Got to a couple mods yesterday...
First the M7 turbo thermal shield (purchased from 1FastMINI)...nicely made and piece of cake to install... only tools you need is a 10 mm socket w/ 5" extension (to remove 2 OEM heat shield bolts) and 5 mm allen wrench to install M7 heat shield bolts.
Exterior...satin black finish matches engine bay color/finish perfectly


Inside showing the "Aerogel is nanotechnology with amazing heat rejection qualities (which is why NASA is also using this material in a variety of applications)"


And installed>>>




Results (using a Raytek MT6 laser thermal reader):
Pre heat shield install (OEM set up)
Turbo exhaust side: 370-450 deg F
Turbo air side: 160 deg F
Under bonnet at scoop: 124 deg F

Post M7 heat shield install
Heat shield housing exterior: 130 deg F
Under bonnet at scoop: 112 deg F

Looks like it is a winner...10% reduction in under bonnet scoop temps


Now to brake pad install... if you have worked on any sliding caliper style brake set up then you know what to expect with the MINI brakes... not difficult at all. Tools needed:
13 mm socket
17 mm open end
13 mm open end or ratchet box
brake cleaner (just if you want to clean calipers up a bit)
Loctite blue


First fronts.. I went with EBC Red (Ceramic) pads since my pads of choice Porterfield does not make R4S pads for the MINI S... there is a outer and inner pad due to brake sensor clip on the inner pad (driver front only)>>


To remove caliper unbolt 13 mm bolt top and bottom (will also require securing retaining nut with 17 mm open end


Of course do not hang caliper by brake line...simple set on top of rotor... EBC pads installed


and caliper re-installed (make sure to use Loctite blue on 13mm bolts...on all caliper bolts)


I have the JCW slotted front rotors that I am sending to have zinc plated and then will switch out OEM rotors to the JCW

Rear pads..
Since I have switched out the pads with less than 200 miles on the car, I did not have any need nor issue with compressing the rear brake caliper piston.

NOTE: if you change out pads with 5000 mile +++ on the pads you will need a piston compression tool that not only compresses but also rotates piston which allows for the piston to be compressed.

You need to use a 13 mm socket (right rear... on left rear due to lower bolt clearance issue will need a 13 mm open end or box ratchet) and a 13 mm open end wrench)

The wire/green device hanging down is the rear brake sensor removed

Now the caliper removed>>

Caliper simply hangs from the emergency brake cable...stiff enough to hold caliper as seen in the pic. Also I treated the brake rotor outer edge with OxySolv to remove rust and leave a zinc phosphate coating...just a 'dress up' thing...hate rusty rotors.

For the rear brakes they too have and inside pad (not sensor clip site) and a outer pad>>


Caliper re-installed... make sure to use Loctite blue on caliper bolts and also note brake sensor (green device)...rear sensor is only on the right rear caliper


That is really it... not hard and just take your time. Oh yes...why switch pads?? Better bite and lower amounts of brake dust

Michael

 

That heat shield looks quite good, and very high quality. Excellent write up

 

That M7 turbo heat shield looks great installed along with the reduced temperature readings seems well worth the investment.

 

thanks for sharing... i have a Q... what does the heat shield do exactly?

 

 

What JCR1960 notes PLUS a safety factor... considering the OEM turbo shield can get very hot (over 220 deg F) and the O2 sensor at the turbo can get to 500+ deg F you really do not want to touch those areas by accident ... after driving about, the M7 turbo shield (which covers over...not encapsulate so air is still moving over turbo...the hot OEM shield and O2 sensor) surface was reading 130 deg F...so a accidental touch is nothing. M7 device is a nice addition...
Michael

 

So the heat's not going to melt your bonnet scoop - but it has to go somewhere. Is there any risk at all to the heat shield? It's not going to, say, inadvertently redirect some super hot air and melt a hose, spraying radiator fluid all over the place, disabling the vehicle just as I was on my way to pick up Natalie Portman for the date she finally gave in to, is it?

 

i agree. that's a nice heat shield, but where does the heat go?

 

Technically the aerogel is going absorb the heat and disperse it. But you have a valid question and concern. We really need some long term information on the product, but all we have at the moment is guinea err I mean early adopters.

 

I agree with what you are saying to a point. I ordered a few of these in for stock and I will do some testing as well. Any results we get, good bad or otherwise we will post up immediately!

Thanks!

 

Seems you and 1FastMINI/M7 need to chat for all of us to hear..always like to hear the real deal
Michael

 

No problem. Any products we add to compliment our own are always internally checked to be sure they meet our standards. We will certainly sell all the ones we ordered, but I want to give you the straight talk on what we find during any and all testing!

Stay tuned!

 

Regarding the brake piston compressor for the rear brakes, are you using the standard tool set that you can get at Harbor Freight or is there one that fits perfectly over the new X shaped piston?

 

compressing calipers can usually be done with inventive use of a flathead screwdriver..

or just your standard run of the mill C clamp.... nothing special required

 

Turbo shield looks promising but Im concerned about overheating the turbo itself and other issues mentioned already. Ill let the other test rats(customers) figure it out.

 

That heat shield does look promising...
So which is more effective: Heat Shield or Turbo Wrap?
I may just have to get one of these, as I live in the Desert which can get pretty toasty...

 

turbos love heat, as long as it is not oil starved there is no issue... thermal coatings do an even better job than these shields..

 

Great details and pics. Thanks MeloR56.

 

Really nice write up....good to see these kinds of posts. I have been thinking about getting that M7 heat sheild...think I am sold, looks clean installed.

 

This write-up was so helpful as I replaced my stock pads. Thank you. I do have two questions: 1) what are torque values for 13mm caliper bolts (or does it really matter)? 2) You did not use any kind of lube on piston surfaces and other metal-to-metal surfaces - do I need to? Especially given that my car is an '08 with only 2,400 miles. Thanks again!

 

Michael

 

Nice pictures & write up..I just installed the M7 heat shield and do not feel much of a diffrence in heat on the hood after running, do you?

 

Thanks for getting back Michael. Now I can head out to the gaqrage and finish up!

 

I think the issue is POINT OF SOURCE of turbo heat and HOW the heat is distributed. The M7 turbo shield distributes heat more evenly rather the OEM set up which can allow turbo heat to concentrate at the hood scoop area, thus my earlier (about 2 months ago) where I measured heat etc>>>


Results (using a Raytek MT6 laser thermal reader):
Pre heat shield install (OEM set up)
Turbo exhaust side: 370-450 deg F
Turbo air side: 160 deg F
Under bonnet at scoop: 124 deg F

Post M7 heat shield install
Heat shield housing exterior: 130 deg F
Under bonnet at scoop: 112 deg F

Looks like it is a winner...10% reduction in under bonnet scoop temps

************************************************

Thats all that I have quantified and trying not to base on subjective views
Michael

 

Did anyone measure the temp of the Turbo itself? Assume that there is no extra cooling air flowing through the Turbo and there is less heat/radiation spreading around the Engine bay (thus the lower engine bay temp), then these heat will be most likely to stay with the Turbo itself.

Lower the intake temp is good, but how much more temp can the turbo take? Yes we have more peak power with colder intake temp, but with a hotter turbo it will most likely reduce the time you can stay on overboost??