I replaced my turbo with a k03/04 hybrid (mine was blown and throwing the p2885 code) all new vac lines and new map and boost pressure sensor along with cleaning out the entire vac system(canister and all) bigger inter-cooler DOS intake OCC and Dual tap block off along with the cleaning of the intake valves(walnut blast) and AP stage 1. Its not throwing the code as much and is building boost again. It only throws the p2885 code now after a hard run stretched over a few miles or minutes(used to not make any boost from start and throw it during normal accel). Could I be building to much boost now? I have the Forge Diverter with the stiffer spring. I just want to be able to drive my car a little hard without throwing the code and restarting the car. Any ideas? Is there a tune that can override the system?

 

Um... You did this without a tune? Upgraded injectors?

 

Ap stage 1 tune like i said.

 

When was the last time it had a VANOS actuator or VANOS actuator solenoid. Mine did the samething. I change them. It pulled 5th gear to 6000 rpm after that but if I ran hard and heat soaked it, it would go into limp mode but no throw a code. Didn't have a FMIC at that time. Ported the head installed FMIC. Still waiting
For upgraded turbo. Same you to see if it still does it

 

Vanos? Im sorry not sure what that is.

 

its the variable acuator the changes the intake cam timeing. its controlled by an electric solenoid that regulates oil pressure to the actuator to advance and retard the cam timing relative to how you are driving. its been known to cause issues due to the oil passages that feed the oil get crapped up. 07-10 mostly. the solenoid is easy to replace and relative easy to put in. its on the right side of the head by the intake. above the water pump held in by a 10mm bolt.( the head) they redesigned it as well if you still have the original installed. its definately cheaper to try that if thats it rather than changing a 400 and sum dollar actuator that a shop should really do cause they will have to take the timing chain loose to change it. its kind of involved.

 

i have a spare head that i could take a photo of where it is located and a spare cam with the actuator on it if it woould help you undestand better ?

 

Just curious but it seems to be at the right angles that are required according to my AP. That being said the car ran low on oil thats what caused my turbo to fail well kinda the oil seal in it went out and thus pushed the oil into the trubo running low. Timing chain was replaced about 20k ago. The boost has gotten up to 22-23 psi with the new turbo( only 54 miles on it since i put it back together.

 

How many miles on the car ? We're this VANOS parts ever changed ?

 

Please forgive me of my ignorance. I'm an old school type of guy messing with a new car. What is AP ?

 

The computer also knows how long it takes for the turbo to make a given boost level. If it does it to fast or slow the computers eyes get cross eyed. It also has a limit as to how high the boost well go in the computer that can't be changed. That's another issue with our computers

 

To replace that many major engine performance parts without an ACTUAL custom tune boggles the mind to me. A canned tune is not 100% perfect for every car. It's a general guide and should absolutely be tweaked by a professional tuner. You can't just slap every upgraded part on a car and expect the computer and engine to pick up what's going on and just up the power and have no issues. My first step of advice: Find a professional tuner with experience in foreign cars and talk with them about a custom tune to YOUR car, YOUR engine, and YOUR combo of parts. Not some tune in a can

 

http://www.vividracing.com/blog/anno...ni-accessport/

Alta Port. Hand held ECU programmer. Boosts stock HP by raising boost pressure from the turbo/fuel/timing changes.

 

This is a VERY good point since I have heavily mod'd my motor I will be seeking a dyno tune after it is running by brenn tuneing

 

With your turbo upgrade are you now building boost later than stock rpm's? This will cause the 2885 code to come back and you need to flash the ecu for it.

Have you smoke tested the intercooler lines to make sure you are not experiencing a leak in the hoses?

If I recall, there is about 8 or so different components that can throw that 2885 code. It looks like you replaced several if not all of them.

Not that this is the same problem, but I was having consistant 2885's while I had an OCC. Removed it just to test and went back to the oem tube and code went away. Not a permanent fix, but I think i had a leak in the OCC path. Ultimately my turbo failed before I ever put the OCC back in.

 

It does feel as if it is building a little later. Whats odd is its never consistant. Drove all day on and off and only threw it once first drive of the day but it wasnt right off the bat.

 

After my oversized turbo install was dyno tuned, I was told by the tuner to expect boost problems under certain conditions. Expected boost came too late to satisfy the ECU --- usually when accelerating too hard in too high a gear. Almost always threw a P2885. The AP will clear the code "on the fly", without stopping, just an inconvenience (use the "CLEAR CODE" feature, not the "RESET ECU". Didn't take long to learn new driving habits --- don't accelerate hard without being in boost (positive manifold pressure), in my case, about 3600 RPM.

After a couple more remote tunes on the AP, the code happens a lot less. Tuner told me that timing was changed slightly, along with other changes to match new mods. I still throw the 2885, and sometimes a 2884, but only when I get careless.

 

I think im learning this as well. Just drove the car from nw ohio to gatlinburg tn today and didnt throw it once.

 

Lotsa highway driving, cruise control, and casual passing techniques should not cause a code. I'd get one trying to pass quickly in 6th gear --- MISTAKE! Same thing climbing a mountain grade without downshifting --- can't boost and load without 3600 or more RPM's.

 

Brokenwind.... Which turbo upgrade did you choose ? I'm doing mine now at GPOP SHOP. KO3 to KO4. I ported the head and ceramic coated the valves, int and exh ports as well as combustion chamber. Upgraded from stock intercooler to a forged FMIC along with a boost tube delete pipe. Do you think I may encounter the same issue as you with the bigger turbo upgrade ? After a brenn tune of coarse on a dyno.

 

I'm using a Garrett GT28RS --- way to big for the R56. So, no, you shouldn't have as much turbo grief as I do. However, if you do start throwing the P2885 code, consider the driving habits I mentioned earlier. I've heard good things about GPOP, good luck.

Most of my upgrades are mentioned in my "garage", with a couple pics. I'll include my signature this time, most are there too. I suggest you work with your tuner to minimize the possibility of throwing a code 2885 --- timing?Check out my dyno chart --- http://www.accessecu.com/dyno/ the only Mini at their Surgeline facility. The 17 - 20 PSI boost chart isn't posted, but the AP map is good for 6 more HP and a couple more ft/lbs of torque.

An opinion --- your bigger turbo will be real happy with a ported head. You need a large diameter exhaust system now, to efficiently get rid of the exhaust --- at least a 2 1/2" system. Mine's 3" and catless.

Sounds like you're building a fun machine. I hope you're not in or near Northern NV. I'm claiming "one of, if not THE baddest Mini in Northern NV". I don't really want competition, and you might be able to provide it.

 

I'll check out your garage. I just got done posting all the mods I just completed last week. Just put the head back on today. It actually has a 2 1/2" down pipe with a hi-flow cat and the second deleted. I'm in the south jersey area. You got know worries brother. Cams will be installed in October. Lmao. I can't wait. I do have a spare head that I was doing. It's alittle more worked than the one I used. Chose not to use it because of tune issues I was having. Had I known what I know now I would have used it instead. Never know. It might be for sale soon.

 

SPRINTCARS - From one old school guy to another ---
There's a thread in this forum by Alta for their AccessPort --- https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rt-thread.html I've had mine for a couple years now. It stores canned maps and any custom maps created for your Mini. It also reads / clears any codes you might throw, monitors / displays any OBD function, datalogs multiple functions (necessary for remote tuning), and several other features. Since AP support is "changing", you might not want to make that particular choice. Check with your tuner to see if they provide a way to change maps easily, to preserve warranty and dealer map upgrades. There are a couple other similar devices, but I know little-to-nothing about them.

 

Im runnin the gpop hybrid

 

How do you like it compared to the factory turbo ?