Silverbullet,

What your service department told you is not necessarily true. You can come in based on the computer if you rack up a lot of miles or one year from the purchase date of your vehicle. Ex. I bought my car in February of 2009. It has less than 3900 miles on it. I will be going in for service next month, covered by the service agreement.

I read an article a while back where Bavarian Autosport recommends doing an oil change at 7500 tops. I don't think it necessarily had to do with the oil but more to do with the filter.

 

Change it and have a safe feeling ! Also you might extend your Mini for future life ! Motor On !

 

Hey I thought I read somewhere that you should only have your oil changed at the dealer. Is this true? Just curious, how much should an oil change cost if not free at the dealer. Thanks in advance

 

Hey MeanAndMellow, you can change it outside of the dealer, I did it myself at my friends shop. They say full synthetic oil is supposed to last 15,000 miles but the oil filter dosen't ..the cost is a little pricey...I dont know how much anyone else would charge for it, but dont go to like Jiffy lube, I'm sure they wont have the correct filter, and you need to have the recommended oil for it (in the manual)...Not sure where to advise you to go..check out more threads...Good luck!

 

MeanANDMellowMini
It cost from $80 bucks and up depending on your dealership = way too much on a easy job you can do your self . For the $80 bucks i purchased a set of rhino ramps to put my cooper on because its so low & 2 oil filters & oil cap scoket to get it off On internet Mini Mania.com . Purchased oil form local to match required oil by mini & i ready for the future oil changes on my new 09 cooper ! I have read on a few post of their coppers engine had failed because of slug =they did not change their oil but once a year & when warrenty ran out the engine failed Hum . I would say change the oil at least 2 times a year or every 7000 miles or so ! Better to be safe tham sorry !In in my Mini for the long haul . El Tiger Happy Motoring

 

If you don't want to do it yourself, have your dealer do it, or find an independent garage that has an excellent reputation for MINI work. Your local club may know who to go to. I had a very bad experience with Jiffy Lube and another car. I would never go to a quick lube place. They claim they know exactly what they are doing, but they don't know the particulars for your MINI.

There are some good DIY oil change threads here with photos and all sorts of tips. I won't repeat it all, but some of the main points:

Use a synthetic oil that meets BMW LL-01, or ACEA A3 specs. Very few 5W-30 oils in the USA do. My choice would be Castrol Syntec 0W-30 European Formula. Some like Mobil 1 0W-40, but this seems like too thick an oil for winter use (the 0W in 0W-40 does not mean the same thing as it does in 0W-30 for some reason). MINI branded 5W-30 oil is often the least expensive BMW LL-01 oil available. BMW branded 5W-30 is the same stuff, but sometimes the BMW brand costs more. Made for BMW by Castrol. Penzoil, and others make one or two LL-01 oils that would work in MINIs.

Use the OEM filter. It is white and comes with a rubber O-ring for the filter, and a copper cursh washer for the drain plug. Both are important. There have been reports that the yellow German filters have broken down. If you use the "Genuine BMW Part" filter MINI wont be able blame it if you have warranty problems.

Use an 8mm socket to remove the one screw holding the coolant overflow tank on the MCS. Unhook the tank and move it aside (hoses still attached) for better access to the oil filter. Not so much of an issue with an MC.

The oil filter housing takes a 27mm socket, but a 1-1/16" will fit. Don't over-tighten the filter housing, it is plastic and can break. Proper torque is 18.5 ft-lbs. To minimize oil spill when removing the filter, loosen just enough to break the seal and allow to drain before loosening further. It might help to open the top filler cap.

Wear rubber gloves when removing the drain plug on the bottom of the engine. Make sure you have the engine oil plug and not the transmission plug. Always use a new copper crush washer. Torque it to 22 ft-lbs.

Always recycle your oil. Many gas stations, garages, auto supply stores, and Jiffy Lube will accept old oil for recycling. Ask about filter collection. In California you can get recycle containers and most trash collections services will pick it and the old filter up. Used oil does serious damage to the environment. If you eat fish, you don't want it getting into the oceans. If you live inland, you don't wan the heavy metals, and other nasties getting into the land and ground water.

 

As your engine is breaking in, it will load up with "wear metals". When there gets to be too much metal in the oil, it becomes abrasive. The filter saturates and the oil bypasses it. The build-up rate decreases gradually over the first 30,000 miles. IMO, your first oil change should be fairly soon after delivery. I did mine at 1,600 miles. Next could be after an additional 5,000 miles. You may be able to stretch it out to 8,000 or 10,000 mile later on. The only way to know for sure is to have it analyzed. You can get this done by labs like Blackstone for about $25 with shipping. They will send you a free collection kit. You send it back with used oil and payment. They will give you a report with the quantities of a number of contaminants and a recommendation for the next oil change interval.

 

I changed mine at 3,500 miles and it was very dirty like how you described yours. Glad I did it.

 

1.) Looking at the color of the oil or filter to determine if the oil needs to be changed, is beyond stupid. Color has nothing to do with an oil's performance. This ain't the 60's and dino oil we're talking about here...

2.) I changed the oil in my '10MCS at 1500 miles, and plan on sending a sample to Blackstone lab at 6500 miles. (5K more) and see what they say. Then again, I have a lift in my garage and it's easy to do...lol

3.) It's entirly possible that the oil change interval might will be 15K miles or more, with a filter change at 7500. Many over the road tractors have change intervals of 25K miles, and they have a lot more nasty stuff happening to the oil. soot, fuel contamination, severe duty... (sorry, I was a trucking operations manager in a previous life...) With today's synthitic oils, it's possible that if you have to add oil between changes, the oil itself may NEVER have to be changed. (not talking about filter) The TBN, flash point, and additive package may show it's still useable.

 

It could very well be that the oil will last that long with filter changes. Since you would lose a little oil with the filter change, that might be enough to keep the additive levels sufficient, even if it doesn't need oil added between changes. My MCS doesn't seem to lose oil between changes.

How much oil is in the sump of a road tracktor?

Porsches have long oil change intervals, but they carry 8-9 qts of oil--twice what the MINI carries. They may also have more surface area in the filter (not sure about that part).

 

change your oil every 1000 miles

rotate your tires every 500

can't hurt anything

change the air filter at 100

the builder is just trying to get you to trash your car

brake pads and rotors .. don't go over 2000 .... don't trust what THEY tell you.

Tires ... YOU DON'T BELIEVE wear bars do you???? Heck no ....

Run Flats ACH .... a communist threat .....

ran my 02 for over 90,000 doing everything by the computer where computer applied and by seat of the pants tests otherwise (02 ain't got no brake pad wear sensors.) Ran as good the day I sold it as it did on day 1 .... maybe better. Why'd I sell? Sometimes I wonder . . .

oil color don't mean squat .... engines today don't throw off the metal flakes a 'new' motor did 40 years ago. HOT motor oil changes color from out of the bottle.

My 79 is going strong .... I guess I'm doing something right ....

if it makes you feel good to do it sooner be relieved it makes the oil and oil filter companies and even Jiffy Lube feel better too.

 

Let me start off by saying I'm old school when it comes to cars. I don't understand these new cars much but I'm willing to learn and getting more frugal each day.

My sales person sold me on this free service thing that MINI offers. He insisted that I shouldn't change the oil in my car until it hits 15k miles. While I'm all for getting away without paying for these, Why should I NOT change the oil every 5k miles or one year? Why should I wait for the 15K to change it for the first time (and maybe each time thereafter).

I understand that technology is now better than my 40 year old 'toy' car but I also want to make sure my MINI last me as long as possible.

Thanks,

 

IMO, I would trust your instincts. Changing the oil is easy (see the threads that cover the process). Either Moss Mini or Morristown MINI has 3 OEM filters for $25 dollars. I highly recommend that you remove the OEM oil plug and replace it with a 16mm (I think) one with a head on it so you can remove it with a 6 point socket or open/closed end wrench. I've changed my oil 3 times and will soon do it the 4th time; this is before the one-year checkup. Good luck!

 

I do a mid spaced oil change with the approprate oil and filter half way between the reccomended ones, just don't re-set the computer. Ever gone to see Pete over at Greasy's garage in worchester (sorry about the spelling) mass...he is a great Mini guy with tons of knowdledge...a great non dealer place to get stuff done...great rates too!!

 

1.) Mini will change the oil yearly or when the computer says.

2.) 15K miles is probably too long for the oil filter.

3.) I performed the first change on my 2010 Mini S at 1500 miles, and will send a oil sample to Blackstone labs, at about 7K miles and see how it's doing. I'll probably change the filter at that time too.

 

Ok, that's what I thought. My car just turned 3k so I think I'll look into getting something done soon. I've heard of Greasy's Garage but "Wusta" is about twice the distance of MINI of Peabody for me. If his prices are way better, then I may give him a try and drop the family off at the in-laws in Lancaster.

 

It is by no means a fancy shop....that could be changing...but if you go on the right day....it will be filled with MINI people and MINI's of different ages (some getting work done, some just showing up to hanging out and talk!)...when I has my struts done last week, I ended up staying till well after lunch, just talking and laughing about car stuff, etc with a few guys from MassMotoringClub and Pete himself....it was actually quite fun! Motoring at its finest (out of a car that is).

 

Any clue to "the right day"?

 

It is not necessary and you can use the money for something else.

 

Surfblue replies:

Yes, you can use money for something else...like repairing your prematurely worn engine. Read on...
I have a great independent BMW/Mercedes/european car mechanic two blocks from my house. He's a lifelong enthusiast; runs autocross etc. I was telling him about my oil change schedule since new (1500 miles, every five to six thousand after that)...he smiled and said, "Oil is comparatively cheap. That engine is not." He also felt that the filter will no way make it to those big miles that BMW says we can run to. We also discussed the amount of heat developed by the engine, and the role of heat in rapidly diminishing the proper characteristics of your motor oil.
Before you change your oil (any of you readers), you might want to run DIMPLE MAGNETIC OIL DRAIN PLUG. He's running a special. You can get the TWO required for your tranny, and the one for your engine on a two for three deal...runs around $49.
Just tryin' to help....

 

+1 --> 5K - 7K miles with synthetic oil and a new filter is a good idea.

 

Just changed my 2010 MCS oil at 2200 miles and I have to say that it was a PITA, compared to the 20 odd vehicles that I've owned over the years. Doable, but still a PITA. Looking at the miniscule sized filter, I cannot believe that it could make it to 15,000 miles and still be functioning.

 

Need an 8mm Hex bit for the plug and a New Copper Crush Ring (comes with factory filter kit, along with 'O' Ring for filter case).

Easiest oil change I have ever done on any car, and I have done a lot of them.

 

Saturday till noon, and most likely Friday afternoons....but you can get luckey anytime!!
Pete only has 2 bays in his current location, but it is a tempory setup. His shop has quite a following, and he is an very honest guy. He also will install upgraded performance parts on owners cars when the owners carry them in. Bigger swaybars, pulleys on gen1 cars, intakes, coilovers, you name it...they do it.

 

Did my first oil and filter change at 1,600 miles. Second change 5,200 miles later. Sent oil from the second change off to Blackstone for standard analysis ($22.50) + TBN ($10.00, an indicator for level of remaining additives). It showed I could have waited one or two K more miles for the second, but not much longer.

Someone posted results of a test done at 12,500 miles before first oil change. Blackstone said that the metal content of the oil was such that the oil had become abrasive.

IMO, waiting 15,000 miles for the first oil change is a very bad idea. You might be able to get away with that interval when the car is fulling broken in at about 30,000 miles, but that still may be pushing it. While modern synthetic oils might be able to go the distance, I doubt the filter can. When the filter becomes clogged, oil simply bypasses it, so no filtration occurs.

I suspect that the long oil change intervals recommended by MINI are in a large part due to marketing pressures in Europe.