My hope is that when new peeps search they will find this one.

The change the fluid is easy once you figure it all out.

I recommend you get this tool.

www.ntxtools.com

ASM-ATF105 Filler Adapter M10 X 1.0 1 $21.59

You will also need a 5 mm hex wrench.
A new crush washer is best. (I got several. Changed the
one that came with it, but I have not changed it each time.
I'll put a fresh one on at the end).

You will need a fluid transfer pump. I recommend the orange one
($15) from Advance Auto. You can get it other places cheaper
(have done) but the plastic is not as good. I taped both
connections at the pump to the hose with that good metal tape.
You'll also need a hose clamp to connect the hose to the above
tool. It fits perfectly.

I got Toyota Type IV from the dealer (there are vendors here that
offer upgraded fluid pelicanparts for one) because I didn't know I
could for sure use other stuff and because the Toyota dealership
is on my way home from work. You'll want to get quite a much of it.
Using the drain, fill, drive, drain, fill, drive method takes at least
4 times to get the black out. Figure 3 quarts per time at
$6 per quart.

I first did this jacking up all four tires. It can be done by
just lifting the driver side and taking off the tire, then lowering
it down level. You don't even need to crawl under the car.

Undo drain bolt. A little fluid will gush out, then it will trickle.
There is a standpipe screwed way up in this. Use the long end
of the allen hex wrench. As noted in other posts be careful as
it is plastic. A lot of ATF will gush out.
It is most likely black. About 2.5 L will come out, maybe a little more.

Put the standpipe in and using the above tool and pump put enough
back in to where it is for sure running over the standpipe. I put about
2.8 L in the first time and it worked out perfectly.

Put the drain plug back in. You have to start the car and let it
warm up (the transmission) to about 35 C (I think the specs are
30-40 C). I chose to do this with a voltmeter ($30) that has a
thermocouple option (I already owned this one).

Let it warm up and then cycle through the gears. The book says
twice I found more is better. I also left it in D for a while after my
big mistake (below). But cycle through several times and leave it in gear
each time for a few minutes.

Now drain it again. When you undo the drain bolt (35C is actually
not that hot) it will at first gush out and then go to a trickle.
It takes a while. Do not walk off and do something with your daughter
at this step. I think what happens is the other pieces parts will
slowly drain. I thought I was OK with the plug off and walked away
for a while. I came back to an extra 1.5L drained out.
This left me stuck.

Now go for test drive. Most likely you will notice the smoother
faster shifts right away. I think my mpg went back up it has been
low. As of this writing I am not quite done but I have figured
out the method now. Maybe an hour and that includes test drive.

I'll be doing this about every 30k-40k miles from here on out.
Although at some point I do plan to drop the pan and change
the filter.

 

nice job condor

i have a couple suggestions that i got from my friend that owns a transmission shop

he recommends 30,000 mile changes, even if you have synthetic fluid (the mini oem fluid is dino, not synthetic)

he recommends to always drop the pan and change the filter

and here is the biggie ...

do the initial drain and dropping the pan COLD AFTER SITTING ALL NIGHT, DO NOT START THE CAR BEFOREHAND, PARK THE CAR WHERE YOU WILL BE WORKING ON IT

he has found that overnight, more fluid drains back out of the guts into the pan, he typically get 5.5 quarts out of the total of 6.6 total capacity (at least on my dad's cms all4, other models may be different))

getting this much fluid out, he says the multiple drain/refill/drain steps are not necessary if the fluid is changed every 30,000 miles

after reassembly and refill, it is necessary to run the car and select all the gear positions as you did, getting the fluid up to the proper temp (the trans fluid temp can be read via the OBD2 port) and then removing the drain plug to set the final fluid level

scott

 

Thanks that is great help. I should have said that I did park my car overnight in the spot to work on it. Only 2.5L comes out. BUT as noted also if you walk away on it a lot more can come out over time. I am currently building up courage to drop the pan and change the filter. I know it is important. I wanted to read the temp via the port and was surprised my bavtech tool didn't work. I am close to a solution I will test this weekend.

 

I should offer a disclaimer that when jacking all four wheels up I use jackstands and make sure the car is very secure. When using the jack one wheel method I use a really big floor jack the kind that is very stable and strong. I would not do this with the skimpy scissors jack or even a smaller but less stable floor jack.

In short please use the common sense and be careful.