R56 Major steering issue. Need experienced opinions.
#1
Major steering issue. Need experienced opinions.
I'm at a loss for what to do with my car.
It's a 2007, which probably has something to do with it, and it is a 6 speed manual.
I can drive it, but have to be VERY cautious. This video shows what happens on a cold start for the first time at idle. (neutral, no clutch)
If you listen carefully, after the wheel "bounces," you can hear a click. Maybe some safety feature malfunction? I rarely get a power steering warning on the tach, but when I do, it is because I am being forced to pull the wheel as hard as I can to avoid hitting someone or something.
Going to the dealer is an absolute last resort as I have access to my own lift and whatever tools I may need to either replace parts or fix what I have.
The battery is BRAND NEW, 3 days old. After I replaced it, the problem subsided for a day or two but now it's back and worse than before.
Thank you for your help and hopefully this thread can help someone else in the future.
It's a 2007, which probably has something to do with it, and it is a 6 speed manual.
I can drive it, but have to be VERY cautious. This video shows what happens on a cold start for the first time at idle. (neutral, no clutch)
If you listen carefully, after the wheel "bounces," you can hear a click. Maybe some safety feature malfunction? I rarely get a power steering warning on the tach, but when I do, it is because I am being forced to pull the wheel as hard as I can to avoid hitting someone or something.
Going to the dealer is an absolute last resort as I have access to my own lift and whatever tools I may need to either replace parts or fix what I have.
The battery is BRAND NEW, 3 days old. After I replaced it, the problem subsided for a day or two but now it's back and worse than before.
Thank you for your help and hopefully this thread can help someone else in the future.
#2
#3
#4
It's definitely an electrical problem, but I have no idea how to diagnose what or why.
#5
#6
#7
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#9
It isn't safe at all. I use extreme caution when driving and avoid going under 10mph when this happens. But the weird thing is, it only does this sometimes. Other times it's fine and functions normally.
I hope not. I don't think it's anything physical because it isn't consistent.
I hope not. I don't think it's anything physical because it isn't consistent.
#11
Thanks everybody for your suggestions. They've helped. Buying expensive parts and bringing it to the dealer is still a last option.
#12
On early and mid model 2007 R56 MINIs they have a steering Lock Box that is located under the column. Some times this has be connected to the steering wheel completely locking up and then inserting the key does not unlock the column. Since you have a 2007 is might be attributed to the problem. Can you hear the unit unlock and lock each time you take the key in/out ? Check the connection at the box of this unit.
32306786964
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32306786964/ES240664/
& the bolts 32306773699
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32306773699/ES52654/
I would also check the electrical connection at the rack #4 and #5 .
Also electrical connections at the slip ring on the steering column. This controls mostly the steering angle measurements for the computer DSC.
That pretty much covers the steering wheel.
Thanks
32306786964
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32306786964/ES240664/
& the bolts 32306773699
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32306773699/ES52654/
I would also check the electrical connection at the rack #4 and #5 .
Also electrical connections at the slip ring on the steering column. This controls mostly the steering angle measurements for the computer DSC.
That pretty much covers the steering wheel.
Thanks
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; 12-07-2015 at 10:14 AM.
#13
I do NOT have experience working on the electric power steering systems, especially on MINIs so take this for what its worth, but this is what I know in general.
There should be an electric motor that mounts on either the steering column or on the steering rack. I think on the mini it is mounted on the rack, but not 100% sure. There is also some sensors on the steering column(again, mini may be different) that monitor torque on the steering column as well as position. This may or may not be built into the clock spring. There is also a control module that monitors everything. My best guess is that you have a sensor failing in some way, or the system has lost calibration and needs to be recalibrated. I'm putting my money on the sensor, but regardless, that is what I would look into first. From the video, it almost appears as if something is telling the motor to kick in unnecessarily, it realizes its not right, then puts the brakes on it somehow. My guess is the torque sensor is not reading correctly.
There should be an electric motor that mounts on either the steering column or on the steering rack. I think on the mini it is mounted on the rack, but not 100% sure. There is also some sensors on the steering column(again, mini may be different) that monitor torque on the steering column as well as position. This may or may not be built into the clock spring. There is also a control module that monitors everything. My best guess is that you have a sensor failing in some way, or the system has lost calibration and needs to be recalibrated. I'm putting my money on the sensor, but regardless, that is what I would look into first. From the video, it almost appears as if something is telling the motor to kick in unnecessarily, it realizes its not right, then puts the brakes on it somehow. My guess is the torque sensor is not reading correctly.
#14
I do NOT have experience working on the electric power steering systems, especially on MINIs so take this for what its worth, but this is what I know in general.
There should be an electric motor that mounts on either the steering column or on the steering rack. I think on the mini it is mounted on the rack, but not 100% sure. There is also some sensors on the steering column(again, mini may be different) that monitor torque on the steering column as well as position. This may or may not be built into the clock spring. There is also a control module that monitors everything. My best guess is that you have a sensor failing in some way, or the system has lost calibration and needs to be recalibrated. I'm putting my money on the sensor, but regardless, that is what I would look into first. From the video, it almost appears as if something is telling the motor to kick in unnecessarily, it realizes its not right, then puts the brakes on it somehow. My guess is the torque sensor is not reading correctly.
There should be an electric motor that mounts on either the steering column or on the steering rack. I think on the mini it is mounted on the rack, but not 100% sure. There is also some sensors on the steering column(again, mini may be different) that monitor torque on the steering column as well as position. This may or may not be built into the clock spring. There is also a control module that monitors everything. My best guess is that you have a sensor failing in some way, or the system has lost calibration and needs to be recalibrated. I'm putting my money on the sensor, but regardless, that is what I would look into first. From the video, it almost appears as if something is telling the motor to kick in unnecessarily, it realizes its not right, then puts the brakes on it somehow. My guess is the torque sensor is not reading correctly.
On early and mid model 2007 R56 MINIs they have a steering Lock Box that is located under the column. Some times this has be connected to the steering wheel completely locking up and then inserting the key does not unlock the column. Since you have a 2007 is might be attributed to the problem. Can you hear the unit unlock and lock each time you take the key in/out ? Check the connection at the box of this unit.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32306786964/ES240664/
& the bolts
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32306773699/ES52654/
I would also check the electrical connection at the rack #4 and #5 .
Also electrical connections at the slip ring on the steering column. This controls mostly the steering angle measurements for the computer DSC.
That pretty much covers the steering wheel.
Thanks
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32306786964/ES240664/
& the bolts
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32306773699/ES52654/
I would also check the electrical connection at the rack #4 and #5 .
Also electrical connections at the slip ring on the steering column. This controls mostly the steering angle measurements for the computer DSC.
That pretty much covers the steering wheel.
Thanks
Anyways again, thank you so much for this info! This will definitely help me from going in blind on this job.
#15
If it helps any, when car is not moving or moving very slowly, that is when the most power assist is used. The system is designed to dial back the amount of power assist the faster the car goes, because at faster speeds you just don't need as much, and you get better road feedback the less assist you have. This is why I am inclined to think it is a torque sensor, because at a lower speed it is sensing more torque than at any other time, and telling it to use the most power.
#16
According to eautorepair, this setup is a little different than I thought. It is a hydraulic power steering system driven by an electric motor. Based on that, first thing I would do is make sure you have plenty of fluid. It takes Pentosin CHF 11S. There is also a steering angle sensor at bottom of upper column. There is also a cooling fan just for cooling the EHPS motor. This does not communicate with the control module. It is supposed to turn on when engine cooling fan is on.
It wont let me copy and paste, but it also says the when no steering assistance is required, the pump will draw about 7 amps(idle with no steering input). This is about 80% capacity. When wheel is moved, pressure is increased. This info is sent to module which tells pump to run at 100% capacity. It will average about 11.5 amps but is capable of drawing as much as 120 amps.
Anyway, ignore what I said about assist changing at higher speeds, as it seems this system doesn't work that way.
It wont let me copy and paste, but it also says the when no steering assistance is required, the pump will draw about 7 amps(idle with no steering input). This is about 80% capacity. When wheel is moved, pressure is increased. This info is sent to module which tells pump to run at 100% capacity. It will average about 11.5 amps but is capable of drawing as much as 120 amps.
Anyway, ignore what I said about assist changing at higher speeds, as it seems this system doesn't work that way.
#17
According to eautorepair, this setup is a little different than I thought. It is a hydraulic power steering system driven by an electric motor. Based on that, first thing I would do is make sure you have plenty of fluid. It takes Pentosin CHF 11S. There is also a steering angle sensor at bottom of upper column. There is also a cooling fan just for cooling the EHPS motor. This does not communicate with the control module. It is supposed to turn on when engine cooling fan is on.
It wont let me copy and paste, but it also says the when no steering assistance is required, the pump will draw about 7 amps(idle with no steering input). This is about 80% capacity. When wheel is moved, pressure is increased. This info is sent to module which tells pump to run at 100% capacity. It will average about 11.5 amps but is capable of drawing as much as 120 amps.
Anyway, ignore what I said about assist changing at higher speeds, as it seems this system doesn't work that way.
It wont let me copy and paste, but it also says the when no steering assistance is required, the pump will draw about 7 amps(idle with no steering input). This is about 80% capacity. When wheel is moved, pressure is increased. This info is sent to module which tells pump to run at 100% capacity. It will average about 11.5 amps but is capable of drawing as much as 120 amps.
Anyway, ignore what I said about assist changing at higher speeds, as it seems this system doesn't work that way.
#18
That's what my plan of attack is right now. With electrical it's always the stupid stuff. I just contacted MINI about my warranty and the only thing I have left of it is oil changes, air filter... etc. The only thing that is confusing me is why would it do this at idle and low low speeds, but not at regular speeds? If it were a bad sensor wouldn't it always be doing this? Anyways, thank you for your input. I hope you're right about it being a sensor.
If you listen carefully in the video, after the wheel kicks back you can hear a tap or click. Is this what you're talking about? I have the comfort access fob so I don't ever put the fob in the slot. Honestly it never leaves my pocket unless I want to open the windows remotely. The wheel doesn't seem to lock in place when the car is off.
Anyways again, thank you so much for this info! This will definitely help me from going in blind on this job.
If you listen carefully in the video, after the wheel kicks back you can hear a tap or click. Is this what you're talking about? I have the comfort access fob so I don't ever put the fob in the slot. Honestly it never leaves my pocket unless I want to open the windows remotely. The wheel doesn't seem to lock in place when the car is off.
Anyways again, thank you so much for this info! This will definitely help me from going in blind on this job.
George - this is a sealed system for the R56+ we are talking about, the CHF 11S is for the R50 R52 R53 models that have the separate electric pump / fan.
Jacob - The wheel is either being locked in place temporarily by the steering column lock under the wheel or the PS is kicking off then on and bouncing back. I can here what sounds like the lock cylinder, but its hard to tell. I would listen under the column now since you can see the location of the lock mechanism, which was only on early R56's (up to 7.2007) by the etk.
With comfort access is the same once you get in the car the and shut the door with the key in your pocket you can hear the steering lock unlock under the column.
Thanks
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#20
#21
The low power fan isn't working as it should and apparently that's what is causing the issue. I don't know if I agree with this, but I'm replacing it and I will post my results. Until then I'm driving my 2005 Ford F-150.
#22
#24
Will do!