This is how I understand it. 1. The venturi is too weak and 2. the venturi is caused by a tiny hole that would be weakened by the flow of the coolant through it.

No pump can pull ALL the coolant from the system. Best you can do is drain as much as possible, and or flush it a few times to dilute what remains in the system and the vacuum out the air and fill the voids.

 

So were you able to get proper heat bro?

 

I'm getting heat now or at least it feels like heat and not hot ambient air, so maybe it was just Air in the system and maybe it vented out from the replacement screw i was using since i had broken off the OE plastic bleeder screw that was there. I installed it yesterday, which i thought was the problem, but was preparing myself for the worst.

Haven't even used the tool, but will be doing it today regardless. I know for a fact that the system as too much water since i was able to put in about 1.5g of distilled water before the bleeder screw broke. hoping when the vacuum is being created that it actually holds the vacuum. Ill let you know.

 

If it has too much coolant/water the expansion bottle will be past full. Just suck some out with a plastic turkey baster from supermarket.

If your coolant expansion tank is full I'm not sure the tool will work because there is no access to the voids in the rest of the system because the coolant expansion tank is full of liquid and blocking the ability of the tool to pull a vacuum.

Also if it wasn't holding vacuum you'd have been seeing coolant leaking or smelling it as car reached operating temps.

 

I have never used a coolant evacuation tool, but man if you have access to compressed air, and $80 this is the tool/way to go.

I think the hardness part would be trying to get all the coolant out of the system. after that it would be easy to fill.

Before drain the rad out, i left the car in the on position without running the engine, put the heat on high and fan on low. removed the expansion tank cap off, took off lower rad hose off, after the rad didn't have anymore to give. I turned on the car with the lower rad hose off and waited till the car got to about 220f and the fans kicked in and got more to come out. shut the car off but left the heat on high and the fan on low. connected the tool and put the compressed air on, The needle went all the way up to 15 (don’t know the symbol/unit of measure for Vacuum) and left it there for other min or until it couldn’t get pass 17 vacuum. Took off the air. let it sit there while i was prepping the coolant to see if it dropped, no drop, put the suction hose in the new coolant and open the valve up. i mean less then a min later it was full. No need to bleed or anything. Now I’m getting too much heat lol. Love this thing. Better too much heat then no heat.

Now if there was only a affordable tool that can do this to suck the coolant out?

Thanks Lex.

 

Awesome bro. So clearly you had air in the system.

Hmmm...I dont know if I would be bold enough to run the car to operating temps and then immediately drain all the coolant while it was running. Only because you could develop some very hot spots in the motor as the pump pushes the remaining coolant out when the thermostat is open. BUT that method will net you the most coolant removal.

When I flush my cars, I dump as much old coolant as possible, then fill with distilled water, run to op temps, let cool, dump again and repeat until its almost 90%-95% distilled water, then I dump again, add pure coolant (FIRST) and then distilled water to get a 50/50.

Hey do you think the tool you bought would work with lots of different size openings? I'm curious because mine does but its a different brand. AIRLIFT

 

Yah they give you different size fittings. if i remember correctly it has a 30mm/32mm/35mm/40mm/45mm and a fitting which kind of funnels, so i'm going to assume it more or less a universal trying to cover what every else they missed.

I would normally remove the Tstat, but this car housing is like a heart and very complex and you would need to remove too much to even get to it. Regarding running the engine to get all out is not crazy as you think and i idled it to temp not drive it to temp.

 

Cool bro. Thanks for the info.

 

Ok so im at a lost at this moment. I was getting heat. Today it was like 50 and i went and turned on the heat and got nothing but cool air.

Is it possible something is wrong with the thermostat housing. The coolant not flowing to the heater core.

 

Ok so i took pictures of temp of everything and everything seems to be inline and i should be getting heat so please help me out.

The hoses in the engine bay are relevant just like this. The upper rad house is hot and the lower is cooler and the heater house hoses temp are about the same.

So im starting to lean more to the actual controls. But everything seems to work just fine. If i put the ac/fan speed/change to blow to feet, face, feet and face ect. I mean isnt this just one connector and if this was the case wouldn't the entire thing fail. I thought is was the Tstat but after getting temp reads, i cant say that is not the problem. Im pretty sure there is no air in the system. Kind of want to take it to a dealer, but i know they are just wrench monkeys most of them and are going to want to do stupid S that more then likely wont fix the problem until im like $2k under. And if throwing parts at the problem is what they are going to do i can do that myself. So kind of looking for TS steps before i start to order anything.

I have a Bently manual but it seems like it more replace it book then helping you figure out the problems.




Inlet temp





Outlet based on temp since i dont know.





Vent temp





Heater core temp

 

Dude, good work so far! So the heater core temp is 161 and still not heat? Is it that hot on BOTH sides of the core? In and out?

Is your cabin air filter totally dirty by any chance?

 

ok wait, my bad, you posted inlet and outlet temps. how close are you to the expected temps? I dont have that info in front of me. 161 F sounds pretty close to correct.

 

Nop that was replaced with all the other maintenance things i did when i got the car.

I'm starting to think the T stat is going. Don't really want to get one to be at square one again or maybe the magical air pockets.

I was monitoring the coolant temp today and the way it changes in temp in like 3-5 readings makes no sense.
It can be at 210f then start to drop and in like matter of 5-10 seconds it already at 192. I know euro cars are hyped to be beter then US/Asian cars and all, but i have never seen such an efficient radiator lol. It would go back to 195 and drop down to 188. I'm getting zero bubbles from the bleeder screw, By the looks of my picture looks like all the coolant is circulating properly. Just not getting how enough heat is being produced, but no heat coming out. Last time before getting the tool i had the same problem and after a while i started to get heat had to flush it because the system was mostly water and i live in a cold climate. Even right after doing the refill with the tool. So i'm hoping this is really air and nothing else. I was thinking of cracking the bleeder screw alittle and going for a drive and see what happens.

Is this T stat controll mechanically or electronically? and if electronically would you get a CEL if it opening and staying open to long? I'm really starting to think maybe the T stat is going, based on the coolant efficiency (cooling down too fast) Tstat not expensive, but wouldn't want to throw money away.

I would perfer to do all the troubleshooting, before i start getting parts. Man i wouldn't even mind taking the whole dash appart and test stuff with my multimeter. Guess just need to know the values to look for. Im going to look at this Bentley book again and maybe get a sub at DIY alldata for this car. I guess my frustration is not knowing what wrong and not having the ability to figure it out or the steps to do so and not trusting the stealerships to be able to do this as well.

The only solutions would be to throw money at the problem, but wouldn't want to be in a predicament where i throw $500 at the problem and then it turned out to be something like a sensor osomewhere which cost $40 at the end of the day.

Im going to make a post in 2nd gen stock problems to see if i can get more eyes on this.

Thank you for the help Lex. And if you have any other suggestions let me know. I will be removing the filter and running the car without one. I really dont think this will do anything but im willing to try anything at this moment.

 

In most cars if the T stat stays open the car will take forever to warm up and you will get a check engine light.

There is a TEMP SENSOR for HEATER CORE, part 64119240180. It may be bad. Its behind the heater control.





The core may be clogged...but since it coincides with your coolant flush, I bet there is air in it still.

I would open the bleeder and coolant expansion bottle and run it until you get hear and it starts to overflow from bleeder, then shut down immediately (put a pan under to catch the fluid). Then close both, top off bottle and let her cool and see if you get heat next warm up.

 

There is also a SERVODRIVE for mixing which may be bad:

 

And a servo for outdoor air crculation.

 

Unbeknownst to me there is also an electric heater...

 

Regarding the engine thermostat:

The thermostat is located in the cylinder head and is retained by a plastic housing (aluminum on COOPER S).

The thermostat begins to open at 89-92�C and is fully open at 103�C.

See also: http://allaboutautomotive.com/blog/m...-temperatures/

Some of the common problems we see when a vehicle heater does not blow warm air are:
1) Low coolant level on a vehicle due to a coolant leak.
2) Thermostat that is stuck open.
3) Plugged or leaking heater core.
4) Heater blower that is not functioning.
5) Blend doors that are not functioning properly

 

First let me start by saying thank for the help.

So is there anyway i can test to see if this parts are defective Measuring resistance or voltage or something that would indicate is out of spec, before going down the road of throwing parts at the problem $$.

I mean there is zero bubbles coming out of the bleeder screw and i let the car cool a little and release the pressure by opening the overflow tank slowly, i figure any air in the system would come out of here. but temp wise everything matches up so i don't even think heater core is clogged. I want to do this last since it will make a mess no matter how careful i am when i remove the tubes of the heater core.

Here is a picture of the bleeder screw it has about 4 turns i mean ZERO bubbles.

 

Here is a picture of the HVAC system.

 

I made a new Thread more related to the actual problem.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4131896

Lex if you can comment in there. thanks i guess

 

Reviving an old thread. Changed my coolant over the past 10 days or so by draining and then filling with distilled water five times on my 2013 R56 S after 56k miles. Started things off with one bottle of Prestone Flush & Cleaner and went for a Georgia MINIs & Coffee meet on on October 25 to Summerville, GA.

Didn't have any issues getting the air out of the system each time or getting the heater to work. Found that during the draining process, using my Master Blaster and blowing air into the coolant reservoir help get a couple more quarters of liquid out of system. Picture of the collected coolant below.