I couldn't find a thread about how to replace the vacuum pump. Can anyone give me instructions? I would hate to assume it could just be bolted on and then screw up my engine. Thanks for any help and/or advice.

 

Been meaning to ask what's the intended function of the vacuum pump? Doesn't it just give a vacuum source for the rpm gauge?

 

The only thing I know about the vacuum pump is it is connected to the brake booster. My dealer said it needed to be replaced because of the brake pedal pressure. Can it fail partially or does it fail 100%? When does it lock up and shut the engine down? Dealer wants $670 to replace. Can the vacuum be checked? Trying to decide to bite bullet of not

 

Hello,

Did you ever figure out how to replace the vacuum pump. I noticed mine is leaking and will either need to do it myself or take it in if it is beyond my skill level.

Thanks!

 

Don't spend unnecessary money on a new pump when you could just remove the two bolts holding it to the head, clean the mess, attain a new O-ring or apply a small amount of black RTV around the existing O-ring, reinstall.

If you do decide to RTV the O-ring, make sure not to seal the oil recess at the bottom of the pump, as it is there to allow oil to drain back into the head.

But there are two bolts that hold it in, and it keys into the exhaust cam, aside from that it is a very straight forward job.

Nick
Detroit Tuned

 

I totally agree with nkfry, that it boils down to simply removing two bolts holding the pump to the side of the head. The massive problem is access to the lower bolt and the little bracket that it is attached to.

I did this replacement today and it was a total pain in my a**. In retrospect, I would have removed the the hard coolant line from the turbo that connects into a tee with the coolant reservoir and the thermostat housing. With that hard line removed, the access to the lower pump bolt and the bolt to the bracket on the coolant line would make this a snap.

Unfortunately, I wasn't inclined to remove it and therefore spent quite a bit of time trying to get the bracket back in place. Lets say it wasn't fun.

 

More info here on the location and connections. N14 Engine pump

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-location.html


You can see in here there is two bolts and how it mounts. There is no factory part # for the seal for the actual vacuum pump housing ( two halves ). But there is for the Housing to cylinder head connection. 11667566483 part #

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...reasons-s.html

 

Hello all,

I'm helping a friend out with her 2010 mini cooper that's leaking from the vacuum pump. Seems straight forward enough, i can get the o-ring from Mini and pull the pump and replace it. a couple of questions: i've read some posts that indicate this hasn't solved their problem ( pump is leaking from somewhere else ) and there is a bit of oil on the pump up from the pump/block mounting. I've also read the pump can fail catastrophically, shearing off the camwheel bolt - is it best just to go ahead and replace the pump on a car with 35,000 miles?

Thanks,
Ken

 

Just replaced the o-ring, easy job on R12 motor - just need to clip the loom retainer so you can get the pump out. Looks to have solved the problem - $8.00 versus the $4K the dealer quoted..... wanted to replace the wiring harness, O2 sensor, and the thermostat - because they were oily! and the thermostat wasn't even affected! Universal City Mini - time to start writing reviews.....

 

My vacuum pump is now throwing oil all over the place.
The local mechanic says the pump is fine, but the inner o-ring ( not the seal between head and pump ) is shot.

Mini/BMW doesn't sell the inner o-ring ( silicone ) but do sell the entire vacuum pump.

Options ?
it's a $10 o-ring versus $600 at BMW.

HELP

 

If its shot, get one from HERE. It'll save you hundreds

 

Thanks for the advice.

I ordered one today :
$ 191.80 includes Next Day AM shipping

Mini Dealer was $ 501.20

Same part #. So I am hoping it works.