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R56 whats it worth

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  #1  
Old 06-01-2010, 04:21 AM
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whats it worth

well gen 2 guys...im new to nam like a week or more ago lol...
just bought a r53 (litteraly less than 2 weeks ago) and its sporty
but not enough torque and some issues i didnt like at all
(the supercharger issue...no supercharger upgrades:/) i would have to run spray to get the torque i would of wanted lol...and refills would kill me:p

i now own a R56 6 speed manual! (traded the R53)
so here it is
let me know what its worth or is i should go with a differnt part!

M7 aerogel heat shield
M7 ram2 hood scoop
M7 under strut system
M7 oil catch can
Helix FMIC
OS GIKEN sure lock LSD
Spec stage 2+ clutch
Mini Madness 14.5lb flywheel (i want the M7 flywheel but cant find it????)
Alta boost tubes (red for hot & blue for cold)
Alta 22mm rear sway bar
Alsta boost port adapter
Alta PSRS
Alta sway bar endlinks (front & rear)
Alta rear control arms (2 sets upper and lower)
Alta power pack #1 (Catback Exhaust, Cold air intake and Boost Gauge with Pod)
Alta PWI-2 meth injection (91 octane in cali:/ GAYY...so for weekends when i run hard...i can do it be safe lol)
Braille 15lb battery (how much does the stock battery weigh?)
BSH lower motor mount
Megan Racing coilover w/ adjustable camber plates
TCE Wilwood plus 1 brake kit (11.75" rotors, kits fit 15" wheels)
OBX downpipe
Riss Racing 02 simulator


im gonna run 15x7 wheels with 205/50/15's!
any pics of R56 on 15's?

and also a RMW or Mynes tune probably....unless theres better?

maybe a 35-50 shot when i run out of motor against the gt500 down the street & the 11.3 k20 crx lol??
also procrastinating on a TPR-1 style (R56) head mild port/titanium retainers/inconel oversized exhaust valves (it would be a custom pay to have down thing i guess)


so end hp and tq number guys?
im shooting for 275ft.lbs. for sure (on motor...maybe more on meth and then more if i run funny gas)
horsepower idc lol imma torque man

im sure i would hang with the sti's or evo's with these parts? from a roll of course lol!
also these R56 with exhaust sound like a WRX and its AMAZING
 

Last edited by k.w; 06-01-2010 at 05:31 AM.
  #2  
Old 06-01-2010, 04:32 AM
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so far for all the parts i have listed...excluding the head,wheels & tires....

the price is just shy of 10k
9970 actually but i know i can get a few second hand parts also ALTA are great guys and when i WAS gonna buy R53 parts they gave me a nice deal.
since ill buy all my parts at once im sure they would do the same here...

so i could probably get down to like 9500 maybe(id rather over calulate lol)
then some labor of couse for what i cant do and then a tune
so like 12k tops which i dont think is to bad at all!


and ill have on very screaming R56 hopefully
 
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Old 06-01-2010, 05:04 AM
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So what exactly is your question?
 
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Old 06-01-2010, 05:25 AM
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how much power would be expected???


is there different parts i should use???
as seeing this is my second mini in less than a month lol...im entirely new to minis...the first couldnt cut it power wise lol
so now im going for some power and alot more suspension work....

and input on meth injector and also
could the trans and engine hold up a 50 shot maybe 2 times a week?
with maintaince done regualary?


also has anyone run 15's on a r56 yet?
 

Last edited by k.w; 06-01-2010 at 05:32 AM.
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Old 06-01-2010, 05:56 AM
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You really need to define what your goals are. If you are into stop light Gran Prix's you probably bought the wrong car. You are never going to get the thing to do 0-60 in 4 seconds. It's about driving.
 
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:03 AM
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lol i did state what i wanted..
you kinda misunderstood

sure light to light messing around is cool.
but i bought the mini because of its handling but whos to say you cant have a little of both worlds?
thats why they have gt25 swaps and such...
and notice my mod list has almost a entire suspension overhaul...besides afew things here and there...

i want my car for canyon runs on the weekends and to be able to hang with some of the bigger dogs (11.3 k20 swapped crx...and those srt4 i always see lol)
(yes canyon racing is dangerous and stupid but im having fun while i can and we have scouts to watch for other motorists...dont overdrive yourself or the car and you will be fine)

you know its kinda saticfiing when your in a 1.6l turbo car and can hang with evo's, sti's, srt4, k20's its nice to know when you wanna move you can and the fact people usually dont expect a mini cooper to give em a run for there money


now if you would like it more direct here it is...

has anyone run 15's on a r56 yet? is there pictures? (because i cant find any)
how much power would be expected with the mods listed and tune?
is there different parts i should use other than the ones listed? (company or anything)
would a mild head be worth the price?
and would the R56 trans and engine take a 50 shot a couple times a week?

thats basicly what was asked if you read it the right way and look for the questions marks
 

Last edited by k.w; 06-01-2010 at 06:26 AM.
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:30 AM
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I am not sure but I dont think you can run any 15' on the MCS. The front brake calipers are too big. I know this is true for stock rims for sure.
 
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Old 06-01-2010, 08:07 AM
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well thats why i was looking at the wilwood plus 1 kit
i would get better brakes and be able to run 15's
there plus 2 kit can also clear 15's

i havent seen anyone with a R56 on 15's yet but i guess if im gonna do those brakes ill be the first

hopefully with that brake kit i can get the
enkei rpf1's to work lol
at 9.8 pounds i think they are among the lightest!

i got a set from my gsr and they wouldnt fit on the R53 because i tie rod bolt i think!
but with that BBK and maybe some spacers it will work
 
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Old 06-01-2010, 08:08 AM
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but thank you because you did clear upthe fact that no15's would fit with stock brakes lol...
which is what i wanted to know before buying the wilwood kit!

thank you sir.
 
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:15 PM
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If you get to 220 at the wheels I will be impressed. Many of us have nicely modded JCW cars with the RMW tune and we are not seeing above 225 to the wheels. The car is not capable of going higher. Its a little 1.6l engine with a little turbo. Even those that went with a bigger turbo are not seeing much more becuase it can't be properly tuned at this time.

You want a faster car? Better buy something else.
 
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:51 PM
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15s are just to small for a MCS the brakes are to big plus you don't want to decrease brake size you will never forgive yourself. And if you spray, you could get away with 50-75 shot on the motor(more if you upgrade internals) which is the best bang for the buck. This list looked alright but bolt-ons are not going to really help you see big power. Helix is working on something right now where they upgraded the compressor wheel and added some other breathing help to include their intercooler. When I talked to them at the Dragon they said off of 8 psi they were getting about 250ish. The ECU is what is holding back the MINI(damn you BMW).
 
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:11 AM
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lol how big are stock R56 rotors?
not the JCW brakes the regular ones?

i was under the assumption that the wilwood plus 1 kit would be bigger and better...i can also get the uprated rotors i think 12.2" and they will still clear some 15's
 
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Old 06-02-2010, 02:20 AM
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Stock front rotors are 12.6" on the R56 S.
 
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Old 06-02-2010, 02:38 AM
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so no 15's for me lol
 
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Old 06-02-2010, 02:39 AM
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I think you will find that the front rotors on the R56 S are 11.5 inch (294mm)
And the front rotors on the R56 JCW are 12.4 inch (316mm)
 
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Old 06-02-2010, 02:50 AM
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If you really do want 15" rims, your only sensible option is to, purchase the front caliper carriers from the R56 Cooper and the front rotors 11.02 inch (280mm) to match, as the calipers are the same on the Cooper and the Cooper S models, then you will be able to fit your desired 15"rims, then get yourself a good compound brake pad, (Carbotech) and away you go.
 
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Old 06-02-2010, 05:12 AM
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lol ya i feel it would be better to run 15's
idk i love the look
also cheaper tires and rims a little more get up and go and less weight!

i think its a win win?
 
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Old 06-02-2010, 06:08 AM
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For what you are talking about a little bit bigger wheel (ie 16) with a mid to low profile would be better. And are you really going to offset the price that much by having to change out rotors, calipers, pads, and brake lines possibly even the hub for just cheaper wheels and tires. I don't know sounds like its going to take you a long time to break even on that deal.
 
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Old 06-02-2010, 07:03 AM
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gotta think bigger man lol...
rims would be cheap
tires would be cheaper also


so if i plan on keeping the car which i do for a very long time...
then all in all i belive it would pay for itself quite quick
and i plan on running Kumho Ecsta XS (205/50/15 = $368)

while if i ran 17's (becaue theres not to many extreme tires for 16's)
if i ran 17's it would be (215/45/17 = $468) for the same exact tire!
think about it that way...lol plus less weight so maybe even a mpg bump idk...dont really care if i get that or not
but less weight and smaller tires = less cash in the long run and even more getup and go....plus i canyon race alot so less turning diamiter and whatever else could be nice.


but my plans as of now are to stay on 17's for a while
2 sets or 17x7
Enkei racing RPF1 et42 (14.6lbs) wrapped in 215/40/17 kumho ecsta MX
for the weekends when im running hard

and Motegi Racing SP10 et40mm (17.0lbs) wrapped in (215/45/17)continental extreme contact DW
little bigger sidewall for comfort lol!
i figured i should wait on doing the swap and do performance and suspenion first!
 
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Old 06-02-2010, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Porthos
by having to change out rotors, calipers, pads, and brake lines possibly even the hub
To run a 15" rim, as I have already said, all you need is to purchase the R56 Cooper caliper carriers and the 11.02 (280mm) rotors, and pads to suit, there is no difference between the Cooper and the Cooper S, when comparing the following, the calipers are the same, the hub carriers are the same and the hubs themselves are the same too.
 
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Old 06-02-2010, 09:47 AM
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Hey I am just saying that much work to run a 1in smaller wheel. IMO its not worth it. You are increasing the sidewall by running the 15s(205/50/r16s) by about 1/2" compared to the 16s(205/45/r16)which will cause more flex in a turn which you don't want. Other then maybe saving (I will give a modest estimate) of 10lbs, is that still worth it? If it is hey then thats what you want. I just think that touge is what you want with your MINI the overall of decreasing everything (brakes, wheels, and tires) is just going to come and bit you one day. But if you stick to getting the 15s get some Wantanabes cause that would be freaking sweet.
 
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:17 PM
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Do you think it might be worthwile to drive the car a bit to get a feel for what you might want to change rather than jumping into a parts changing frenzy? You may find it helpful to set a few baselines with the car first so that you can tell if you actually made something better or not.

Just a thought.
 
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:01 AM
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lol did that with my 94' gsr... story on that car
bought as a beater when i was 16 with a b18c1....($1200)
it needed some body work for minor dents and such!
so it got done first and i got 98' type r bumpers all around...(if u search 96 vs 98 u will see the difference) did as much OEM type r interior as well...
all it was done perfesionaly used real oem parts and everything it was gorgeous (ill dig up some pics)
got carbon fiber doors,hood,fenders and trunk all paint matched after a couple months.
got some RED RECARO's but never got to install them.


then did the suspension.

KW variant 3 coilovers
type r rear sway bar
strut bars,control arsm front and rear.....basicly everything that could be done was done
at 17 i was tired of the engine. got a 96' spec type r (b18c) and 96' type r trans with LSD...
did the swap at my house and it came out amazing lol. had AC, power steering, ABS kept it all
about 2 months later the built came!built everything accept bottom end.

MOD LIST:

Portflow head (supertech dual valve springs,titanium retainers,bronze guides,black nitride coated flat faced oversized intake valves,inconel exhaust valves,5 angel valve job)
ARP head studs
OEM honda headgasket
Endyn breather oil catch can

Hondata intake manifold gasket
Edelbrock performer X intake manifold (port matched)
68mm no name throttle body (tapered)
AEM 3" CAI
RMF narrow header (port matched)
T1R 70mm exhaust & muffler

RC 310cc injectors
B&M fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 190lph fuel pump
Areomotive inline fuel filter w/ shut off valve (security procaution)

MSD 7 plus ignition
MSD coil
MSD 8.5mm wire
NGK plus 7-8 heat range
AEM wideband*
DEFI water temp/oil pressure/intake air temp gauges

NX wet nitrous kit w/ progressive control (started spraying 35 shot at 2800...end at 8500 with a 125 shot)
20lb bottle w/ bottle heater
remote bottle opener
car wieght: 2428lbs. w/ me and 20lb bottle) (front and rear seats carpet looked like a everyday normal. car shed alittle over 100lbs.)

everything was done stealthy so no would be the wiser lol...black nylon lines and everything...you hard to study it to know what it was lol!
also used the b18c1 valve cover for the idiots who didnt know much...made it look stockish!

tuned on hondata s300 at do-it-dyno and made 228whp & 158tq (91 oct. mix with c16...by calculations it was 95-97 oct.)
on spray made 344whp & 288tq
i was more than happy with it..
and then it was stolen out of my garage while i was at my little sisters travelball tournament in las vegas on april 16-19.

we have 5 pits..3 adults and 2 pups and these guys came in and still took it...garage looked normal besides a missing car. they torched through the screen door(double locking dead bolt and all lol) and kicked in the normal door.
personaly i think it was a inside job but oh well whats done is done.
car was found striped...(carbon fiber doors,fenders,hood,truck was gone.)
motor,trans everything was taken. the seats coilovers and everything
i had a shell lol
they took my Volk te37s (takata green) and my spare Mugen MF10's (they were never mounted)

nothing else in the garage was touched in my garage.
all the car parts and car and that was it!
insurance finally payed out but it didnt come close to the time and money lost!
so im done with the honda stuff...sure its fun cheap and easy to build but crap like this always happens. (search honda-tech.com)

guys would sell their cars then go steal em and part em out...its to much to risk!

sorry for the long post lol
but my point is a build type r wasnt enough and im sure it would crush a stock or semi stock R56.
i had to have the spray because motor wasnt enough
so thats why i plan jumping into the R56 right away!

ive taken it to the mounatins 1 time so far and its fun but not enough lol..so ya my plans are to build ASAP


with everything spent on the car (parts,labor,tuning) it was just shy of $29k
so im prepared to put at least 10k into suspension and engine work if not more with this car.
 

Last edited by k.w; 06-03-2010 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:44 AM
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photos i had on photobucket

ill get some more once i find em
these were all with the shity b18c1 still.








painted the rear strut x bar black.
 
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Old 06-03-2010, 12:03 PM
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I can't even comment on this thread. It's like I have forgotten everything I know.
 


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