Hi all. After having the typical stumbling and poor idle issues that other owners have been complaining of (correctable by Seafoam treatments), I opted to install the BSH catchcan and the PVC bypass. This seemed to work well for me all summer. I was emptying the can about once a month and it was catching a considerable amount of muck. Once the cold weather hit however, I was hit with a CEL that shows up as a P115C on my gauge, a code that has little to no information on the forums. All I can get is that it's either a MAF sensor gone bad or an air flow issue. I found that with the onset of the cold humid weather here on the east coast, my catch can was filling up waay faster than over the summer, and it was absolutely full, leading me to believe that some of that sludge may have been pulled back out of the can and into the engine. I emptied it, seafoamed, and even went so far as to replace the MAF sensor. The light cleared for a while but is now back. The can fills up in about a week (I drive almost 100 miles a day). So.. my question.. could the catch can be causing my CEL? Should I remove it and the PVC bypass valve? Is there somewhere that I should check for oil buildup as a result of the catch can over flowing?

 

I have the same setup and also find the catch can fills with condensation very quickly in cold weather. My daily commute is about 60 miles. I empty my catch can every weekend. Fortunately, my catch can has the opening on the top with the dipstick. I purchased a syrup pump and just pull the dip stick on the catch can and use the pump to empty the can.

The catch can does not collect much oil, mostly water. I don't know the answer for you, but I am able to empty the can before it fills up.

 

* MINI DTC P115C (0x2775) - Mass Air Volume Flow 'A' Too Low
The ECU is still seeing too small of inlet volume of air passing the MAF.
Which means there could be an opening / leak after the MAF allowing unmetered air to enter the engine.

Have you completed any intake system leak checks?
As for the catch can, yes, you can remove it and see if that changes anything.
But you're not getting an oil film on the MAF from the OCC as its downstream from the MAF.

Are you running an pre-oiled air filter element at all?

- Erik

 

No, no pre oiled filter. I actually replaced the air filter for good measure when I started seeing the cel. I'm still using the stock air box though. Other than performing a visual inspection, what can I do to check for leaks? The only possibility I can think of is the dipstick on the catch can may be allowing some minuscule amount of air to pass, since the rubber o ring is a little chewed up, but I can't imagine that would interfere enough to throw a cel. The dipstick is still firmly seated in the hole.

 

I asked about OCC filling up and was told that if it does, nothing will happen except it's like it's not there so all the crud will just circulate through your engine (not good). I live in lower Alabama and with the humidity changes every couple of days my can fills (not to top though) quite frequently. I just syphon it out the OCC dip stick hole once a week.
I don't really think your CEL is coming from the OCC.

 

Pressure / smoke check of the intake system to see where, if any, leaks are present.

- Erik

 

If I correctly understand the question about leak checking, I’ve used a small butane/propane handheld torch to look for leaks.
Opened the fuel supply but DID NOT light the torch.
With the motor running, passed the nozzle around the suspected area of the leak.
When you are in the area of the leak, the engine RPM will increase.

 

^^^Don't think I'd try that. One spark in the engine bay and you're toast. There's a mackice that emits smoke for testing leaks. Don't know where you can get one but I'm pretty sure it's not an unlite butane bottle torch.

 

Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it.
Seen it done and done it myself more than 25 years.
I’d venture the trick is muck older than that.
There is more than adequate ventilation.

 

^^^Did find an article explaining this process. I guess it's ok. Didn't really say anything about fire/explosion so I guess you are right. If I ever have suspect of leak I'll have to try it..
Also found a machine called the SmokePro which is probably right up there is cost so the propane is a cheaper way.
Thanks for the info.

 

I am curious if the sludge removed by the OCC was mostly water even in the summer or is there a lot of oil in there? I am on the fence with OCC as I don't care about collecting water and I don't like the idea of frequent draining in the winter.

Anyways, just be careful that the water in the OCC doesn't freeze - will cause more problems I suspect.

 

Very little oil accumulation, mostly water which I suspect isn't the best for the engine either. I'm south so I don't get the cold you all have up north, however, due to the high humidity and temp fluctuations I do collect alot of water. Even at that I only have to syphon it out once every 2 weeks or so. The newer OCC's have a little dip stick on top. All you have to do is pull it out and stick a tube attached to a plastic syring/hand pump and suck it out (takes a minute).
I wouldn't think the water mix would freeze but if it did, a short drive would thaw it out. I still think they are a good idea.
That coupled with some Chevron techtron(sp) gas additive every couple of fills and my valves are very clean. If it'll help with the carbon issue I think it's worth it.

 

The Techron, unfortunately, doesn't help the valves at all. It never touches them as it's injected directly in the cylinder rather than over the tops of the valves, like "regular" FI. You can install a water/meth injection kit that will wash the back of the valves that would actually pay for itself for about the cost of 1-2 cleanings.

 

^^^Then is it a waste of money to buy Techron???? Doesn't Mini recommend it?
**Never mind. I think I should go back to bed and get up and try again. I know the fuel additive is for the injectors, not the valves.
I'm 63, lapse in memory comes with age.

 

Can't say. It's heavily debated, though. Personally, I try to use Chevron w/ Techron or Shell as a personal preferences. Nonetheless, it could aid in keeping the fuel and carbon varnish that adhere to micropores of the piston and cylinder wall at bay. It definitely is a waste of money as far as keeping the cruddy-like caked on carbon build-up that forms on the valves.

Here's an illustration showing direct injection:



In "regular" fuel injection, the injectors pour the gas over the tops of the valves and when the valves open, it falls into the cylinder..this would wash the valves.

Unfortunately, this is a downfall of DI. Toyota(?) is putting a second set of injectors above the valves to remedy this problem.

 

I'm with you on the gas, Chevron or Shell 93 octane. Luckily, plenty of those around here.
The Chevron's up to about a year, year and a half ago was 100% fuel, no ethonal. Now it's 10% or so.

 

Well, with "regular" fuel injection, it would (arguably) help clean the valves. If you didn't have an understanding of DI yet, you weren't entirely wrong. Now you know .

Cheers.

 

I hear ya on the ethanol. There's no escaping it where I am. My motorcycle HATES the stuff. She pings and the tank is prone to deforming. Thankfully I haven't experienced any deformities in my tank....yet. **knocks on wood**

 

I've got a 96 Harley Custom, 80 cu in. with hot rod heads and the same here on my bike. Wants to pop through the SS carb on occasions. Knocking is kinda hard to tell since it's a harley. A guy told me the other day to just pour a little sea foam in the tank. Says it helps with his popping through the carb.
What bike do you have?

 

You know what I completely forgot about different places selling 10% ethanol gas. I wonder if that is why sometimes my JCW just doesn't have the same pep as other days. Not even sure if I have a choice - something to pay attention to next time I fill up.

Anyways I tend to stick with Shell and PetroCanada which seem to always have the gas additives by default even if they don't offer any benefits. I stick with 91 octane even when 93 is available.

Interesting. I was only aware of meth kits for the intercooler.

 

I'd go with the 93 octane. Should burn cleaner and give ya a little more pip and better gas mileage.

 

The catch can only collects water when it is cold. Once the engine compartment warms up, the catch can also warms to a temperature higher than that of the dew point of the water vapor coming from the crankcase. It then just passes the water vapor right on through. Water vapor doesn't hurt anything in the engine, it is the oil that the Oil Catch Can helps keep off of your intake valves and out of your intercooler and turbocharger.

Dave

 

2009 Moto Guzzi V7 Cafe. I've been using a product called Startron to combat the effects of ethanol. The verdict is out on whether or not it's working. Maybe there was some reduction in knocking/pinging in milder weather, but when it's hot outside, it will still do it. If anything it's supposed to breakdown excess water that the ethanol creates.

I can't find the particular thread on here where a gentlemen was sharing his experiences with this set-up and he is selling the Aquamist system, if my memory serves me. However, if you google it there's tons of info on how it is used for this purpose.

Here's something from the Aquamist forum: http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/...ad.php?p=15439

 

I have been using Lucas products for years. Never any issues and always seems to work. This is a great product for Enthanol
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...%20Stabilizers

 

Ethanol and Methanol are octane boosters, but they don't have the heat value of gasoline. That's why you will notice less mileage on gasoline that is 10% ethanol, compared to 100% gasoline. There are no additives that will bring 10% ethanol gas up to the same heat value as 100% gas.

It is possible to remove the ethanol, but you have to add water to the gasoline in a bucket, stir it up, let it settle. The water will bind to the ethanol molecules and drop out with the water, then drain the water/ethanol mix off of the bottom.

The result will be ethanol free gas, with a lower octane number than what you started with. Then, you can add an Octane booster, like Toluene.

Here is a site with the proportions, for octane booster

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html

Don't smoke while performing this procedure!

Dave