I am looking for a brake bias adjuster that can be used in the car and during driving.

I came across this (http://pitstopusa.com/i-5068577-wilw...-adjuster.html) but wasn't sure if it would work on the Mini. I believe these brake bias adjusters only work if you have 2 master cylinders (1 for front brakes and 1 for rear brakes). From looking at RealOEM.com, it doesn't look like the Mini has this. It looks like it uses a single master cylinder with tandem fluid outlets.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...12&hg=35&fg=05

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...65&hg=34&fg=25

Does anyone know if you can add a brake bias adjuster to this type of system?

 

Correct, and that will not work on your single master cylinder.

Take into consideration that you may need an inline proportioning valve that's BEFORE the ABS pump.
Otherwise, without installing some adjusting valves, you may not be able to easily tackle such without some serious R&D and fabrication.

- Erik

 

Erik,

I actually just came across proportioning valves:
http://www.colemanracing.com/Proport...ood-P3630.aspx
Have you ever installed one before?

Not sure if you are familiar with RealOEM.com, but I am having trouble finding the ABS pump in the assembly. Any idea of where that is?

 

On my college design / fabricated Formula SAE racecar, but not on any passenger vehicles.

Yep, follow the outbound lines from the master cylinder...
* http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...73&hg=34&fg=15
... to the Active Stability Control (ASC) unit...
* http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...37&hg=34&fg=20

Are you trying to only adjust the rear brakes?
What's your main goal you're wanting to obtain?

- Erik

 

I was looking to be able to to turn a **** inside the cockpit and move brake bias from the front to the back for certain turns on track. However, since the Mini doesn't have a individual mast cylinders, I know I won't be able to do that.

However, I still believe if I only decrease the brake bias on the rear, it should make the front end dive entering a corner which would help me turn and get the power on sooner.

What do you think?

 

You'd have to run the brake line from the master cylinder into the cockpit area and using a adjustable in-line valve to accomplish such.

Problem with that is you'd be putting even more nose-weight on the front suspension which can really affect you turn-in speed.
I'd be looking more at swaybars (especially the rear) to reduce body roll, and a limited slip differential for the transaxle to allow getting back into the throttle sooner.

- Erik

 

First you'd hardly want to be turning the **** back and forth lap after lap....corner to corner. If you do plumb it keep in mind it will require you fit the valve so as to effect both rears and some tee plumbing will be necessary.

Now consider you have some degree of this valve built in now already and you have EBD systems to prevent wheel lock up and do much of what you're asking for now. Adding a Wilwood manual adjustment valve will only LOWER the value you get now, never increase it. Point being that you'll be trying to adjust something that's being dynamically adjusted already. Messy.

For the optimum results with this you'd want to gut the current system(s) and plumb the rear feed into a tee, to the valve, to a tee and out again. Making it fully a manual adjusted format. Now what you use will be effected ONLY by what you want.

While you could never use the valve to INCREASE pressure in any way especially to the fronts it seems that if more 'dive' for the front is all you really want you'd accomplish this with more front brake. Reducing the rear or increasing the front bias will be pretty much the same thing. Now if 'optimum' braking performance is what you want then I'd say the current computer does a pretty good job of managing that for you too.

Anyhow just my thoughts. If you want a valve let me know.