R56 $350 oil change at the dealer. Is this normal price?
#26
#27
Cleanest, easiest oil change I have ever done. Drove the car up onto a couple of short 2x6's in the front and was able to slide the drain pan under and reach the drain plug no problem. Not one drop of mess from the filter, cracked it loose and let the engine drain, when I pulled the filter housing no mess at all.
#29
Seriously, the oil change is a breeze, I'd highly recommend just buying the items and doing it yourself. On top of that, if you take it in for the early change, they may reset your OBC or mark it as your yearly change and you could have a problem later trying to get the freebie oil change. Worst case scenario, yes, but still
I'm gonna have to change mine over the winter break here, already hit 10K miles.. yeesh.
I'm gonna have to change mine over the winter break here, already hit 10K miles.. yeesh.
#31
Yep yep. I'd say the hardest part was getting to the filter, and that wasn't terribly difficult either.
#32
Man, you must be skinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnny. I looked under there and there was no way I could get to the plug without the ramps. I probably could have used some boards and gotten under there but not on a flat surface.
#33
#34
I have some Rhino Ramps, they work great. Probably just a boost from some boards would do the trick though. Not difficult at all.
#35
All you need to know, including pictures, is in this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...with-pics.html
Read it and follow the steps. You'll see how easy it is. Autozone, and most other auto parts places, will take the old oil from you to recycle.
Just do it yourself...satisfying and easy.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...with-pics.html
Read it and follow the steps. You'll see how easy it is. Autozone, and most other auto parts places, will take the old oil from you to recycle.
Just do it yourself...satisfying and easy.
#36
#37
#38
8 mm socket for the coolant resevoir.
T-50 Torx bit for the drain plug.
1 1/8" socket,w/ 6" extension, for the oil filter.
#39
No, it's a piece of cake. You take ONE screw out and move the tank over to get down to the filter case. You can't mess it up. It's attached to the lip. After you take the screw out, tilt it up and it will come right off. Putting it back is easier than taking it off. Honestly.
#40
#41
I am reassured, thank you.
Now, the question is, I had the dealer change the oil at 2800 miles. I think there was 13000 on my service computer. Should I change it before then?
I put about 300 miles per week on the car, so I don't think I'll make it to the year oil change before I need the full service.
Any other variables that I need to consider?
Now, the question is, I had the dealer change the oil at 2800 miles. I think there was 13000 on my service computer. Should I change it before then?
I put about 300 miles per week on the car, so I don't think I'll make it to the year oil change before I need the full service.
Any other variables that I need to consider?
#42
#43
I am reassured, thank you.
Now, the question is, I had the dealer change the oil at 2800 miles. I think there was 13000 on my service computer. Should I change it before then?
I put about 300 miles per week on the car, so I don't think I'll make it to the year oil change before I need the full service.
Any other variables that I need to consider?
Now, the question is, I had the dealer change the oil at 2800 miles. I think there was 13000 on my service computer. Should I change it before then?
I put about 300 miles per week on the car, so I don't think I'll make it to the year oil change before I need the full service.
Any other variables that I need to consider?
#44
I am reassured, thank you.
Now, the question is, I had the dealer change the oil at 2800 miles. I think there was 13000 on my service computer. Should I change it before then?
I put about 300 miles per week on the car, so I don't think I'll make it to the year oil change before I need the full service.
Any other variables that I need to consider?
Now, the question is, I had the dealer change the oil at 2800 miles. I think there was 13000 on my service computer. Should I change it before then?
I put about 300 miles per week on the car, so I don't think I'll make it to the year oil change before I need the full service.
Any other variables that I need to consider?
Just my .02$. The cost isn't that great, and I don't think more frequent oil changes will harm anything (so long as you don't do something like leave the drain plug out when you fill it back up )
#45
Actually, there is a torque requirement. Its written on the oil filter housing. Its 25 N*m which is about 18.5 ft-lbs. The filter housing is made of plastic and it would be easy to strip the threads if you over tighten.
#46
Just don't over-tighten it. Snug it down by hand and then add another half turn with the socket driver. I'm on my second MINI oil change and I didn't use a torque wrench on either. I've changed the oil on many cars that "required" certain torque but never used a torque wrench.
#47
The Oil Filter Cannister took a 27mm short socket (1 1/16" is same size) and without the Turbocharger,
no need to move Coolant Tank or need the 6" extension.
Clearance from a flat floor to the drain plug is about five inches and it would be worthwhile to drive up on wood blocks
(avoid brick or concrete as they could shatter).
Torque wrench should be used to tighten; 22 ft/lb on Drain and 18.5 for Filter Cannister,
Torque is more critical for wheel lugs at 103 ft/lb.
#50
I called the Long Beach Mini. The service dept. told me that the oil change is $99. Only thing is that they will not work on the car that has only 5000 miles on it. She said something like the corporate MINI do not allow them to perform oil change on the car that is not ready for due for service. Now, what is up with South Bay MINI trying to charge me $350 for an oil change.