Not really, i blocked my bpv for a good while, at the most youll get a check sum cel if you back flow it too hard. My turbo is a-ok. Not saying to go do it but dont listen to what the people say online, like i said the term Compressor surge and compressor stall have been mixed up. Most folks dont really know the effects.

Vacuum is cause by the pistons sucking in air naturally. The engine wouldnt be running if you had none.

all i can say is retry, if not reinstall the stock valve if it worries you that much. The cel youll get if you backflow air too much can be reset by cycling the ignition and then driving a bit.

 

You, my friend, are a wealth of information. Also, your car is quite awesome.

I'll keep at this today... there has to be some good reason for this nonsense.

I'll take your advice and take it very easy (if I don't boost, I shouldn't really have an issue) if/when I drive it before I get a new tap. I think that's going to clear it up.

I wish there was a Mini shop nearby - I'd love to buy a NM or similar tap today.

 

Thank you sir. Ps you can boost all you want, if you do a high load low rpm let off thats when youll likely through the cell and itll dump the wastegate not allowing any boost. Cycle the ignition and it should go away if it does.

My bpv doesnt open at all when the engine has heated up from sitting in traffic. no worries.

for surge reference

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCj6Spwl1CU

happens while in boost

not like stall which is the whoos whoosh whoosh sound

 

Okay, seriously. That video makes my butthole pucker every time I watch it.

Scary stuff.

 

lol no where near surging the compressor so dont tighten up lol

 

Big news on this front after speaking with Way and Forge. Waiting to test a few things, but I might not be an idiot after all!!

 

Valve bad? Leak somewhere?


So eager to find out!

 

Brand new kit change for the R60. Hopefully it's the same valve. Started shipping this week. I'll go over the differences once I can confirm my changes work.

 

Sweet deally!

 

Yep, this is fixed.

Apparently it's not only me that was having issues. Forge has now rolled out a new R60 kit that removes the MAP boost tap. Hmm, wonder why?

Anyway, I'm running a direct line as stated in their new instructions, and getting 26-28Hg at idle. Looks like I'm fixed up. Here's the install notes for the new version: you can see the new lines that get tapped in the R60.

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/media...d%2060A(1).pdf

After all that, I'm just glad that it wasn't something stupid I was doing... Gave us something fun to look at for a week there, too!

 

This has to be one of the cruelest jokes ever... I have plent of vacuum pressure on the gauge now, and no boost.

If you look at their install sheet, they have you tap a vacuum line in the block to get solid vacuum pressure. I assume this is great for the BPV to actuate (I hope it's working correctly), but terrible for a gauge.

Here's a quick video to show how this looks on a gauge:

 

My guess on this after spending time today poking around the bay is that the line Forge has us tap into is a vac-only line. If I'm correct in thinking that, it would make sense that the vacuum readings don't really ever peak under 20Hg.

Since my boost tap doesn't work, I'm just going to have to buy the NM tap, or just go with a different approach and do the BSH tube tap.

 

Met Achillies Honor this weekend, He has the same issue. N18 does not give good vacuum readings from the tap as well. definitely an n18 trait! i looked and couldnt see anything wrong it just wont show good vacuum at the manifold.


Did forge say consistant vacuum to the gauge will allow proper operation?

Wont that allow the valve to be open consistantly

 

Sweet! I'm not crazy, and we all learned something new!

Thanks for keeping up with me on this.

 

So is it confirmed that the issue is with the n18 not producing enough vacuum at the manifold? because i just installed my NM tap and autometer vac/boost gauge and have the same issue. -2 to 0 vacuum at idle but boost works great.

 

Yep! You can get one or the other by tapping different points, but not both. Once we figured that out, it was easy to figure out which one to use.

 

well at least i got the boost reading. i couldve ended up with no boost and vacuum.

 

cold start this morning gauge showing 22hg vacuum. worked for about 5 min then back to 0 and reading boost only.

 

I just installed a Cravenspeed kit with the Marshall mechanical boost gauge on my 2012 MCS (N18 engine) and see the same thing. -15 or so after cold start, then after a minute or two it flips to 0 and stays there unless I get on the gas hard then I see boost.

I wonder if the ECU is controlling the boost like that? Though I don't know what the advantage would be to never allowing vacuum, maybe faster throttle response.

 

If you want to see vacuum, you can tap into the vac line on the N18. Won't do you any good for boost readings, though.

 

My understanding of the N18 engine - one of the changes that is - is a move over to a full Vanos system.

The reason I mention this is, I had questioned (a bunch of months ago), why I would see vacuum on some cold starts for a minute or 2, then the vacuum would drop to near 0 and all I would see was boost. All this on my Garmin GPS using the EcoRoute module plugged into the OBD2 port of my 2012 MCS.

I was advised that there is some 'logic' in there that has the throttle plate close at idle for cold starts to generate vacuum, then after some time, the plate would open, and all further "throttle" movements would be carried out by the valve train. The result was that on those cold starts, I'd get vacuum (with closed throttle) displayed on my 'boost' gauge until the engine has decided all was good enough to switch over to the valves, and from there I would only see a tiny bit of vacuum at idle or engine braking, and normal boost otherwise.

I don't know for sure, but is this why you only see boost on one source (actual intake manifold readings) and vacuum on the other (a vacuum line off the vacuum pump)?
Cheers,
E