I have read hundreds of posts complaining about the difficulty in reading the 2011 and 2012 dipsticks. I added all the information I could find to the post 'how to read the 2011 dipstick". The methods suggested work if the oil is not overfilled but don't give a good way to see the amount of overfill. My dealer, and from what I have read, most dealers overfill the oil. My dealer adds 4.7 qts. which puts the oil on the top bulge. I will insist on them putting in 4.4 qts on the next oil change. My 2007 MCS consumed oil and the oil always seemed to be between the high and low marks. I had difficulty reading the oil on the 2007 dipstick and bought a 2010 dipstick before I traded in the car. I wish I had kept that dipstick. The 2010 dipstick is the one shown in the 2011 manual and in my opion is the best of the OEM R56 dip sticks. The Graven Speed dipstick apparently is easy to read but is expensive and has many complaints. Modifications to the 2011+ dipstick such as removing the bottom bulge, adding flat sections, and adding holes make it easier to read. These modifications don't make it any easier to see the amount of overfill and might cause the plastic to slip off or fail. I can live with the 2011 dipstick if I must, but I would appreciate hearing if anyone has found a better one.

2011 MC PW/B

 

I had no joy trying to read a level when overfilled by the dealer. It wasn't until I did an oil and filter change myself with the proper amount of oil that I was able to get a useful reading.

 

http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop..._dipstick.html
http://www.cravenspeed.com/mini-dipstick/

 

If you insert the dipstick so that none of the handle is inserted in the tube, it will make your reading exactly 1" low--good way to check if you're overfilled.

 

$75 for a frakking dipstick? Seriously???

 

Good idea AMMODAVE. Inserting the dipstick only to the start of the handle portion you should be able to read the level for the partially inserted dipstick. By adding the distance from the bottom of the handle to the part that contacts the tube you have the actual level of the oil. It is a shame we have to find methods to get a good reading on the dipstick and it really bothers me that some dealers are ovefilling the oil.

2011 MC PW/B

 

I had a mechanic explain how to read the MINI dipstick and now it is easy as hell and not worth a $75 replcement.

 

Go on....

 

Basically the standard dipstick(07-10) does not start picking up oil until there is 2qts in the engine. From the point to the first jacket( the thicker part around the sprial part) is 1qt. From that point to the other jacket is another quart. Though it won't be till September when I do my next oil change I will confirm that.

 

So even when its at the 2nd "bump" or jacket as you call its, its only 4qts? And the true capacity is around 5?

 

I bought the Craven Speed dip stick and I can not say anything about what there product is like for other models, but for the R56 the original dip stick was easier to read, especially when the oil was on the newish side.
When I called and indicated my difficulties I was told to return the dig stick for a refund since I was not the only person to have difficulties.
They did not inform me at that time they were charging me a 15% restocking fee.
I for one was not happy with their product or return policy!

 

It only takes like 4.2qts. So if you put 5 in you are probably going to hurt your engine.

 

I certainly don't advocate overfilling, but I don't think it will hurt the engine. At worst, I think you will cause more oil to become oil vapor and increase the possibility of oil vapor in the intake, leading to the dreaded carbon fouling of valves. You hear of so many instances of overfilling by MINI techs when the do oil changes, this may explain why some folks have more problems with carbon deposits on valves than others. I change my own oil every 5K miles and make sure to never put in more than 4.5 quarts and sometimes less.

 

I LOVE my Craven dipstick, it's super easy to read, goes in and out easily, and now I look forward to checking it every week. :-) I hated my OEM dipstick, and if I didn't have the Craven one, I would do some of the grinding down/cutting lines in it. I didn't like how stiff it was, either, it always felt like it was going to break. (and apparently some of them have) But for my money, it's the Craven stick! My only small wish was that it didn't get so hot when the engine is hot, but the simple act of using a doubled over paper towel to pull it out, is a cure for that.

If the oil is overfull, it's hard to tell on *any* of them. But with the Craven, you can actually see the oil puddle in the lines that are scored into the stick. Whereas with the OEM, the oil is just smeared all over the place.

 

Ummm you can blow rings and gaskets if you over fill.

 

My son said that he would suspect that overfilled oil might get foamy, from something or other splashing into it repeatedly. (This would be in a naturally aspirated engine) I asked him because the dealer overfilled by about a third of a quart to half a quart, twice in a row. Now I tell them up front that I like to check it myself and I don't like it overfilled, and that fanatical gleam in my eye is apparently enough to get the point across. (that, and insisting that they don't wash her either, because she is already cleaner than she would be if they did it. LOL) Sending off nice but obsessive vibes can be quite useful when in the service dept.

 

I honestly dont have a major issue with the OEM dipstick. Just gotta twist it around to catch the reflection of the oil. Over the 2nd nub, good to go!

 

Ummm, excuse me, you're obviously and expert.

 

Obviously I am not or I wouldn't waste my time on these forums with people. I am also not a ***** about it either. I searched the internet to back up my claims but, all I could find was other forums and no definitive place that has what happens. So I can't back up what I am saying. So you sir have a nice day.

 

No problem, I am not an expert either. I think we're all on these forums to find ways to enjoy our MINI's more and learn a little something along the way. Have a great day.

 

I think the OEM stick is crap. However, Spending $75 for a replacement is a little steep.

What I do is use a folded paper towel. Start by pulling the stick, wipe, and re-insert. Now I lay the folded paper towel down on the engine bay. Pull the stick and leave the tip pointing down. Lay the stick flat on the towel and leave an impression on the towel. Now you can see the oil and the stick at the same time.

 

My understanding of the problem with the OEM dip stick is that one can 'easily' get a false FULL reading on the stick even if you are 1 or more quarts low.

How?
The theory is that as you pull the OEM stick out for the first time to clean it off, oil on the stick (presumably you have SOME oil in the sump), gets dragged and left in/on the guide tube. You clean the stick off, put it back down the oil contaminated tube and cover the 'reading' portion of the stick with oil. Now, regardless of how much oil is in the sump, you get a full reading...

A proposed solution with the OEM stick:
When checking the oil, pull the stick out and clean it, but do not replace it right away! Allow the oil in the tube to drain for 10 or more minutes, then re-insert and remove the stick, to get a more accurate reading. Rememer that before replacing the stick to take a reading, you have to wait 10 or so minutes for the oil to drain out of the tube... I think/hope this works - it's how I check the oil on my 2012 MCS!

I think/gather that the after market dip stick from Craven Speed is supposed to avoid the problem by having a smaller diameter cylinder for taking readings (the bit that sits in the oil) - theoretically this reduces the risk of oil in the tube getting on the dip stick as it moves down into the sump. I gather the stick does work for most - I haven't ante'd up yet - I too have real problems with spending another $80 on bad design!
Cheers,
E

 

Great advice.