cub4bearindiana, it's about 1" further down from your finger, deeper into the engine bay, I think. Look for the cross-headed black plastic screw...

Mine's an N18 MCS built in Dec 2011 and bought Feb 2012; so it ought to be the same as yours.

I've attached a couple of pics of mine that I took 10 mins ago. The red blob is a led torch shining on it. IMO it's really hard to see unless you shine a light on it.

 

ps, it looks like you might have a part of the wiring harness going left to right above your coolant bleed screw.
I've also had the 'thermostat enhancement' done at the dealer (which might have been done on danjreed's 2013 at the factory). If you haven't, then this might explain why we're not hidden by that bit of black plastic harness and you might be...

 

Guys!


No screw to be found in that same area as you all have. In that same spot I have this plastic thin hose (kinda like a wire cover) going in.
I gave up.

Btw. Bought my car brand new may 2011 but it was build in September 2010.
Any other way to do coolant flush on my own if I can't get or find that screw?

 

cub4bearindiana this is really strange...

I've looked up RealOEM for a US spec N18 MCS build date Sep 2010 and all your thermostat housing numbers are the same as mine, which definitely has a bleed screw.

I'd suggest raising this issue with your local dealer, even asking him to get a thermostat housing in specifically for your VIN no. (Rumour has it they're in short supply, though.) Trouble is; he'll say its 'sealed for life' and you won't need to renew the coolant, won't he?

I'm really curious to know the outcome of this! I wonder if anyone else on NAM with a similar MCS build date can offer any clues or has a tstat housing like yours?

Good luck. Please let us know the eventual outcome

 

I wish I had dealer in my town. Closest is 100 miles away. Damn

Ill try take more pics of that spot.

 

So I tried to make another attempt to find that darn screw and no luck.
I swear I'm not that stupid lol
Wish dealer was closer, so I could ask.
Now I have all that destillated water and coolant seating here without use lol

 

Bit of an old thread but I wanted to let cub4bear know he's not crazy and yes that's the exact spot the bleeder valve is on most minis. Mine is a 2011 also, was built in Nov 2010 and has the exact same setup. An extra sensor located where the bleeder screw should be. Interestingly enough the Bentley manual doesn't even mention using the bleeder screw. It discusses using a pneumatic venturi to place a vacuum on the reservoir instead. Probably because that is the highest point in the system. Didn't have a venturi when I flushed mine so I used a shop vac. Worked like a champ. Just applied and removed the vacuum several times and the system burped like crazy till all the air was gone.

 

At least not where the service manual and pictures by others have shown it to be.


To flush the radiator I disconnect bottom hose and top hose from radiator and use a garden hose to run water from the top until it drained clear.


To flush engine I reconnected the hoses and filled the reservoir with water until water level stabilized then with cap off I turned the car on and poured more water in until the water level stopped dropping. Then I installed the reservoir cap and let the car continue to warm up. After about 5/10min I turned the car off and slowly removed cap. Then I disconnected bottom hose and watched more old diluted antifreeze pour out. Careful it might come out warm or hot depending on how long you let it run. You could let it cool off if your not in a rush. I repeated the steps of refilling, draining, and flushing radiator until only clear water drained.


P.s
I didn't reinstall the hard to remove "clamps/clips" on the rubber hoses each time during the flushing. Just move them back out of the way until you're ready for the new antifreeze.


Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic, just a DIYer who has read a lot of thread and a service manual on how to do this. Of course the way I did it was a little different from the service manual as I could not find the "bleeder" referenced in the book.

 

Would you please share the page describing the venturi vacuum procedure. I feel I have missed an important step.

 

I did the coolant flush back in November last year on my '11 MCS. Up until I sold the car yesterday I noticed very slowly that the coolant started to disappear and cause my water temp to rise above 225 constantly. Did anyone else get this problem? Thanks.

 

A bit embarrassing, but I finally found the bleeder. Not exactly where others have shown it to be, but near there just more hidden. Hopefully the pictures will help others. Good luck.
sorry, I don't know why photos are not showing.

 

Sorry for the delay in responding. The vacuum coolant bleeding procedure starts on page 170-8 and goes thru 170-11 of the Bentley manual. It calls for a pneumatic venturi type vacuum but a wet/dry shop vac will serve the same purpose. No coolant escaping and dripping everywhere and pretty easy.

 

This is my current issue. After listening very carefully, I also do not hear the fan coming on....even once it reaches 225. Before MINI did the thermostat and water pump fixes, it would come on at 220 and temps never rose above that.

 

I have a leak at one of the connections under the bleed screw behind the battery box.





It is leaking from the bottom hose clamp. I'm pretty sure all I have to do to get to it is remove the battery box. Is there anything I should prepare for? I've never messed with the cooling system besides keeping it topped up. What is the easiest way to access this hose and fix the leak?

'02 hardtop 80k miles

 

I have a large compressor and have been wanting a way to expedite these coolant flushes. so this will push out all the coolant even from the heater core and pull in new coolant?

 

did a flush yesterday and not getting any heat. I bleeded the system, but still not heat. The car is not over heating it seems to be pretty stable. I do feels the heater core is warm/hot but no heat. Please help.

Any of you have been able to figure out why there is not heat. I purchased the car a months ago and never tired the heat, So i don't even know if it actually worked before i did the flush.

I put the AC on and moved the temp to the hot and notting but cold air comes out. it feels like nothing changes.

 

Did you open the bleeder screw on the top of the motor? Are you sure you bled the system for long enough with the heat on max?

 

I think I did. I broke the bleeder screw so using a temp screw till the one I ordered comes. I'm going to try it again when I get it.

Just curious if any of the servo motors or any sensors is no good, would the car give me some kind of indicator?

Would the car work fine if there is air in the system or you are thinking there is air in the heater core?

Just a note the heater core cover is warm/hot when I touch the panel that covers it. Also engine temp seems to be working fine (stable).

 

I was looking at the Bently book and to get to some of this servos/sensor the hole dash need to be removed. Not looking forward to doing this so i'm hoping aND praying It just air. Don't know if this is normal or not but when I switch the vents to push air to feet and face it feels like 80% would blow to the feet.


Thank your for the help in advance.

 

Can you provide some more info? Like how long did you burp it for? How old is car? Mileage?

1. No you cannot drive the car with bleeder screw missing. Coolant will pour out of the hole once warm. In fact had you bled it till hot, you would have noticed that.

2. The bleeder "screw" is a plastic plug. It looks like metal from the top but its not and its delicate.

Just try again my man. You will get heat. So, take of the coolant expansion tank, loosen the the bleeder screw,put the heater on max heat and let the car run until you get heat. You may need to give it gas to raise RPMs.

If the thermostat opens and coolant starts pouring out of the expansion tank, DONT WORRY. Just turn off the engine immediately, top off tank and close bleeder screw. By then you should have gotten heat.

Yes some coolant will come from bleeder screw hole.

Youll get heat. It took me 30 minutes in 85 F degree ambient to get heat from car.

 

I have a 2011 MCS MT with 68K when i got it. It currenly had 69K. I was doing all the maintenance work on the car just to make sure i have a start Point.

I was burped it for about 30 mins. when no more bubbles come out that is when i closed the bleeder screw and broke it when i went hulk on it.

1. yah i know that why i had to go get something the screw is a M10x24 1". Hard sucker to find.

2. Found out the hard way. ordered a metal one. Manual said it suppose to be torqued to 1.4 lb

I'm going to try again after i get this screw. I really hope that is my problem.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

Your car is like new bro. I doubt anything is wrong with the heater core.

ok cool you did it the right way, you just didnt wait long enough. Try raising RPMs a few times. I waited till the bleeder hole started dripping actively.

IF you got a little heat but not full heat you just needed to wait a little longer.

The other option is to order a coolant system vacuum tool. Schwaben sells one....yes Mr. ECS Mystery Man will post the link. $75. I have one from AIRLIFT out of Canada which is great as well. It will show you if you have any leaks in the system and pull the vast majority of air pockets out and you can use it even if you system is partially full of coolant and then it will draw coolant into the vacuum. However you shouldnt need it. But then again I love any excuse to buy a tool.

Weird that the bleeder screw is plastic but looks metallic on top. Its really a very delicate bleeder despite its looks.

Keep us posted bro.

 

Trying to figure out how this work, seeing some youtube videos now LOL.

So with this tool there is zero need for bleeding? can you give me a break down of the steps. I just dont understand how it would get to the heater core if if it closed. Sorry for the stupid question, but i guess when you don't know how something works it seems like magic lol. Can this be used to suck out all of the coolant in the system as well?

I already ordered it.

 

Well, you need a compressor to use the tool.

The tool uses venturi effect to create suction and pulls the majority of the air out of the system, including the heater core. In some cars you need to have the ignition on and heater set to high to have the heater core reach a vacuum. Then you let the vacuum you've created pull new coolant into every bit of the cooling passages.

I didnt have the ignition on or heater on during vacuuming process and I was able to get heat.

 

Couldn't i use this to suck up the old Coolant as well?