Just got my 2010 Justa back from the dealer after a no start last week. Second new battery under warranty. They didn't have the usual Varta but they put in a BMW that looks twice as big. 70ah 570cca.

 

Hello Porthos, how did the Braille battery work out for you? I am shopping for a replacement battery for my 3.5-year, 89K-mile, daily-driven base R56. Plan to replace it before it dies on me.


Is 2317 the minimum that we should get for street use? AutoAnything lists like 12 different types.

 

Hey, is this the battery you got from Walmart? If so, how's it holding up so far?






I also have a 09 Mini Cooper, and looking to replace the battery. I'm stuck between 3 choices:

1. This walmart battery for $107
2. Autozone Duralast battery for $166
3. OEM battery from mini dealer for $170

 

I read through this thread to help me decide on a replacement battery and wanted to share my information, hoping it will help others.

I had an Interstate MT-47 battery that was about 4 years old and wasn't holding a full charge. I live in the country and my driveway is known to kill batteries; the bouncing and jarring tends to break lead plates, thus reducing the capacity of the battery. I wanted to replace it with an AGM (Absorbed Gas Mat) battery.

I couldn't find a Group Size 47/H5 that I was happy with the Cranking Amps and warranty. I decided to go with a 48/H6 based on the OPs findings, and found a couple AGM batteries I liked the specs:

• Duralast Platinum H6-AGM ($162) - 36mo warranty, 875 CA, 735 CCA
• Interstate MT7-48/H6 ($260) - 48mo warranty, 915 CA, 730 CCA

I went ahead with the more expensive Interstate MT7-48, because I got a prorated credit for the existing battery, the battery had an extra year of free-replacement, slightly more Cranking Amps, and my experience with the Interstate All-Battery Center guys has always been excellent. The battery fits perfectly and the MCS is happy to start now.

 

Similar situation, although OEM isn't an option for me (too far from dealer, and not going to have one shipped). Looks like I got room for a wider battery than the OEM one in there now.

I've got a 2009 Mini Cooper S. Car is sitting in my driveway and won't start (doesn't even try). So I'm guessing it's the battery since it's been 0 degrees these last few days. Plus I've got 60,000 miles on OEM battery.

Just want to know what battery to grab if I go into Autozone or Walmart. Need the correct vent tubes. Supposedly the NAPA 7547 works, but has 2 vent tubes, when our car only has 1.

 

I ended up going with Walmart's EverStart Maxx H6.

The battery area can fit an H6 no problem. Plus you get a little more bang for your buck, over the H5 that most others suggest.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-...ttery/16782658

Note that JUST LIKE THE OEM, the new battery will have 2 vent holes. On the OEM, the one side has the vent tube inserted into it, and the other side has a black cap to block the vent hold. You can either re-use this cap for the new battery, or use the cap that comes with it. The new battery has a plastic cap "molded" into the plastic terminal cover/protector. You just need to snap the vent cap out of the plastic piece.

The only issues I had were with removing the plastic cover/cowling. The hood gets in the way, and I thought I had to "slide" it out at some point. I was wrong. I ended up breaking it (and had to tape it back together with Gorilla tape). Whoever designed this piece was a real *******.

 

It was 2 degrees out a couple mornings ago and my mini hard started, which I'm totally not okay with. I knew it was because of the weather but I already didn't know how old the battery was and had thought about replacing it several times. That particularly frosty morning was simply the green light.

Lurked the forums, yadda yadda, almost went to walmart (but I hate that place) and went to autozone. Had the regular duralast for 100 or the gold for 160.

Interesting thing about the gold (versus their "platinum" AGM grade, of which there is no h5) is that it has the best warrantee of all the batteries autozone sells. the Optima and platinum series batteries have a 3 year replacement warranty, as does the gold standard. However the gold standard is the only one that has an additional 2 year prorated warranty.

That alone was worth the extra 60 to me, so after doing the battery swap (super simple, only need a 10mm socket) and getting the discount I think I walked out with a 5 year warranty 650 CCA (170 more than stock) battery for 150.

I should mention though that IF that battery that was in it really was the battery it came with in 2008 it didn't do too bad for a tiny little thing, I think 6-7 years is pretty good. If I didn't live in New England I probably wouldn't have replaced it for another year or so.

 

not wasting my time for people who don't appreciate my help

 

Are you a new forum sponsor? I ask because you are using this forum to sell a service.

 

Deleted

 

Well stated and you have complete credibility in this case. Thanks for offering to help out.

 

First, I want to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread. The information I have read here is worth way more than any advice anyone can get from the Dealership!!!

I have a 2010 R56 Hatchback with 136K miles on it. For a while the check engine icon was lit up on the dash. The dealership said my car needed a new O2 Sensor and quoted nearly $800 to fix the problem. So, I deferred this service until I was able to save some cash. In the interum, my car decided not to start one morning. after getting a jump I noticed the check engine icon was no longer on. Hmmm? Regardless, I called the dealership again to get a price for a new battery. They quoted $370 including $220 for the replacement 60A battery and 1.5 hours to install & reprogram the vehicle. During the conversation they mentioned if I installed a larger battery the car would not require reprogramming. When I asked why this is, they said the higher Amp Battery overides the ECU.

To me, this just didn't make any sense and this is where all of you come in to save the day! After drilling down and reading most of the posts in this thread, I decided to buy a Durlast Gold battery from AutoZone. The H6-DLG battery I installed was $199, including tax, before the $18 cash back AutoZone gave me for the old battery core.

This battery, here's the link: (http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...32332_703388_0) is slightly larger than the OEM battery. It takes about 45 minutes to repalce because of all the steps required for installation but, once it's in and reconnected, the only reprogramming I did was reset the time on the clock, THAT's IT!!!!

A word about the installation. You will need a 10mm socket or, wrench and a No.2 Phillips Screw Driver. After opening the hood, there are two nuts and one bolt which needs to be removed from the plastic Cowl Cover. Open the lid on the Cowl Cover over the Battery and while grabbing Cowl Cover from the opening, wiggle (that's a technical term) the Cowl Cover up and out. You will feel a bit of resistance especially next to the passenger side fender but, with just enough force the cover will pop out.

In front of the battery there is a long threaded rod with a Phillips head. This is the clamp for the battery which needs to be removed. Remove the Vent Tube on the left side of the battery near the fender. Losen the Negative terminal first and remove from the post, then do the same for the Posative terminal. The battery is clear to remove.

Install the new battery and make certain to reinstall the Vent Tube. Tighten everything back down. When you start the car you will notice the Trip Odometer has reset itself to 0 and the clock will need to be reset as well.

I hope this is of some help to anyone who needs a new battery. Again, Thanks to all the guys and girls who have contributed to this topic. By taking a little time and questioning what doesn't make sense I was able to save at least $150.

Happy Motoring!

 

I am about to put my 2012 R59 away for the winter. If I remove my battery and put it on my bench with a tender on it, will I have to re-register my battery when I install it in the spring? Yes I have the IBS sensor on the negative cable.

 

I would just leave it in the car. I store mine too, just put a tender on about 1 day a month. I hear those things can overcharge.

 

I am thinking about getting a car cover for winter storage in my garage.
I am asking again about removing the battery and will i have to re-register the battery in the spring when I return it to the car?
Another option for me is to disconnect the battery and again will I have to re-register the battery?

 

I just experienced this on my 2009 - no; you don't need to register.

Again; no.

- Erik

 

I don't understand what difference it makes if you replace the battery with the exact same model with exact same specs - I know when you register it wants to know age and CCA, but what difference does the battery age make in reference to the car charging the battery?

 

Because BMW's IBS (Intelligent Battery System) changes the way it charges the battery as it ages. A battery is a chemical energy storage devicethat will degrade with time. Since these cars have lots of electronics that are sensitive to voltage fluctuations BMW designed the charging system to make up for the degradation that a battery would suffer as it ages. That means pumping more voltage and amperage into an older battery than you would a new one. Now if you come along and replace that old, worn out battery with a fresh new one the IBS needs to be told that. Otherwise it will end up overcharging and damaging the new battery resulting in it failing prematurely.

 

thanks for the quick reply!.......has this factually been shown or just your thoughts on how the system works? again, thanks for your help!

 

I don't think this is a reason or even a contributing factor. After all, generic chargers can be used on any size battery, irrespective of their wear status and/or age. "Smart" chargers work by monitoring the current (*) that the battery absorbes and adjust voltage. On this basis, it becomes nearly impossible to "overcharge" a lead battery. Besides: a new battery cannot be overcharged by applying a voltage/current curve a worn battery of the same spec would have withstood.

By permanently monitoring the charge state and charge performance of the battery (irrespective of whether it is charged by the car's charge system or an external charger) the car can make a good prediction as to how much of the battery's charge can be "consumed" and still have enough left in order to crank the engine the next time the vehicle user wants to start it. The car can thus preemptively shut down electric consumers of low priority (e.g. pre-defined comfort functions) until the battery charge state is increased (**). This behaviour is documented by BMW in its tech docs.

(*): Some chargers even monitor temperature to more finely adjust voltage.
(**): Some people interpret this behavior (i.e. some appliances working while others do not and all of them working when the battery is replaced) as an increased "sensitivity" of Minis for old/worn batteries, even though it is intended behaviour with a clear objecitve: be able to start the engine in as many situations as possible.

 

ISTA only requires storage capacity (Ah) and type (AGM or standard) in order to register a different spec battery. Battery age is not required.

Registering a same-spec battery (commonly referred to as a "battery reset") requires no information.

 

I stand correct, thanks for the details giorgos. Good information to know!

The point is, the folks that designed the system required that a battery replacement be registered. They didn't just make this requirement up in order to get more money out of you. Failing to follow it can have a negative impact to the functionality of the vehicle.

 

IBS is showing up on more and more makes btw .... at one time RARE now much more common. Same deal as our wiz bang SO expensive to replace key fobs ....... my 2014 focus ST and 2019 MAZDA 6 both came with offers of 'key insurance' from the dealers cuz the keys cost so much to replace . . .