There may have been a bubble in the system that came through when it warmed up. When the engine cools it sucks water back in and lowers the level in the tank. Fill it back to the max and watch it for a while. It may be nothing.

 

Reposting here since it went to the next page

 

I would not think that the short trips would do that. Our Cooper only does short trips and have never had an issue. As long as there is water in the tank, you won't have a problem with overheating. Check it tomorrow and see how it does at the end of the day, then decide about the autoX. If you do the autoX, just watch it, as you said; I would be doing that anyway.

BTW - Do you have a scangageII so you can watch the engine temp? If not, get one from Autozone or the like and put it in before you go autoX. It is an easy install.

 

Thanks - I will definitely do that. I do not have a scan gauge unfortunately - was hoping not to have to get one just for autox, but I will definitely consider it.

 

I run with it all of the time. I have it set to read volts, pressure (turbo), oil temp and water temp. Best set of gauges...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ni-cooper.html

PS - sorry you don't have oil temp in the earlier Gen IIs

 

Better measure timing chain slack ASAP. If it is more than 68 mm, but less than 70 mm, install the "long" tensioner (easy/cheap). If more than 70 mm, replace entire timing chain system (expensive). You are at the critical mileage for a Justa. Not much racing happens with no motor.......

Please post results/outcome.

DOC

 

Mileage: I think 87,250 ish

 

Scary.. Can you explain a little about the relationship with the timing chain and losing coolant? i.e., bad timing chain is causing coolant loss bc?

Also, not sure how to measure the slack... I bought a Justa to avoid this problem... No other symptoms of a timing chain problem btw, no rattle or anything.

 

Timing chain has nothing to do with coolant loss.

I also haven't heard that the Justa's were having the same timing chain issues as the s models.

However, changing the tensioner is a fairly easy job, it just unscrews from the back passenger side of the head, and a new one goes in.

I think you may have a head gasket issue, if you're not seeing any puddling under the car. Is there any noticable leakage? Any smell of coolant when it runs?

 

i originally assumed head gasket or whatever pump - i haven't noticed any leaking per se

 

My post was not in response to your coolant loss issue (water pump?), but rather to your impending motor loss. Justas DO have catastrophic failures due to excessive timing chain slack. Due to various factors, it just takes more miles than on an N14. (All the same design/parts.) When you get over 72 mm, the OEM tensioner can no longer control the slack, teeth get skipped and no more autocrosses.

You can follow the Bentley manual instructions or Service Bulletin SI M11 02 07 to do it yourself, or have a dealer do it. It takes 30 min to check slack and replace the tensioner. I paid $35 at the parts counter at my dealer for the "long" tensioner.

Pay particular attention to my posts in the following thread:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...0-minis-6.html

(I am a Justa owner. See sig.)

DOC

 

ohh gotcha. Thanks for the tip, I am definitely planning to take care of it some time soon.

 

Car running normally now!

 

So I topped off in the chilly cold last night to here:




and here it is today (less than 1 mile driven, car not even cold):




Seems like I've got a problem?

Looks like the leak is on the passenger side: I've got some droplets on the lip as well as some on the plastic undertray beneath it. No event for me this weekend. Not sure at this point where the leak has been sprung



front facing back of the car:




back facing towards:




i let the car run a little, and oddly enough the expansion tank started filling, and no sign of increased dripping, anything.... thoughts?

 

Aside from the coolant loss issues, I did get the car realigned - basically I asked for max camber in the front, minimum camber in the rear, and close to 0 toe all around. This is what I got:




Not too bad. Looks like the camber mod netted me about -0.2 degrees of camber from both sides - more or less what I expected. I was informed the car hit a really bad pothole on the pass side earlier in the life of the car - probably why the caster is off in the front right.


Unfortunately, I won't be able to use it, since I can't pinpoint where this coolant leak is coming from...

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3723237

 

FWIW, the service at the Mini dealer in St. Louis is laughably expensive

 

took it to a local shop that ran a pressure test (didnt charge a dime for it) - it is the radiator and/or radiator hose that's causing the leak

 

I've had very little need to pay for service at the dealer, the maintenance plan and warranty have taken care of most things. For things which wouldn't be covered I've found a good local independent BMW/MINI shop. Finding a good shop you can trust who have reasonable prices is a very good move.

 

thanks - yeah i bought the car used, no warranty or anything, so any issues that arise I will have to take care of. I was just kind of stunned how ridiculous the dealership was being - beyond what I'm used to with other dealerships.

 

Very very simple install, but I'm trying to be committed in documenting everything I'm doing with the car:

K&N Filter PN #33-2386:



Tool needed for removing the air filter is a little atypical, but fortunately I had it. One tip - you only need to screw the screws out of the bottom part of the housing, and the screws will actually stay in the top portion - no need to worry about them falling out or anything. This is for an 08 base though, so may be different depending on the particular model. Afterwards, all you need to do is replace the top portion of the housing, align the screws, and you're all set.



I've got about five of these flashlights from Harbor Freight (like $3 each!) - it's got many LEDs on the face side, and a single led on the other side - also has a hook and a magnet on the back, and takes triple A batteries! Love these flashlights



Oddly, the K&N filter is much shorter than the OEM/Wix version but it fits:



Wiped down the housing:



New filter in!




Honestly, I couldn't tell a difference with it in, and actually completely forgot I installed it. Probably not any increase in HP - you'd probably only see a difference swapping the entire intake system out. Regardless, happy with the install etc.

 

PS - if anyone needs any Amsoil - I have a dealer account - not to make money off of or anything, so if anyone needs any fluids just LMK, and i'll get you whatever dealer pricing is for it.

 

After a somewhat long hiatus, the Mini will enjoy it's next autocross event this weekend. This is an event that I've been looking forward to for a while, as an old friend of mine and I have made it the starting battleground for a long series of Civic vs Mini races.

However, I wanted to get your opinions on something: Sorry for the bench racing, but which car has the advantage for auto-x in this scenario? Everything on paper suggests the Civic (1997 Civic Hatchback) has the Mini covered -

We will be on the same tires, albeit mine will be 205s to his 185s. Brake pads will be similar. Similar driver level. I just don't see how I can make up for the weight penalty - thoughts?

Pros for 1997 Civic Hatch:
- 2,200 lbs
- Wider, lower, wider track
- Double wishbone front suspension
- Faster acceleration (tested) despite longer gear ratio (reaches 67mph in 2nd)

Cons:
- No ABS
- Slower steering rack
- Rear drum brakes

----------------------------------

Pros for the Mini Cooper base:
- Up to date suspension
- Shorter wheelbase (?)
- ABS

Cons:
- ~350lb!! weight penalty
- Taller
- Sunroof

 

There's one way to find out.

Which model is it? The last Civic I drove was our old 93 DX. I thought that was a fine machine, until we got a MINI. Then the Civic seemed dangerous as it really didn't have the handling of the MINI. You'd do something the MINI would have no trouble with, only to find ourself overdriving the Civic and almost spinning out (on the street, not even autocross).

 

This is a 1997 Civic Hatchback - either DX or CX I'm not sure, not too familiar with them. Interesting about your Civic - Isn't that the gen that was so dominant in AX that it was given its own class (STC)? Sounds like what I'll have going for me is the general suspension/handling, though I don't know how it's going to overcome the weight penalty

 

Is that weight verified? That seems a bit optimistic.

They weren't nearly as competitive as the EF chassis even when they were new. The R50s beat pretty much everything in the class when the came out and on most courses a R56 is faster than a R50.

Its probably a drivers race, it is HS after all. But I wouldn't underestimate that tire advantage either. 185s are like a bicycle tire.