Hello
I have a 2007 MC R56 non-turbo Base. I purchased this car not knowing all the issues. I quickly learned that the original owner had driven the car low on oil from a leaking valve cover gasket that I replaced. I was getting codes related to the Vanos oil presser sensors that controls timing advance. I pulled the Vanos sensors to inspect them and noticed the screens were covered with fine metal particles. From that point I had been working hard to quickly clean all the aluminum metal particles from the engine.

I have now cleaned the Vanos Sensors , changed the oil and filter three times and the system seems clean now. I plan on more oil changes every 100 miles. I am also filtering the oil to see my progress. I will try to post some photos of the metal shavings from the oil and filter soon. The car is now running well, but I am getting a vacuum system leak code P115D. (Mass or volume airflow to high.)

I recently noticed a faint ticking noise in and around the vacuum pump and suspect the bearing may be starving for oil, because the vacuum pump oil feed hole may be clogged with metal fragments. I plan pull the vacuum pump off to inspect the oil passage this week end. Would anyone know of other areas in the engine that may be sensitive too or damaged by the metal shavings? Also what should I be cleaning and inspecting on this engine to prevent future failure?

Thanks,
MellowMini

 

The pistons, cylinder walls and rings, the valves seats and seals and if they get past that they can clog your cat.

 

Thanks Again Braminator for you insite. I did some research on the cat and there seems to be a recall for 2007 Base Cooper not the s and some 2008 models that seems to apply to my car. As I understand Mini will replace the catalytic converter under warrantee at no charge. I plan to call the dealer this morning and find out if the recall was done on the car. Maybe I can get a new cat and eliminate another potential future weak spot on the car.


Thanks,
MellowMini

 

Ask them to run the VIN and they should see if all the recalls and TSB's were done.

 

Good news, I just got off the phone with the dealer. The cat recall applies to my car and they will replace it free of charge. I am bringing it to them on Monday to get it replaced.

Thanks,
MellowMini

 

Excellent. Have them do a once over, but be prepared for things to be found. Good luck

 

Here is a photo of the metal that was removed from the 2nd oil change at 50 miles. This was the metal from both the filter and the oil. I filtered it throught a fine cloth. After filtering the oil I pored it back into the engine along with the cleaned filter and added Gunk Engine Flush and ran for 5 min and changed the oil and filter with new.

Thanks,
MelloMini

 

Hello,
Here is an update to my issues. Over the weekend I took off the vacuum pump and found no metal related issues. After taking it apart I understand why it ticks and believe that this may be a normal sound.

I took the car into the Mini dealer today and had them replace the cat under a recall and had them look it over. The service writer said any time that metal was in the oil, the engine needed to be replaced and it would cost about $11k.

The mechanic said it did not run too bad before the DME figured out the VANOS Oil presser sensors had an issue. I had them change the oil and filter for the 4th time. He said he saw some small metal flakes in there and said that was not a good sign. He checked the timing chain, tensioner, guides, valve train and VANOS system and they all seemed to be ok for now and not making noise. He recommended that I remove the oil pan and clean the oil pickup and aggressively change the oil and filters. He recommended that I replace the spark plugs and VANOS oil solenoids, saying the screens were damaged by the metal and that small pieces got by the screens and damaged the solenoid pistons. He thinks if I replace VANOS camshaft solenoids the check engine light may go out. They also found that the A/C compressor was not working, but that the least of my worries.

Thanks,
MellowMini

 

May I ask how/why you did not check the car out PRIOR to buying?? Best of luck getting your car sorted out.

P.S. If you have not yet considered it, maybe have a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) done?

 

Hello Kromdon,

The car was not running from a dead battery when I went and looked at it. I went through the car for about 30 min before acquired it for $3500 (Market value in good order is about $10,000) from the original owner, that gave me no details other than she thought the engine had a problems.

It seemed like a small risk at the time. I thought the car to be worth about what I paid for it in salvage. I was hoping it could be figured out and took a chance and acquired it.

The positive side to this Mini is it is not sloughing off any more metal flakes. It running well and has no engine noises and it looks near perfect on the interior and exterior. It has new tires, battery, serpentine belt, thermostat housing and valve cover gasket and now a new cat.

I just bought 2 used Vanos oil presser Solenoids for $60 dollars each off EBay and hopefully the check engine light will be extinguished. I have about $4000 in it now, only time will tell if it was a good purchase or not.

I think it is a good idea to get an oil analysis done; would be nice to know where the metal came from. I will send off a sample and find out.

 

This could be a buyer beware story or it might have a happy ending. Either way good luck. Post some pics of the MINI.

 

And the ticking from the vacuum pump is addressed in a service bulletin from MINI claiming it is completely normal.

My 08 base model ticks VERY LOUDLY sporadically at idle. In my case, I don't think it is coming from the vacuum pump (dealer kept telling me it was), but on the lower pulley side of the engine.

 

Hello Strobeyprobey,
I figured out how you can test and see if the ticking noise is from the air pump or the cam pulley. All you need to do is to depress the brake pedal and if the ticking noise disappears for a while it’s the air pump. If it does not go away it’s the cam pulley. Good luck

MellowMini

 

The brake pedal does not seem to change the ticking noise. Just changing the engine RPM (by reving it a bit) is the only thing that temporarily stops the noise. The ticking has been there since the car was new (69k miles now) and I heard it on a couple of loaners as well.

 

There's a reason they sold it so cheap, someone told them it needed a new engine too.

I think I'd be most concerned about WHERE the metal is coming from in the first place, not just with cleaning it out.

Has anyone told you why there are metal particles this big in the oil system?

The mechanic is right, with this much metal in the engine, something is wrong and I doubt the band aids you're applying are going to fix it.

Good luck, and keep up informed.....

 

MellowMini[/quote]


Hello MINIdave,

The Mini dealer mechanic felt that the low oil caused the issue. When I acquired the car it had a major oil leak from the valve gasket that filled up the spark plug holes and was also leaking out passenger side rapidly. He said these cars were very sensitive to low oil. At about 2 quart low they begin to score and scrap off metal. He did not want to speculate where the metal was coming from but gave me several possibilities. My feeling is that the timing chain pulled the metal off the side of the block. It would be nice to know exactly where it came from. Possible and oil analysis could pinpoint where.

Thanks,
MellowMini

 

Hello,
Just prerformed the 5th oil change and was pleased to see it very clean. I found 6 small metal flakes in the oil and filter. I think it now under control and it does not seem to be producing any more metal. It is still running well with no unusual sounds. The car has now traveled about 430 mile from the time I noticed the metal in the oil. I am planning to take it on a 150 mile freeway trip on Thursday and I will change the oil again after the trip and see where I am with the metal.

MelloMini

 

Last night in a parking garage, I heard a distinct ticking motor coming from the other level, and sure enough an R56 LCI (base) came around the corner. Sounds exactly like my car.

 

Hello Stobeyprobey,
Here is the best way to test for the ticking sound and rule in or out the air pump. Remove the 6ea. T25 screws from around the air pump ring and carefully remove the cover. There is a ½ inch by 2 ½ inch metal piece with two small caps on the ends that rotates to produce vacuum. These three items will easily slide out and off the cam it rides on without the cover on. They will basically fall right out when you remove the big round cover. With the 3 parts removed and the cover off, start the car up and listen for the ticking. If the ticking is gone, it’s the air pump. If you still hear the ticking, it is located somewhere else. After the test you will have to remove the pump plate attached to the engine head by removing the 2ea. 10 mm bolts. Pull the plate off and put it back together on the bench and reassemble the air pump and reinstall back on the engine afterwards. This may help you isolate the ticking.

Good luck,
MelloMini

 

Great! Thank you for the information!!!!

 

I just changed the oil for the 6th time. I put about 260 miles on the Mini from the last oil change, mostly high speed freeway driving. The oil was very clean and only found 6 very small specks in the filter and much less glitter in the oil. The Mini now has about 700 miles from the time I found metal in the oil and it still is running strong. I added R134a to the A/C system and it came back to life. I could have a small leak some where, but it is still cooling after 3 days. I am still waiting for the oil presser Solenoids to come in and correct the engine codes, they should be here late next week.

MellowMini

 

This is great news for you for sure. Good luck.

 

Mellow, glad to hear that it looks like your crap-shoot came out in your favour, more often than not they don't, but great to see another MINI saved from the salvagers. Also learned a few interesting things about the vacuum pump while trolling this thread. Thanks for all the info everyone.

 

Did installing new solenoids fix your faults? My DME is throwing a code for exhaust valve solenoid and I am doing troubleshooting trying to figure out the cause.