R56 re: Buying a 2009 Mini, haven't driven a manual trans in 8+ yrs
#1
re: Buying a 2009 Mini, haven't driven a manual trans in 8+ yrs
Hey there!
So, I'm purchasing the linked vehicle tomorrow:
http://www.motorcitymini.com/Vehicle...-MI/1124689853
The test drive was terrific, had a smile on my face the whole time (the ride is very similar to how I remember my first car). When I got home from the dealership, I did a few google searches, and "transmission problems" appear to be an issue (note - this isn't the "S" model, and it has a 6 speed manual).
So, possibly stupid question - could you describe the 'best' way to drive the manual transmission?
So, I'm purchasing the linked vehicle tomorrow:
http://www.motorcitymini.com/Vehicle...-MI/1124689853
The test drive was terrific, had a smile on my face the whole time (the ride is very similar to how I remember my first car). When I got home from the dealership, I did a few google searches, and "transmission problems" appear to be an issue (note - this isn't the "S" model, and it has a 6 speed manual).
So, possibly stupid question - could you describe the 'best' way to drive the manual transmission?
#2
Not sure what you want to know....
Depress the clutch and the brake. If the engine is not running, press "start." Move the gear selector to "1," being careful not to enter the "R" gate. Slightly press the accelerator pedal while releasing the clutch pedal and brake. At about 2000 - 2500 RPM, ease up on the accelerator, depress the clutch and pull the gear selector to "2." Again, apply gas while releasing the clutch. At about 2000 - 2500 RPM, repeat the shifting process for gears 3, 4, 5, and 6. Cruising in 6th gear at 70 MPH, your RPM will be about 3000. This is normal.
As you brake to a stop, depress the clutch. Move the selector away from all numbers, to the neutral position. When you are ready to start again, follow the same procedure as in paragraph one.
NOTE: When you stop on a grade and are ready to launch, the MINI's Hill Assist will keep the brakes engaged for about 2 seconds while you follow the initial steps in paragraph one. If the grade is a steep one, you may want more than 2500 RPM.
These steps will yield good fuel economy and a pleasant drive. For more fun, worse fuel economy, and reduced engine life, increase the shift RPM to 4500 - 5000.
As you brake to a stop, depress the clutch. Move the selector away from all numbers, to the neutral position. When you are ready to start again, follow the same procedure as in paragraph one.
NOTE: When you stop on a grade and are ready to launch, the MINI's Hill Assist will keep the brakes engaged for about 2 seconds while you follow the initial steps in paragraph one. If the grade is a steep one, you may want more than 2500 RPM.
These steps will yield good fuel economy and a pleasant drive. For more fun, worse fuel economy, and reduced engine life, increase the shift RPM to 4500 - 5000.
#3
Okay for realistic daily driving....
Clutch pushed in. Put into first gear. Slowly release clutch pedal, when you feel it start to grab you give it the slightest amount of gas then you begin to go. When you are at 2.5-3k RPMs then you release the gas pedal and pushing in the clutch at the same time. Shift into second. And basically let it out and grab before giving gas just like take off, but the process has to be quicker for a smooth transition or else you'll get that mini-whip lash feel. That feel is from not giving it enough gas when letting the pedal out and the transmission is bogging down the engine.
And never over rev the gas pedal when changing gears (going higher rpms then needed) seen a lot of clutches burned up this way. And if you're new (which you are) and want real smooth shifts. Don't shift while accelerating. It's easier for a smooth shift when you get to about 3k rpms. Have it where you aren't accelerating anymore then do the shifting method. This decreases the whiplash because you are shifting from a coasting stand point and doesn't change the momentum of the vehicle much.
When it comes to slowing down. I just put the car and neutral and brake. But some people might argue to downshift through the gears (engine braking) and that wears your brakes less but I find it annoying to do in a car, it's good at autocross though. I only did downshifting in daily driving on my sport bike.
Hope this helps. This would be much easier to explain over the phone lol.
Clutch pushed in. Put into first gear. Slowly release clutch pedal, when you feel it start to grab you give it the slightest amount of gas then you begin to go. When you are at 2.5-3k RPMs then you release the gas pedal and pushing in the clutch at the same time. Shift into second. And basically let it out and grab before giving gas just like take off, but the process has to be quicker for a smooth transition or else you'll get that mini-whip lash feel. That feel is from not giving it enough gas when letting the pedal out and the transmission is bogging down the engine.
And never over rev the gas pedal when changing gears (going higher rpms then needed) seen a lot of clutches burned up this way. And if you're new (which you are) and want real smooth shifts. Don't shift while accelerating. It's easier for a smooth shift when you get to about 3k rpms. Have it where you aren't accelerating anymore then do the shifting method. This decreases the whiplash because you are shifting from a coasting stand point and doesn't change the momentum of the vehicle much.
When it comes to slowing down. I just put the car and neutral and brake. But some people might argue to downshift through the gears (engine braking) and that wears your brakes less but I find it annoying to do in a car, it's good at autocross though. I only did downshifting in daily driving on my sport bike.
Hope this helps. This would be much easier to explain over the phone lol.
#6
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
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If you really want to get the feel for the clutch, train yourself to get the car rolling without using the gas pedal. This is how I was taught to drive stick and it was a huge help for me.
Go somewhere flat. Start the car in neutral. Clutch down, shift into first. Let the clutch pedal up as slowly as gently as you can. Feel the point where it begins to cause friction and make a mental note of where that is. Continue slowly, slowly letting up. The car will start rolling. The pedal is now all the way up. Now, give it some gas.
My driving instructor made me do this at a stop sign on "the steepest incline in the city" and forced me to practice until I could do it on a steep hill without stalling, not using the gas. Nailing this down will help avoid the risk of over-revving and slipping the clutch, causing premature wear. Of course in normal driving you will probably blip the throttle and rev it a little as you let up, but learning to operate the gas and clutch independently will help you understand your car more intimately.
Good luck and congratulations on your new car!
Go somewhere flat. Start the car in neutral. Clutch down, shift into first. Let the clutch pedal up as slowly as gently as you can. Feel the point where it begins to cause friction and make a mental note of where that is. Continue slowly, slowly letting up. The car will start rolling. The pedal is now all the way up. Now, give it some gas.
My driving instructor made me do this at a stop sign on "the steepest incline in the city" and forced me to practice until I could do it on a steep hill without stalling, not using the gas. Nailing this down will help avoid the risk of over-revving and slipping the clutch, causing premature wear. Of course in normal driving you will probably blip the throttle and rev it a little as you let up, but learning to operate the gas and clutch independently will help you understand your car more intimately.
Good luck and congratulations on your new car!
#7
Have had my Mini since July of this year, so not long, and have found the clutch very touchy. Too little gas, and it lugs badly. Too much, and you chirp the wheels.
I seriously am gonna go try this "no gas at all" thing today. Just gotta know if it dies or not.
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#10
#12
#14
Hey there!
So, I'm purchasing the linked vehicle tomorrow:
http://www.motorcitymini.com/Vehicle...-MI/1124689853
The test drive was terrific, had a smile on my face the whole time (the ride is very similar to how I remember my first car). When I got home from the dealership, I did a few google searches, and "transmission problems" appear to be an issue (note - this isn't the "S" model, and it has a 6 speed manual).
So, possibly stupid question - could you describe the 'best' way to drive the manual transmission?
So, I'm purchasing the linked vehicle tomorrow:
http://www.motorcitymini.com/Vehicle...-MI/1124689853
The test drive was terrific, had a smile on my face the whole time (the ride is very similar to how I remember my first car). When I got home from the dealership, I did a few google searches, and "transmission problems" appear to be an issue (note - this isn't the "S" model, and it has a 6 speed manual).
So, possibly stupid question - could you describe the 'best' way to drive the manual transmission?
http://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchr...ce&sf2Dir=DESC
#15
#16
It just slowly puts it into the idling state of the car. Same as in an Auto when you simply lift your foot off the brake and the car starts moving. The key part of this is the "if you can modulate gently enough". It's the same way you *should* learn how to ride a motorcycle. You need to learn how to let the clutch out first without stalling before you try adding the gas pedal into it. At least that's the best way. The absolutely biggest key to driving/riding with a manual transmission, is knowing the point where the clutch engages. Make sure you practice slow like dannyhavok said, and get a really good feel for where your clutch starts to bite (where the car starts to move) and you can slowly work in the gas pedal. Soon enough you'll be pulling off perfect launches from stop lights and blowing away everyone else.
#17
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
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If this didn't work, Auto tranny's would stall when you take your foot off the brake
It just slowly puts it into the idling state of the car. Same as in an Auto when you simply lift your foot off the brake and the car starts moving. The key part of this is the "if you can modulate gently enough". It's the same way you *should* learn how to ride a motorcycle. You need to learn how to let the clutch out first without stalling before you try adding the gas pedal into it. At least that's the best way. The absolutely biggest key to driving/riding with a manual transmission, is knowing the point where the clutch engages. Make sure you practice slow like dannyhavok said, and get a really good feel for where your clutch starts to bite (where the car starts to move) and you can slowly work in the gas pedal. Soon enough you'll be pulling off perfect launches from stop lights and blowing away everyone else.
It just slowly puts it into the idling state of the car. Same as in an Auto when you simply lift your foot off the brake and the car starts moving. The key part of this is the "if you can modulate gently enough". It's the same way you *should* learn how to ride a motorcycle. You need to learn how to let the clutch out first without stalling before you try adding the gas pedal into it. At least that's the best way. The absolutely biggest key to driving/riding with a manual transmission, is knowing the point where the clutch engages. Make sure you practice slow like dannyhavok said, and get a really good feel for where your clutch starts to bite (where the car starts to move) and you can slowly work in the gas pedal. Soon enough you'll be pulling off perfect launches from stop lights and blowing away everyone else.
Funny you should mention it, that is how I learned to ride a motorcycle as well You're right, mastering this will definitely help with aggressive launches.
#18
I appreciate the responses, and will revise how I was driving the vehicle. My first car was an '85 Celica, which my Dad taught me to drive - and he always taught me to ride the clutch (which appears to be a huge no-no for this car). So I'll have to adjust how I brake, and how I start out of first gear. Luckily, my daily commute doesn't involve any hills, and is largely highway cruising.
#19
Also, from reading some other posts on the board, it appears that....
- I always want to use at least 91 octane, but preferably 93 octane fuel from a 'top tier' vendor. I'm in mid-Michigan, so I'll have to settle for Shell (we don't have Chevrons).
- I should add a bottle of Techron to the gas tank every 5k miles or so?
- I should get an aftermarket engine shield (like this: http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=88988) to protect the engine from rocks/debris?
- I should get strut reinforcements (like this: http://www.mini-madness.com/madness-...-plates.aspx)?
- I should get the oil changed more often than the suggested service indicates?
- I always want to use at least 91 octane, but preferably 93 octane fuel from a 'top tier' vendor. I'm in mid-Michigan, so I'll have to settle for Shell (we don't have Chevrons).
- I should add a bottle of Techron to the gas tank every 5k miles or so?
- I should get an aftermarket engine shield (like this: http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=88988) to protect the engine from rocks/debris?
- I should get strut reinforcements (like this: http://www.mini-madness.com/madness-...-plates.aspx)?
- I should get the oil changed more often than the suggested service indicates?
#20
#21
Woah Woah. Nothing above 3,200 rpms, or you will just have too much wheel spin.
#23
#24
My apologies for being rude. This is a public forum, right? Any ways, someone with 30 + years of using a clutch pedal should be aware of all aspects of the 'clutch' and how it works.
As far as 3 posts, just joined so I could educate myself on the mini's before I buy.
I have been reading a lot of the forum and have been entertained by many threads. This clutch one for example.
Like i said, please accecpt my apology.
and to quote 'Stripes'.
"Lighten up Francis"
As far as 3 posts, just joined so I could educate myself on the mini's before I buy.
I have been reading a lot of the forum and have been entertained by many threads. This clutch one for example.
Like i said, please accecpt my apology.
and to quote 'Stripes'.
"Lighten up Francis"
#25
My apologies for being rude. This is a public forum, right? Any ways, someone with 30 + years of using a clutch pedal should be aware of all aspects of the 'clutch' and how it works.
As far as 3 posts, just joined so I could educate myself on the mini's before I buy.
I have been reading a lot of the forum and have been entertained by many threads. This clutch one for example.
Like i said, please accecpt my apology.
and to quote 'Stripes'.
"Lighten up Francis"
As far as 3 posts, just joined so I could educate myself on the mini's before I buy.
I have been reading a lot of the forum and have been entertained by many threads. This clutch one for example.
Like i said, please accecpt my apology.
and to quote 'Stripes'.
"Lighten up Francis"
Someone with 30+ years of using a clutch does not necessarily know everything about a clutch, you can always learn something new. You find as you get older that you know less than you thought you did when you were younger (about anything and everything).
"--yet, sadly, accidental rudeness occurs alarmingly often. Best to say nothing at all, my dear man." Ablus Dumbledore