R56 Random "No-starts"?
#1
Random "No-starts"?
I've read about a few people having issues with their Minis not starting. Maybe someone can throw some advice my way.
I have a '11 MCS. The battery connections are tight (checked twice) and there's not a bit of corrosion.
On weekends, I usually park it and we drive my bfriend's car. Every single Monday, when I go to start it, the first thing I notice is the brake is rock hard. Before I even put the key in. Usually there's some "play" to it but that's the first thing I notice. The key inserts fine but when I go to press the start button..nothing. No clicking, nothing. The dash does light up and I get the exclamation point on my dash but it goes away so quick. My routine is to take the key out, re-insert and try again. After about 2-6 tries, it finally starts.
I go through this nearly every weekend. My bfriend thinks it's an electronic issue. I guess I could always take it to the dealership, tell them to let it sit for 3-4 days and then try starting it. It would be my luck, it would crank right up!
I saw something here on NAM about the car going to "sleep"? What is that? I do not have comfort access and didn't know if that was related.
Any advice???
thanks!!
I have a '11 MCS. The battery connections are tight (checked twice) and there's not a bit of corrosion.
On weekends, I usually park it and we drive my bfriend's car. Every single Monday, when I go to start it, the first thing I notice is the brake is rock hard. Before I even put the key in. Usually there's some "play" to it but that's the first thing I notice. The key inserts fine but when I go to press the start button..nothing. No clicking, nothing. The dash does light up and I get the exclamation point on my dash but it goes away so quick. My routine is to take the key out, re-insert and try again. After about 2-6 tries, it finally starts.
I go through this nearly every weekend. My bfriend thinks it's an electronic issue. I guess I could always take it to the dealership, tell them to let it sit for 3-4 days and then try starting it. It would be my luck, it would crank right up!
I saw something here on NAM about the car going to "sleep"? What is that? I do not have comfort access and didn't know if that was related.
Any advice???
thanks!!
#2
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I'd give the dealer a call. I'm assuming the car is under warranty. It might not be easy to diagnose, since it will be fine when you bring it there. But perhaps they can diagnose it from your statement of symptoms. My really pointless un-educated guess would be that perhaps the fob (or it's battery) is on it's way out. Does the issue happen with your other key(s)?
#3
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You say the brake is "rock hard". Since the brake has to depressed for cranking to occur, have you tried more pressure on brake pedal to see if cranking begins on first try?
Brake pedal should not be hard as this indicates a vacuum leak in the brake booster circuit and may be the cause of no crank issue due to decreased brake pedal travel.
MINI replaced my wife's brake booster on her 2010 clubbie for the "hard brake pedal after sitting for long periods" issue.
This issue would not be related to "sleep mode" when unnecessary control units are switched off to preserve battery voltage. These are "awoken" when door is unlocked or opened.
Brake pedal should not be hard as this indicates a vacuum leak in the brake booster circuit and may be the cause of no crank issue due to decreased brake pedal travel.
MINI replaced my wife's brake booster on her 2010 clubbie for the "hard brake pedal after sitting for long periods" issue.
This issue would not be related to "sleep mode" when unnecessary control units are switched off to preserve battery voltage. These are "awoken" when door is unlocked or opened.
#4
I never considered the brakes. I am getting ready to go out of town around the 12th so I was considering dropping it off at the dealer. Now, being a woman (and not being sexist or anything) but if I march in there and tell them I think the car has a vacuum leak in the brake booster circuit, they're going to look at me like I'm crazy! lol..
However, if this has happened to you, perhaps they have seen this before at my dealership. I only have one key, so I can't tell if it's the key either but I kind of doubt it..thanks for the info
However, if this has happened to you, perhaps they have seen this before at my dealership. I only have one key, so I can't tell if it's the key either but I kind of doubt it..thanks for the info
#5
Is the steering wheel locked as well? The '06 my parents owned had this problem as well as others. When trying to start it the key wouldn't turn, the wheel was locked, and the brake could not be depressed. After a while everything would work and the car would start no problem. never found out the problem as the car got traded in not long after the problem started to occur.
#7
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#8
#9
Hi Btwyx.
My 2/12 R56 MCS has a steering column barrel lock with clears when the 'key' is pushed into the 'ignition light' mode before starting the engine. (With no key pushed in the wheel is firmly locked and there is no effect on the brake pedal, BTW).
So sorry to confuse/be confused; I'm here in UK and our lock must be a USA/UK spec difference issue...
My 2/12 R56 MCS has a steering column barrel lock with clears when the 'key' is pushed into the 'ignition light' mode before starting the engine. (With no key pushed in the wheel is firmly locked and there is no effect on the brake pedal, BTW).
So sorry to confuse/be confused; I'm here in UK and our lock must be a USA/UK spec difference issue...
#10
i have a 11 mcs with comfort access and it does not have steering lock... and as of now it won't start I'm calling the dealer in the morning...idk what happened i left it set in my garage for one week and now it won't start only clicks and battery is getting 11.6 volts... everything lights up an turns on just won't let me start it..... its only 4 months old, bought it as a left over '11 with 50 miles on it and now still has less then 5k on it... i just hope mini takes care of it...kinda b.s. being a brand new car
#11
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As mentioned USA dropped the steering lock in 2008. I do not have it.
Just like US doesn't have the double-lock (deadbolt) door locks in the Coopers (I would love to have those to keep the doors locked and the windows down when I have the dogs in the car during quick stops.
As for the original post, I agree it could be the brake pedal pressure causing the brake switch not to engage. Over a weekend, the vacuum should not be lost that is a problem that needs to be corrected ASAP.
Just like US doesn't have the double-lock (deadbolt) door locks in the Coopers (I would love to have those to keep the doors locked and the windows down when I have the dogs in the car during quick stops.
As for the original post, I agree it could be the brake pedal pressure causing the brake switch not to engage. Over a weekend, the vacuum should not be lost that is a problem that needs to be corrected ASAP.
#14
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#15
You say the brake is "rock hard". Since the brake has to depressed for cranking to occur, have you tried more pressure on brake pedal to see if cranking begins on first try?
Brake pedal should not be hard as this indicates a vacuum leak in the brake booster circuit and may be the cause of no crank issue due to decreased brake pedal travel.
MINI replaced my wife's brake booster on her 2010 clubbie for the "hard brake pedal after sitting for long periods" issue.
This issue would not be related to "sleep mode" when unnecessary control units are switched off to preserve battery voltage. These are "awoken" when door is unlocked or opened.
Brake pedal should not be hard as this indicates a vacuum leak in the brake booster circuit and may be the cause of no crank issue due to decreased brake pedal travel.
MINI replaced my wife's brake booster on her 2010 clubbie for the "hard brake pedal after sitting for long periods" issue.
This issue would not be related to "sleep mode" when unnecessary control units are switched off to preserve battery voltage. These are "awoken" when door is unlocked or opened.
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