R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+) MINI Cooper and Cooper S (R56) hatchback discussion.
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R56 turbo oil cooler line

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  #51  
Old 04-10-2013, 03:42 PM
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I would get the shield, every little bit helps.
 
  #52  
Old 04-10-2013, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Ch28Kid
@SpeedRacer0212 I know... I purchase by from Detroit Tuned and I was so **** to see they charge 28 dollar for a 5.70 product. 491% mark up if you do the math.

The oil shield is need. It is fitted in all the newer MINI Cooper S. The engineers know the turbo gives off too much heat causing the oil to cook on the top. After many heat cycles and a combination of old oil, making it more acidic (sulphuric acid + carbonic acid), the acid eats away the metal/rubber part inside your engine including the turbo oil line seal.

Having the oil shield just reduce the amount of heat and help mitigate the damage. I'm sure the new oil line will wear over time but the shield does help.
MINI JUST updated the part. We were going to stop carrying it all together cause it's not needed with our turbo oil line. We only found that the part was updated and a MUCH lower price on the heat shield until it came in once we ordered a few more cause people wanted them. We do have the new part in stock and new LOWER pricing will come with it but you have to realize we are a full service shop and are installing ALL of the products on our web site every day and don't always have time to update the web as fast as we would like too. we are not just a web store like them. At the time the shield was 28 dollars and we made all of like 2 bucks on it. really. till i get a chance to fix the part i took it off the site, but you have to realized that the order you placed was before the new part came out. the reason the lower price...MINI ordered MILLIONS of them to fix the warranty problems of the ...ding ding ding...leaking turbo oil lines.

Chad
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  #53  
Old 04-11-2013, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Detroit Tuned
MINI JUST updated the part. We were going to stop carrying it all together cause it's not needed with our turbo oil line. We only found that the part was updated and a MUCH lower price on the heat shield until it came in once we ordered a few more cause people wanted them. We do have the new part in stock and new LOWER pricing will come with it but you have to realize we are a full service shop and are installing ALL of the products on our web site every day and don't always have time to update the web as fast as we would like too. we are not just a web store like them. At the time the shield was 28 dollars and we made all of like 2 bucks on it. really. till i get a chance to fix the part i took it off the site, but you have to realized that the order you placed was before the new part came out. the reason the lower price...MINI ordered MILLIONS of them to fix the warranty problems of the ...ding ding ding...leaking turbo oil lines.

Chad
Detroit Tuned.
Understood. I do recommend getting DT Oil Line. =D
 
  #54  
Old 04-16-2013, 04:04 PM
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Just installed the DT line. Great product with good adjustability to ensure no contact to the turbo/block/heat shields. Replacement gaskets are a must! Just pick up everything DT suggests.

Original poster has good directions, I made an extended 1/4" ratchet by tapping a long extention to it. Also a ratcheting 10mm ratchet was very helpful for some of the tighter bolts.

Took me about 6 hrs off and on over the weekend.
 
  #55  
Old 04-16-2013, 04:54 PM
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i called a shop in my town that specialized in euro cars. the owner himself owns an R53S. He told me he can probably do the job in 2 hours charging 90/hour. I just need to supply the parts to him. Is this kit all i need to give him and im good to go?

http://www.detroittuned.com/detroit-...-oil-line-kit/
 
  #56  
Old 04-16-2013, 08:23 PM
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That looks like everything I remember. Dealer charged about $600 including parts. Sounds like your shop is fair.
 
  #57  
Old 04-17-2013, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by OreoSAll4
i called a shop in my town that specialized in euro cars. the owner himself owns an R53S. He told me he can probably do the job in 2 hours charging 90/hour. I just need to supply the parts to him. Is this kit all i need to give him and im good to go?

http://www.detroittuned.com/detroit-...-oil-line-kit/
Wow I want to see if the indie shop close to me can do that! Would save me a ton of labor and time
 
  #58  
Old 04-18-2013, 06:59 AM
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Guys,
What exactly is the reason for disconnecting the battery before beginning the work? Is it in case the fan decides to turn on or something else? I plan to do this next week. Got my DT stuff on order. Thanks.
 
  #59  
Old 04-18-2013, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Carey P
Guys,
What exactly is the reason for disconnecting the battery before beginning the work? Is it in case the fan decides to turn on or something else? I plan to do this next week. Got my DT stuff on order. Thanks.
When you are removing the heat shields, it is very easy to accidentally hit some of the connectors on the back side of the alternator and create a fiery shower of sparks and thus the possibility of fire. It is entirely possible that I know this based on actual experience.
 
  #60  
Old 04-18-2013, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by OreoSAll4
i called a shop in my town that specialized in euro cars. the owner himself owns an R53S. He told me he can probably do the job in 2 hours charging 90/hour. I just need to supply the parts to him. Is this kit all i need to give him and im good to go?

http://www.detroittuned.com/detroit-...-oil-line-kit/
Yes, but you also need to get the Down-pipe Gasket.
 
  #61  
Old 04-18-2013, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Carey P
Guys,
What exactly is the reason for disconnecting the battery before beginning the work? Is it in case the fan decides to turn on or something else? I plan to do this next week. Got my DT stuff on order. Thanks.
Originally Posted by jcauseyfd
When you are removing the heat shields, it is very easy to accidentally hit some of the connectors on the back side of the alternator and create a fiery shower of sparks and thus the possibility of fire. It is entirely possible that I know this based on actual experience.
I am not sure about what jcauseyfd is saying, but if it happened to him then it must be possible. For me however, you would only want to disconnect the battery if you were removing the O2 sensor(s) from their connection. I did not disconnect the battery nor removed them from their respective connections and had no problems or CELs.
 
  #62  
Old 04-18-2013, 08:51 AM
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Thanks guys. Now I know to be very cautious if not disconnecting battery. Don't need to add fireworks to this PITA procedure. I only plan to remove the O2 sensors but not disconnect them so I should be good there. Thanks.
 
  #63  
Old 04-18-2013, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedRacer0212
Yes, but you also need to get the Down-pipe Gasket.

aww dammit. my order already shipped.
 
  #64  
Old 04-20-2013, 09:07 PM
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Just go make a quick stop at the dealer and get one.
 
  #65  
Old 04-26-2013, 05:14 PM
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Just had my DT Oil Line installed. Everything fits perfectly. Love the product, highly recommend if you are looking to replace your oil line.

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However, if you look at the second image, the line is rubbing a bit close to the engine. Should I be worry?
 

Last edited by Ch28Kid; 04-26-2013 at 05:21 PM.
  #66  
Old 04-26-2013, 05:19 PM
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Should be solid. It doesn't look like it's touching anything.
 
  #67  
Old 04-26-2013, 05:28 PM
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Looking at stock photo, my oil line doesn't seem right.
 
  #68  
Old 04-26-2013, 06:07 PM
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Looks very similar to the one the dealer replaced on mine. May be a better connection collar around the braided line.
 
  #69  
Old 04-26-2013, 06:08 PM
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Is that yours in the last photo posted?
 
  #70  
Old 04-26-2013, 06:12 PM
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What year is your S?
 
  #71  
Old 04-26-2013, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Ch28Kid


Looking at stock photo, my oil line doesn't seem right.
Thanks for the pics! Did you install it yourself or have a shop do it for you?

This picture is from the outmotoring website (based on the img link), but comparing the angle of the kink to yours, I'd say they are about the same. It looks to me like both lines are running parallel to the curve of the turbo.
 
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