listening to, and the type of music. Some of my local HD FM stations sound exceptionally good compared to an ipod, cd, etc.
You may want to leave the stock hi-fi amp in even if you don't have any speakers hooked to it.
I have the hi-fi in mine and think it sounds ok. Depends a lot on the volume you like, what you're use to listening to, and the type of music. Some of my local HD FM stations sound exceptionally good compared to an ipod, cd, etc.
#25
I am still waiting for my Mini with the HiFi system. I am already thinking of changing the speakers, but I don't really understand how many I need to change and what sizes to get.
Can somebody on this forum who has pretty good Hifi knowledge post a possible speaker replacement setup that would be economical (not $1000) and sufficient enough for your average music lover. For example: front 2 speakers can be replaced with "insert new speaker brand." Rear 2 speakers can be replaces with "insert new speaker brand"
Sorry if this post is kinda annoying... hahaha I just need some guidance! I'm gonna post this in the audio forum...sorry for the duplicate.
Can somebody on this forum who has pretty good Hifi knowledge post a possible speaker replacement setup that would be economical (not $1000) and sufficient enough for your average music lover. For example: front 2 speakers can be replaced with "insert new speaker brand." Rear 2 speakers can be replaces with "insert new speaker brand"
Sorry if this post is kinda annoying... hahaha I just need some guidance! I'm gonna post this in the audio forum...sorry for the duplicate.
Last edited by Anthony314; 07-23-2008 at 08:31 AM.