'09 S hardtop. We bought it little over a month ago and I'm concerned about the oil change. We're new to all of this, in a sense.

We have the extended warranty from the dealer, which raises the question as to whether or not I can change the oil myself. I have more than the ability to do so but will I void the warranty?

If I can change the oil, what do you guys recommend? Mobil, Castrol, etc?

Any thoughts you have on oil changes is most appreciated. Oh, 15K for the first change and 10k after? The care is used and has 22k on it.

Thanks so much!

Richard

 

Many different opinions on this and many threads.

In a nutshell:
1. Some will change it via the computer stated change interval
2. Some do it between 3 to 5 K
3. Some do it between 5 to 10 K
4. Some are longer than 10 K to 15K

If you want to keep the car, then oil changes are cheap insurance and I would do number 3, usually around 8K. Ultimately, it is what you are comfortable with. I myself do it more often as mine is more oriented toward the track.

As to oil types, it is another hotly debated topic with many different opinions. With many recommending A3 specs, which are European specifications. I like A3 spec oils so I use it. It is specifically Castrol 0W30 and Mobil 0W40, and not any other viscosities for either brands.

This is more a personal choice for me because I prefer polyol ester oil to superrefined mineral.

 

Thanks Slinger. I am of the mindset of Option 3 as well, somewhere in that same range. I don't mind changing oil at all. I change it in my classic Triumph motorcycle every 1k or sooner, if it sits a bit. But my wife will be keeping the car and I want to keep her in it.

We've had the car so little time. Is there an indicator that comes on for an oil change? It has everything else so I almost assume it does.

Thanks Slinger

Richard

 

Changing your own oil ahead of the computer based service interval will not affect your warranty. However, if you're concerned about a potential warranty issue, buy the factory filter and MINI oil from your dealership (or have them change it for you). they can't point any fingers if you use the same stuff they do. Besides, I had issues with an aftermarket filter I used on my 1st gen car - I just use the factory parts now, no worries then!

Whenever you start the car you'll get a "mileage to service" number in your tach. You can reset the interval yourself, but I just make a note of the date and mileage in the service book when I do an oil change, and let the computer run it's course. That way it doesn't mess with their records....if you got the owner's manuals with your car I'd highly recommend you spend some time reading them, all sort of good info in there, and lots of tips on how to do stuff, and how to use your new car. If not you can download them in PDF from MINI USA.

I change mine about every 7500 as I drive about 15K a year in my 2009 Clubman S.

There are a number of "How-To" threads on this if you do a search, it's not complicated but does require a couple of tools, like the 8mm allen socket or key for the drain plug (btw, if you buy the factory filter, a new o-ring for the filter cannister and a new drain plug seal come with it) and a 27mm socket to remove the filter. Also, be aware the filter cannister is made from plastic, do not crossthread or over tighten it.

 

In another turbo car I had, the pressure in the cylinders seemed to blow more carbon past the rings and by 4500 the oil was pretty dark, and when I changed it, I could feel the engine run with more power on less throttle. BTW, I was using Mobil1 exclusively. If you're worried about when to change you could send oil in for analysis at your normal interval.

 

Mini states that synthetic is mandatory. I have a 2008 hardtop and during the 50,000 warranty went strickly by the cars computer. Mini service would not change it before this interval. I will change it more often now and keep my records for warranty and service sake. It says under the hood what you should use. I believe it is Mobil. Why leave anything open for interpretation while under warranty?

 

Note that the mileage shown when the car is first started is to whatever is next according to the OBC. There are half a dozen or so different intervals in the OBC - not just to next oil change. The owner's manual has instructions on how to check the intervals for the specific services.

As mentioned, during the "free" maintenance period, you should not reset the oil change interval if you do your own services in between what the OBC is showing if you plan to take advantage of the "free" service. Once you get out of the maintenance coverage, you can reset it. Unfortunately, it will countdown to what it thinks the next change should be, so you still pretty much have to keep track of it yourself if you are going to use your own OCI.

 

Your warranty extended or otherwise is not voided by you or any garage doing an oil change outside the dealership. Just keep your receipts for record of what you did and when. Use the MINI oil filter and oil pan ring and Mobil 1 oil (synthetic) at the right oil weight as in your manual.

Normally the dealership will wait until the dash light for oil change shows it is time for a change. Read your manual about this under oil change. Otherwise you may elect to do an oil change earlier than the dash light suggests and that is fine but write down when you do it. In my area for those MINIs that are low mileage the dealership has done an oil change at one year even if the dash light does not show it is time for a change.

Every 6 months or 5000-6000 miles is also fine and roughly half the miles between normal oil changes based on the dash light.

You don't have to use Castrol oil from the dealership (expensive) if you use the same weight oil and a fully synthetic. Costco and Walmart should have the right one at a reasonable price.

If your MINI has 22K miles on it and you do not know when the last oil change was done you can elect to do a change early. You might check the oil dipstick for the condition of the oil and if it looks clean and new you might wait a little like 3000 miles.

You can also do Blackstone oil analysis with the next oil change to see how the oil looks chemically.
see
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

I knew I came to the right place. I'd seen that number flash on the tach as the S is started. Now I know what it means (-8100, if I remember correctly. But I'll check with an eye to seeing the right number. I never paid it much attention since I didn't know what I was seeing).

I think it would be a good idea to go ahead and change the oil to get it on "my" schedule, so I know when it needs a change.

I also didn't realize the oil filter cannister is plastic. Either I'll get under there or else "direct" the shop hand in town not to be too enthusiastic with the 27mm wrench.

Yes, we got the manuals with the car. Like mentioned, when we read through we're consistantly saying, "Oh that's what that's for..."

Appreciate it, guys. These were several good ideas and tidbits I didn't know! And that's just the oil.

Richard

 

Richard, I made a little guide in the How To section:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...il-change.html

There are at least two other guides in that same section.

 

08 cooper here manual and oil cap says 5w-30, but the MINI website says 0w-40. is there a big difference?

I have mobil1 synth 5w-30 in there now with no issues.

 

If using Mobil1, iirc, MINI recommends the 0w-40 weight. For the other brands, they recommend 5w-30.

 

Mobil 1 0W-40 or Castrol Euro Formula 0W-30. Former widely available, latter at least at Autozone in U.S. To those mentioning Mobil 1 5W-30, if you look carefully at its specs, it doesn't list some of the tougher extended drain (and thus usually longer lived additive packs and viscosity stabilizers) that Mobil 1 0W-40 does. Thus, it is specifically NOT on my list, even though indeed a lot of cars seem to want to spec a 5W-30 lately. Ditto on that one Castrol Euro Formula meeting the tougher specs (MB, VW/Audi and BMW) relative to many other U.S. Castrol choices. At a more detailed level by the way, I think MB and VW/Audi have been more rigorous on these specs than BMW in general, though with extended drain intervals BMW/Mini now relies on them for their stretching the change windows. There are lots of specialty and Euro brands that can pass these specs (look at ECS Tuning site for example for many oil choices), but I just tend to get the high volume locally available ones. O'Reilly (ex Kragen, Checker etc.) Parts is currently selling all weights of Mobil 1 for $4.99/qt. Just bought another case last night.

For those asking about the viscosities, "O" relative to "5" gets you a thinner oil at that much colder temps. Likewise "40" compared to "30" gets you more viscosity at higher temps. Both viewed as desirable in theory. In practice, I will run a 30 oil only if the car specs it and will try to use it in the non-summer interval. "O" s can be a good choice in very cold winter areas, and cold start wear is the predominant one for most engines [w/ some caution about hot coking in the turbo's for S's.] If the oil will be in the car for summer (or it burns any), then I prefer the 40. There was an "old" adage of holding the spread on cold vs. hot viscosity to a maximum of 30 points different (i.e. don't use 10W-50 and thus OW-40), but that was 30-40 years ago when additive longevity was much weaker and synthetics were rare to non-existent.

 

that being said mine is a NON-s model, and i live in florida... gets COLD every so often but not consistently so shouldn't i be ok with the 5w-30?

 

Excellent guide, pnorrod. I'd have never thought of the coolant tank having to be adjusted out of the way. And if I'm understanding you right MP1, either the Mobil 1 0W-40 or Castrol Euro Formula 0W-30 would do well in our area due to some frigid temps (SC) now that any oil change will run into warmer months soon and still be protecting well?

 

Both the Castrol Syntech Euro 0W30 and Mobil1 0W40 meet the correct specs - if you look at the fine print on the back of the bottle you'll see BMW LL-01 or BMW LongLife-01 listed under the list of specifications that the oil meets. Other grades of Castrol and Mobil do not have this spec listed. I use either of these, just in case of a warranty issue down the road - dealer can't complain if the oil meets the proper spec, even if I change it myself. I also use a BMW/MINI OEM oil filter, purchased at the dealer (pricey! - around $25) for the same reason. Keep receipts & records - and you're good.

Both of these oils work fine in all temperatures. I have Castrol 0W30 in my '08 Cooper right now, it was minus 29 Celsius yesterday morning (that's around 20 below 0 fahrenheit), the MINI started and ran just fine. I use the same oil in summer when temperatures can be over 30 C (90 F) or more on occasion - no problems.

One other thing - I don't need to move the coolant tank on my JustaCooper since there's no turbo in the way - lots of room to change the filter. That's another reason the Justa is superior to the "S"!


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Very comprehensive guide - well done!

Just one comment from me, if I may. Ramps are the best way to do this, as you suggest pnorrod. The ground clearance of the MINI is too low to fit the oil drain pan and the wrench and socket for removing the drain plug without raising the car somewhat. But if you don't have ramps and don't want to buy them, you can use this old (free) trick.

Take a scrap piece of 2X6 lumber about 5 feet long and lay it in the driveway just in front of the front wheels. Just drive up on the wood so that the tires are resting on top of it. Set the handbrake so that the car can't move, check to be sure the tires are resting fully on the lumber - and you're good to go. This method raises the car just enough to give you room to work.

Did I mention it's free?


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I'm not familiar with the specs for the Mobil1 5w-30. If it meets A3/B3, you should be ok. If you are going by the MINI's OBC for interval, you'll also need something that meets LL-01. Not sure if there are other specs you need to check on. That's part of the challenge with going outside the MINI recommendations - you have to do some research to see if you are meeting the requirements.

 

First change - was a little hesitant because of the funky oil filter. Took my time and it all went super easy.

Rhino ramps are light and inexpensive - many uses. Great for engine bay work to get any car up to a workable height. I have even backed my truck up on them for hitch work and rear shock replacement.

8mm Allen Oil Drain Plug
Torque: 22 ft lb (Copper crush washer).
(Passenger side).

27mm Oil Filter Casing Torque: 18.5 ft lb (O-ring).
(Hold the coolant tank out of the way with a bungee cord).

4.4qrts Mobil 1 0W/40

 

specs look ok, http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...il1_5W-30.aspx

and page 5 of my "service & warranty information " book says: (Click it)

I still plan to change it every 5k anyways.

I appreciate your response

 

I think the only reason you need the LL01 (long life) oil is if you intend to follow the computer based change interval, which could be as much as 20K, depending on your driving conditions and habits. If you're going to change it every 7500, you won't exceed the abilities of Mobil1 or any of the other premium synthetic oils.

[Eaglebeagle, I hope that's not what you just wrote too, I couldn't read your pic even after I clicked it}

That said, while in warranty - I use the MINI oil and filter, directly from my MINI dealer's part dept, and I keep the rect, just in case....

 

last time i check my dealership sold a case of oil and a filter for a very reasonable price (under $50).

 

It should be readable when you view it fullsize... basicly, the book that came with the car lists mobile 1 5w-30 as acceptable...
What i'm trying to figure out is, since i have an ordinary non-s and live in florida(no extreme coldness) does it really give me any advantage to get 0w-40 vs 5w-30

 

Thanks eagle. I had not seen the reference to Mobil1 5w-30 or 5w-40 in the manual documents. Based on that, yeah, I think you are ok.

 

does using a Mann Filter instead of the OEM one affect the warranty ?