R56 Liqui Moly
#26
It is probably the most expensive oil you can get except possibly the OEM oil...
Honestly, I'm in the minority to believe for the most part oil (of the same type) is oil. In other words full synth to full synth is mostly comparable.
About the only exception to that to me is Mobile 1 which has been proven in many studies to be ahead of the game. I can buy 2 of these for 1 container of your oil from "Germany".
Watch this and see if it helps you decide.
Having said that, I just bought a new Mini and with an unknown oil state at purchase, I will be putting some cheap Castrol in there and changing it out <3000 miles...an oil wash before putting in the "good stuff". It is a mess in my engine and I'm running two different oil treatments to try and clean out the inside which looks like they had a butterscotch festival inside my engine. I will probably use Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush before the castrol and mobile 1.
Honestly, I'm in the minority to believe for the most part oil (of the same type) is oil. In other words full synth to full synth is mostly comparable.
About the only exception to that to me is Mobile 1 which has been proven in many studies to be ahead of the game. I can buy 2 of these for 1 container of your oil from "Germany".
Watch this and see if it helps you decide.
Having said that, I just bought a new Mini and with an unknown oil state at purchase, I will be putting some cheap Castrol in there and changing it out <3000 miles...an oil wash before putting in the "good stuff". It is a mess in my engine and I'm running two different oil treatments to try and clean out the inside which looks like they had a butterscotch festival inside my engine. I will probably use Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush before the castrol and mobile 1.
Last edited by mini-is-for-me; 10-01-2019 at 07:45 PM.
#27
In this day and age of Direct-Injection motors... oil volatility is also an important factor.... as to how much potential you have for leaving deposits on the backside of the intake valves.... Intake Valve Deposits (IVD)
In addition to the viscosity, and mfg ratings....
NOACK numbers, which indicate evaporation loss, are one of the oil rating numbers to look at with our engines that are NOTORIOUS for leaving deposits... especially on the N14 variants though also on ANY of the MINI DI motors.
SAPS and TEOST numbers also are a consideration with IVD.
The factory BMW/Mini LL-01 are horrible in this concern, no wonder the valves coke up!
With Direct injection, there is no fuel passing over the intake valves on the way into the combustion chamber.
Good lubrication with low rates of IVD is what I'm looking for...Regardless of brand.... I have NO favorite brand BTW.
What are the NOACK numbers for the Liqi Molly?
Which 5W-30 Liqui-Molly are you considering?
...
In addition to the viscosity, and mfg ratings....
NOACK numbers, which indicate evaporation loss, are one of the oil rating numbers to look at with our engines that are NOTORIOUS for leaving deposits... especially on the N14 variants though also on ANY of the MINI DI motors.
SAPS and TEOST numbers also are a consideration with IVD.
The factory BMW/Mini LL-01 are horrible in this concern, no wonder the valves coke up!
With Direct injection, there is no fuel passing over the intake valves on the way into the combustion chamber.
Good lubrication with low rates of IVD is what I'm looking for...Regardless of brand.... I have NO favorite brand BTW.
What are the NOACK numbers for the Liqi Molly?
Which 5W-30 Liqui-Molly are you considering?
...
Last edited by mountainhorse; 10-08-2019 at 08:38 PM.
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thebombardier (01-01-2020)
#28
#30
I really don't like this LM oil. My main gripe is I feel like I can't read the dipstick at all with it. Redline was much easier to read. Also Redline has a NOACK number of 6, which is something I never paid attention to before.
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mountainhorse (01-01-2020)
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