R56 Oil Change interval
#226
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I'm with Robin. I changed my oil at around 800 miles, as an engine experiences the most wear upon break-in, and I didn't want all that metal floating around in my engine for the next year. I'll probably change my oil every 7500 miles or so. 15K, particularly on the first change, is too long, I think. Especially the way I drive.
Last edited by koitus; 12-19-2009 at 03:13 PM. Reason: brain fart
#227
Would you trust the marketing department and accountants. It may not have been the engineers who made the decision on oil intervals. There are very strong market forces pushing towards long intervals. It also costs MINI less money in the free service period to extend the interval as long as possible. At best, the decision was a compromise between marketing forces, costs, and engineering considerations.
I ran my 02 for nearly 100,000 miles changing when the computer said to .... never used any oil and MPG never changed....no leaks . . .
Did it blow up 3 weeks after I sold it?????
Did it blow up 3 weeks after I sold it?????
If you do a little research on the web you can find a quote from the CEO of Jiffy Lube's mother company speaking at an industry conference where he states that extended life oils are the greatest threat to their industry - oil changers . . .
Can U hurt your car changing the oil way more then required? NO
Can you waste money and add waste oil to the environmental problem? Yes
Can you waste money and add waste oil to the environmental problem? Yes
Not changing the oil often enough is also a waste and an environmental problem. Not changing the oil often enough causes unnecessary wear in the engine. This shortens its life. Building a car puts tremendous stress on the envirnoment from mining and refining of steel aluminum, and other metals. Then there are the plastics and other materials. A lot of energy is also consumed in recycling, and building.
The best solution is to find the optimum interval. The best way to do that is to have the oil analyzed.
#228
Oil OK, Filter NOT!
Did my first DIY oil change at 17K with 6K on the oil. Blackstone said the elevated levels of copper and silicon indicated an engine that was still breaking in (!). They said a shorter change interval would speed things up, but that my current 6K interval was no problem. This sort of falls in line with a paper I read a couple years ago in R & T. The new synthetic oils are quite capable of 15K, but the filters are not. 7.5K is about it before the filter goes to bypass mode. Doing a test for Blackstone on the current oil as I installed a Dimple Super Magnet sump plug. They and I are curious to see the effect on iron content on next change. First analysis showed 48 with normal being 34. Will let you know, if I remember.
Last edited by Dwight Walhood; 12-20-2009 at 09:05 AM. Reason: Typo
#229
#231
#238
The reference is from Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute -- science, not politics.
#239
#241
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Yes, the filter gets changed too. You can take it someplace to have it changed, but it's not that hard to change it yourself. Depends whether you're comfortable doing it, or feeling adventurous enough to learn. Here's a thread that has a pretty good explanation (with pictures) of what's involved
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...with-pics.html
Basically, you
1) get a catch-basin for the oil and put it under the drain plug (bottom of the oil pan)
2) remove the drain plug (T50 socket or wrench) and let the oil drain into the basin
3) loosen (but don't remove yet) the oil filter cover (27mm socket)
4) let the oil drain out for 20 minutes or so
5) remove the filter cover (the filter comes out with it)
6) remove the filter cover gasket and replace the filter
7) torque down the filter cover to factory spec (18.5 lb/ft)
8) get the copper ring that was included in your filter packaging, fish out the drain plug, remove the old ring (it should be flat, like a washer) and replace it with the new one.
9) torque down the drain plug to factory spec (22 lb/ft)
10) fill the engine with fresh oil, about 5.5 quarts
11) wait a few minutes, then check to make sure nothing is dripping/leaking
12) start the car for 30 sec or so, then shut off and make sure nothing's leaking
13) drive around the block, then make sure nothing's leaking
14) crack a frosty beverage of your choice (but make sure you wait until you're completely done, or things could get real ugly)
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...with-pics.html
Basically, you
1) get a catch-basin for the oil and put it under the drain plug (bottom of the oil pan)
2) remove the drain plug (T50 socket or wrench) and let the oil drain into the basin
3) loosen (but don't remove yet) the oil filter cover (27mm socket)
4) let the oil drain out for 20 minutes or so
5) remove the filter cover (the filter comes out with it)
6) remove the filter cover gasket and replace the filter
7) torque down the filter cover to factory spec (18.5 lb/ft)
8) get the copper ring that was included in your filter packaging, fish out the drain plug, remove the old ring (it should be flat, like a washer) and replace it with the new one.
9) torque down the drain plug to factory spec (22 lb/ft)
10) fill the engine with fresh oil, about 5.5 quarts
11) wait a few minutes, then check to make sure nothing is dripping/leaking
12) start the car for 30 sec or so, then shut off and make sure nothing's leaking
13) drive around the block, then make sure nothing's leaking
14) crack a frosty beverage of your choice (but make sure you wait until you're completely done, or things could get real ugly)
#242
#243
Yes, the filter gets changed too. You can take it someplace to have it changed, but it's not that hard to change it yourself. Depends whether you're comfortable doing it, or feeling adventurous enough to learn. Here's a thread that has a pretty good explanation (with pictures) of what's involved
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...with-pics.html
Basically, you
1) get a catch-basin for the oil and put it under the drain plug (bottom of the oil pan)
2) remove the drain plug (T50 socket or wrench) and let the oil drain into the basin
3) loosen (but don't remove yet) the oil filter cover (27mm socket)
4) let the oil drain out for 20 minutes or so
5) remove the filter cover (the filter comes out with it)
6) remove the filter cover gasket and replace the filter
7) torque down the filter cover to factory spec (18.5 lb/ft)
8) get the copper ring that was included in your filter packaging, fish out the drain plug, remove the old ring (it should be flat, like a washer) and replace it with the new one.
9) torque down the drain plug to factory spec (22 lb/ft)
10) fill the engine with fresh oil, about 5.5 quarts
11) wait a few minutes, then check to make sure nothing is dripping/leaking
12) start the car for 30 sec or so, then shut off and make sure nothing's leaking
13) drive around the block, then make sure nothing's leaking
14) crack a frosty beverage of your choice (but make sure you wait until you're completely done, or things could get real ugly)
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...with-pics.html
Basically, you
1) get a catch-basin for the oil and put it under the drain plug (bottom of the oil pan)
2) remove the drain plug (T50 socket or wrench) and let the oil drain into the basin
3) loosen (but don't remove yet) the oil filter cover (27mm socket)
4) let the oil drain out for 20 minutes or so
5) remove the filter cover (the filter comes out with it)
6) remove the filter cover gasket and replace the filter
7) torque down the filter cover to factory spec (18.5 lb/ft)
8) get the copper ring that was included in your filter packaging, fish out the drain plug, remove the old ring (it should be flat, like a washer) and replace it with the new one.
9) torque down the drain plug to factory spec (22 lb/ft)
10) fill the engine with fresh oil, about 5.5 quarts
11) wait a few minutes, then check to make sure nothing is dripping/leaking
12) start the car for 30 sec or so, then shut off and make sure nothing's leaking
13) drive around the block, then make sure nothing's leaking
14) crack a frosty beverage of your choice (but make sure you wait until you're completely done, or things could get real ugly)
Ah, better make that 4.5Qts on the re-fill. Also, get the engine fully warmed up before starting the change and then let cool down till it don't burn ya. You might look into a Dimple Super Magnet drain plug while you're at it. If you plan to continue DIY oil changes, get a couple ramps (~$35 @ Kragen). You'll get better drainage of the old stuff that way.
#246
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Ah, better make that 4.5Qts on the re-fill. Also, get the engine fully warmed up before starting the change and then let cool down till it don't burn ya. You might look into a Dimple Super Magnet drain plug while you're at it. If you plan to continue DIY oil changes, get a couple ramps (~$35 @ Kragen). You'll get better drainage of the old stuff that way.
#247
The recommendation I've heard is to drive the car for five minutes to warm and stir up the oil before a change.
Before you remove the drain plug, open the oil filler cap to allow air into the system.
Rubber gloves are highly recommended when removing the drain plug. Heavy Bluettes help insulate your hands from the hot oil.
Some MINIs will take an 8mm Allen wrench for the drain plug.
3) On the MCS you need to move the coolant overflow tank. It has an 8mm hex screw then unhooks. Don't disconnect the tubes, just move it out of the way.
I think you mean 4.5 quarts. Although, some dealers fill it with 5 quarts, which puts the level about 1/4" (or more) above the to line on the dipstick.
Replacing the filter is important. The filter probably gives out before the oil does.
Rubber gloves are highly recommended when removing the drain plug. Heavy Bluettes help insulate your hands from the hot oil.
Some MINIs will take an 8mm Allen wrench for the drain plug.
3) On the MCS you need to move the coolant overflow tank. It has an 8mm hex screw then unhooks. Don't disconnect the tubes, just move it out of the way.
10) fill the engine with fresh oil, about 5.5 quarts
Replacing the filter is important. The filter probably gives out before the oil does.
#248
I changed my oil yesterday and put the o-ring in wrong place on canster and it made a mess . Just re-placed it and it was very easy job to do ! I did buy some rhino ramps from local auto store which lifted the cooper just the right height to change the oil . Now im set for oil changes for the life of my cooper = just buy filters on line and oil at local auto store ! Easy job if i can do it !
El Tiger
El Tiger
#249
New car oil change
Got an '09 MCS and talked to the dealer service dept to see when I should come in for my first oil change, he said when the light comes on, which can be between 12 and 15,000 miles! Skeptical, I ranted about it and he said if I feel more comfortable I can change it earlier...anyway, I had 6000 miles on it and decided to do my "break in" oil change now, well,the oil was black and the filter was black! So I'm just posting that I highly recommend at least the first oil change should be done sooner than they say...I used Castrol Edge (get the 5 gal bottle its cheaper) and put in 4.4 quarts...
Feeling better now...happy revving
Feeling better now...happy revving
#250
I would suggest changing your oil every 5,000 miles with synthetic oil (or 1 year, whichever comes sooner). Waiting 12,000 to 15,000 miles may do more damage to the engine/ build up sludge in the engine. For the first oil change some mini owners have done the first oil change at 3,000 miles, then between 5,000 and 7,500 miles for regular oil changes.
Good Luck with your 09 and have fun.
Good Luck with your 09 and have fun.