R56 Help removing battery. Need to remove wiper arm?
#1
Help removing battery. Need to remove wiper arm?
Hey all,
I posted this over in the R60 thread but not one response. Since this is a popular area and same removal as the R56 I wanted to post here for some help.
I'm doing some work on my Countryman and need to remove the battery to hook up some power. I can't seem to get the cover off without removing the washer arm. I did some research in the R56 threads but there's nothing showing how to get this cover off. I've got the whole part of the trim popped out of the clips everywhere but behind the washer arm.
If I remove the bolt holding the washer arm on the washer arm doesn't want to come off. Does anyone know if there is a service mode like on VW's that set the washer blades out of the way? One of the threads on R56 said a special pry tool is needed?
I really can't believe removing the battery is difficult when I've got the rest of the interior completely torn out! Geez.
Thanks in advance, pics below.
I posted this over in the R60 thread but not one response. Since this is a popular area and same removal as the R56 I wanted to post here for some help.
I'm doing some work on my Countryman and need to remove the battery to hook up some power. I can't seem to get the cover off without removing the washer arm. I did some research in the R56 threads but there's nothing showing how to get this cover off. I've got the whole part of the trim popped out of the clips everywhere but behind the washer arm.
If I remove the bolt holding the washer arm on the washer arm doesn't want to come off. Does anyone know if there is a service mode like on VW's that set the washer blades out of the way? One of the threads on R56 said a special pry tool is needed?
I really can't believe removing the battery is difficult when I've got the rest of the interior completely torn out! Geez.
Thanks in advance, pics below.
#3
No, you do not need to remove the windshield wiper arm for removal of the cowl. Bently manual:
"With engine hood open:
* Remove cowl sealing gasket
* Remove nuts and screws (there are three screws: back left, left front, center front)
* Peel cover off retaining strip at the bottom of windshield (just below the arm) and remove"
Hope that helps.
"With engine hood open:
* Remove cowl sealing gasket
* Remove nuts and screws (there are three screws: back left, left front, center front)
* Peel cover off retaining strip at the bottom of windshield (just below the arm) and remove"
Hope that helps.
#4
No, you do not need to remove the windshield wiper arm for removal of the cowl. Bently manual:
"With engine hood open:
* Remove cowl sealing gasket
* Remove nuts and screws (there are three screws: back left, left front, center front)
* Peel cover off retaining strip at the bottom of windshield (just below the arm) and remove"
Hope that helps.
"With engine hood open:
* Remove cowl sealing gasket
* Remove nuts and screws (there are three screws: back left, left front, center front)
* Peel cover off retaining strip at the bottom of windshield (just below the arm) and remove"
Hope that helps.
#6
Wait until you see the pics of the dash taken apart, looks scary. hehe.
#7
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#9
If it’s truly the same as the R56, then there is ONE metal screw and ONE plastic nut holding it on. Both are visible with the bonnet open. Both are located on the far passenger side of the panel. I’ve taken it off many times. Just unscrew both and then you have to pull the panel toward the front of the car. There is a kind of lip underneath the windshield that it slides in to.
That being said, the panel looks a bit different than my 2008 R56 though. Can you reach in and feel another nut/bolt connection? If not, I don’t think there is one. But again, this is comparing an R56 to an R60.
That being said, the panel looks a bit different than my 2008 R56 though. Can you reach in and feel another nut/bolt connection? If not, I don’t think there is one. But again, this is comparing an R56 to an R60.
#10
I couldn't live with the stock sound. Wife has the HK and that's much better but what I installed has that beat by far.
#11
If it’s truly the same as the R56, then there is ONE metal screw and ONE plastic nut holding it on. Both are visible with the bonnet open. Both are located on the far passenger side of the panel. I’ve taken it off many times. Just unscrew both and then you have to pull the panel toward the front of the car. There is a kind of lip underneath the windshield that it slides in to.
That being said, the panel looks a bit different than my 2008 R56 though. Can you reach in and feel another nut/bolt connection? If not, I don’t think there is one. But again, this is comparing an R56 to an R60.
That being said, the panel looks a bit different than my 2008 R56 though. Can you reach in and feel another nut/bolt connection? If not, I don’t think there is one. But again, this is comparing an R56 to an R60.
Thanks again for ALL the replies, you all are great!
POSTED in R60:
OK, not sure if the R56 trim piece is the same as the R60 but they are different part numbers according to RealOem.com.
There is a "lip" that attaches to the windshield trim and when removing you have to pull all the nuts (3 obviously) and then pop up the clips. Once all that is completed it's necessary to reach all the way to the back and pop up along the windshield. Once it's separated there it can be pulled out.
Not sure if the R56 is the same...haven't had a chance to mess with the wife's 2011 MCS.
See photos below...
#12
#13
R56 trim DIFFERENT than R60 Trim
Since I posted this in the R56 threads thinking the trim on both vehicles was the same I wanted to clear up that after comparison they are not.
Thanks for everyone who responded, it's much appreciated.
POSTED IN R60 THREADS:
Ok, I compared the trim on my wife's R56 and my R60. As you can see the trim is different. The R60 has a "lip" the trim fits into and the R56 has a rubber seal above where the lip would be on the R60.
Anyways, hope this thread helps someone in the future...here are the pics.
R56
R56
R60
R60
#14
I found this thread in a search for tips on removing (actually reinstalling) the battery cover/cowl on my R55. While it is true that the wiper arm did not need to be removed to remove the cowl, I fought with the cowl for 20+ minutes trying to get it back in place after I replaced the battery.
I removed the wiper arm (which required a gear puller), and also lifted off the involved segment of the "rubble gasket" at the forward edge of the cowl (as recommended above), then got the cowl easily and quickly reinstalled. Hook the lip that's under the back edge of the cowl underneath the lower windshield edge, then snap the cowl down in front.
And now I have a new gear puller, too...
I removed the wiper arm (which required a gear puller), and also lifted off the involved segment of the "rubble gasket" at the forward edge of the cowl (as recommended above), then got the cowl easily and quickly reinstalled. Hook the lip that's under the back edge of the cowl underneath the lower windshield edge, then snap the cowl down in front.
And now I have a new gear puller, too...
#15
I removed the wiper arm (which required a gear puller), and also lifted off the involved segment of the "rubble gasket" at the forward edge of the cowl (as recommended above), then got the cowl easily and quickly reinstalled. Hook the lip that's under the back edge of the cowl underneath the lower windshield edge, then snap the cowl down in front.
And now I have a new gear puller, too...
Where did you buy it? How does the gear puller work?
#16
Sears. Not cheap at $69, but, you know... new tool! I'm sure you can get something that will work at Harbor Freight for 20% of that.
It's a device which has three curved "fingers" which fit under the edge of a gear (or wiper arm hub), with a large wing-nut and cage which tightens them so they won't spring out from under the hub. Then there's a threaded shaft with a pointed tip in the center of the fingers which screws down to press on the gear axle (or wiper shaft), applying an even pulling force between the wiper arm hub and the shaft it's mounted on.
It's a small, non-hydraulic version of one of these: www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKsk_VEQMD8
It's a device which has three curved "fingers" which fit under the edge of a gear (or wiper arm hub), with a large wing-nut and cage which tightens them so they won't spring out from under the hub. Then there's a threaded shaft with a pointed tip in the center of the fingers which screws down to press on the gear axle (or wiper shaft), applying an even pulling force between the wiper arm hub and the shaft it's mounted on.
It's a small, non-hydraulic version of one of these: www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKsk_VEQMD8
#18
1bigpea-
I've got to resurrect your thread here as I'm trying to tackle a subwoofer install of my own, and I've been stopped in my tracks just trying to get the battery cover removed to access the firewall pass-thru.
I had no trouble removing the 3 visible nuts and releasing the majority of the clips on the front edge of the cowl, but this "lip" that holds the rear edge of the cowl against the windshield is tough to release. I applied so much "upward pressure" to the thing that I cracked it (in the place that I've circled in the attached picture of yours).
Now, the cowl replacement is only ~$40 or so, so not the end of the world if I need to go that route- but it's got my gun-shy about cranking any harder to get the cowl removed.
With that being said, is there any more explicit advice you can give on how one needs to maneuver the cowl out of that lip at the windshield edge? I'm convinced that once I get that part off, it should be smooth sailing for the rest of the project.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide- and hell, thank you for starting this thread in the first place, as it's the only place I could find any information on how to access the battery compartment.
-Josh
I've got to resurrect your thread here as I'm trying to tackle a subwoofer install of my own, and I've been stopped in my tracks just trying to get the battery cover removed to access the firewall pass-thru.
I had no trouble removing the 3 visible nuts and releasing the majority of the clips on the front edge of the cowl, but this "lip" that holds the rear edge of the cowl against the windshield is tough to release. I applied so much "upward pressure" to the thing that I cracked it (in the place that I've circled in the attached picture of yours).
Now, the cowl replacement is only ~$40 or so, so not the end of the world if I need to go that route- but it's got my gun-shy about cranking any harder to get the cowl removed.
With that being said, is there any more explicit advice you can give on how one needs to maneuver the cowl out of that lip at the windshield edge? I'm convinced that once I get that part off, it should be smooth sailing for the rest of the project.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide- and hell, thank you for starting this thread in the first place, as it's the only place I could find any information on how to access the battery compartment.
-Josh
#19
1bigpea-
I've got to resurrect your thread here as I'm trying to tackle a subwoofer install of my own, and I've been stopped in my tracks just trying to get the battery cover removed to access the firewall pass-thru.
I had no trouble removing the 3 visible nuts and releasing the majority of the clips on the front edge of the cowl, but this "lip" that holds the rear edge of the cowl against the windshield is tough to release. I applied so much "upward pressure" to the thing that I cracked it (in the place that I've circled in the attached picture of yours).
Now, the cowl replacement is only ~$40 or so, so not the end of the world if I need to go that route- but it's got my gun-shy about cranking any harder to get the cowl removed.
With that being said, is there any more explicit advice you can give on how one needs to maneuver the cowl out of that lip at the windshield edge? I'm convinced that once I get that part off, it should be smooth sailing for the rest of the project.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide- and hell, thank you for starting this thread in the first place, as it's the only place I could find any information on how to access the battery compartment.
-Josh
I've got to resurrect your thread here as I'm trying to tackle a subwoofer install of my own, and I've been stopped in my tracks just trying to get the battery cover removed to access the firewall pass-thru.
I had no trouble removing the 3 visible nuts and releasing the majority of the clips on the front edge of the cowl, but this "lip" that holds the rear edge of the cowl against the windshield is tough to release. I applied so much "upward pressure" to the thing that I cracked it (in the place that I've circled in the attached picture of yours).
Now, the cowl replacement is only ~$40 or so, so not the end of the world if I need to go that route- but it's got my gun-shy about cranking any harder to get the cowl removed.
With that being said, is there any more explicit advice you can give on how one needs to maneuver the cowl out of that lip at the windshield edge? I'm convinced that once I get that part off, it should be smooth sailing for the rest of the project.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide- and hell, thank you for starting this thread in the first place, as it's the only place I could find any information on how to access the battery compartment.
-Josh
Hey what's up Josh, glad you found this thread and I do share your pain!
Yup, you cracked it at the weakest point, not hard to do so don't stress it. Honestly there really should be no issue with it cracked because it's not noticeable to anyone usually. (but you will, probably just replace it )
The advice I can give is don't lift and pull anywhere near that point, reach your hand way back under the cover and start popping from the passenger side. It takes a lot of upward force and it's hard to get leverage with the angle. You see how in post #11 (I think) the photos show me installing it, and the far left side is last to pop in? That's cause it goes back on that way easiest. Left to right to remove, right to left to replace. Seems the plastic flexes more because there are not weak points.
Also, do try and pull outwards to relieve some of the pressure holding the piece into the lip.
When you put it back on you will see exactly what I'm talking about. It slides on and then pops in for install. However if you do it wrong on removal you'll crack it unfortunately.
Hope this helped you out, and keep us posted!
#20
1bigpea-
I've got to resurrect your thread here as I'm trying to tackle a subwoofer install of my own, and I've been stopped in my tracks just trying to get the battery cover removed to access the firewall pass-thru.
I had no trouble removing the 3 visible nuts and releasing the majority of the clips on the front edge of the cowl, but this "lip" that holds the rear edge of the cowl against the windshield is tough to release. I applied so much "upward pressure" to the thing that I cracked it (in the place that I've circled in the attached picture of yours).
Now, the cowl replacement is only ~$40 or so, so not the end of the world if I need to go that route- but it's got my gun-shy about cranking any harder to get the cowl removed.
With that being said, is there any more explicit advice you can give on how one needs to maneuver the cowl out of that lip at the windshield edge? I'm convinced that once I get that part off, it should be smooth sailing for the rest of the project.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide- and hell, thank you for starting this thread in the first place, as it's the only place I could find any information on how to access the battery compartment.
-Josh
I've got to resurrect your thread here as I'm trying to tackle a subwoofer install of my own, and I've been stopped in my tracks just trying to get the battery cover removed to access the firewall pass-thru.
I had no trouble removing the 3 visible nuts and releasing the majority of the clips on the front edge of the cowl, but this "lip" that holds the rear edge of the cowl against the windshield is tough to release. I applied so much "upward pressure" to the thing that I cracked it (in the place that I've circled in the attached picture of yours).
Now, the cowl replacement is only ~$40 or so, so not the end of the world if I need to go that route- but it's got my gun-shy about cranking any harder to get the cowl removed.
With that being said, is there any more explicit advice you can give on how one needs to maneuver the cowl out of that lip at the windshield edge? I'm convinced that once I get that part off, it should be smooth sailing for the rest of the project.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide- and hell, thank you for starting this thread in the first place, as it's the only place I could find any information on how to access the battery compartment.
-Josh
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...02&hg=51&fg=75
#21
Hey what's up Josh, glad you found this thread and I do share your pain!
Yup, you cracked it at the weakest point, not hard to do so don't stress it. Honestly there really should be no issue with it cracked because it's not noticeable to anyone usually. (but you will, probably just replace it )
The advice I can give is don't lift and pull anywhere near that point, reach your hand way back under the cover and start popping from the passenger side. It takes a lot of upward force and it's hard to get leverage with the angle. You see how in post #11 (I think) the photos show me installing it, and the far left side is last to pop in? That's cause it goes back on that way easiest. Left to right to remove, right to left to replace. Seems the plastic flexes more because there are not weak points.
Also, do try and pull outwards to relieve some of the pressure holding the piece into the lip.
When you put it back on you will see exactly what I'm talking about. It slides on and then pops in for install. However if you do it wrong on removal you'll crack it unfortunately.
Hope this helped you out, and keep us posted!
Yup, you cracked it at the weakest point, not hard to do so don't stress it. Honestly there really should be no issue with it cracked because it's not noticeable to anyone usually. (but you will, probably just replace it )
The advice I can give is don't lift and pull anywhere near that point, reach your hand way back under the cover and start popping from the passenger side. It takes a lot of upward force and it's hard to get leverage with the angle. You see how in post #11 (I think) the photos show me installing it, and the far left side is last to pop in? That's cause it goes back on that way easiest. Left to right to remove, right to left to replace. Seems the plastic flexes more because there are not weak points.
Also, do try and pull outwards to relieve some of the pressure holding the piece into the lip.
When you put it back on you will see exactly what I'm talking about. It slides on and then pops in for install. However if you do it wrong on removal you'll crack it unfortunately.
Hope this helped you out, and keep us posted!
I'll post any follow-up over in the R60 thread. Thanks again!
Your in luck my firend it is a cheap fix. http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51719808096/
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...02&hg=51&fg=75
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...02&hg=51&fg=75
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