R56 07 S burned 1 quart of oil in 2k miles
#51
The correct mobil 1 is 0w-40. Just make sure the oil you choose matches the specs to the MINI Castrol specs.
Even though BMW/MINI has high change intervals part of matches to the design, (Oil changes does not equal never adding oil between changes) AND it is 1. expensive in Europe for oil and disposal of oil.
This will be good training for you since Ford has now added the direct injection powerplant to their cars. :-)
Even though BMW/MINI has high change intervals part of matches to the design, (Oil changes does not equal never adding oil between changes) AND it is 1. expensive in Europe for oil and disposal of oil.
This will be good training for you since Ford has now added the direct injection powerplant to their cars. :-)
#52
There are a lot of opinions and experiences on this site about using oil. My experiences with my 08 MCS (about 2-1/2 years, now 87k miles on it) are:
1. I would go through about 1/2 quart of oil every week (300 miles/week) when I first got it. It would consistently be at midway between the upper and lower bulbs, I would check and add every weekend.
2. I had read that someone had learned that they used less oil if they didn't fill the crankcase to the top of the dipstick. This worked for me. I now put 4 quarts in with every oil change, which leaves the oil at about midway between the two bulbs on the dipstick. I now add 1/2 quart when the oil gets to the lower bulb. Oil usage dropped to about 1 quart every 1000 miles with this trick.
3. I replaced the valve cover. It had several minor oil leaks, plus I had read that the PCV system was updated on the VC. This dropped oil usage further.
4. I finally fixed the oil leak at the oil filter housing-to-block. The molded gasket had actually split. With the leak fixed, I now go through about 1.5 quarts between a 5000 mile oil change.
The previous owner of this car followed the recommended oil change schedule (3 oil changes in 49k). I run an OCC with the passenger side port blocked.
Your car is old enough that I would not be suprised if some of the usage was leaking. Look at the front of the engine block, if you see some oil above the downpipe, that is likely from the oil filter housing.
I don't know if this helps, but just sharing my experiences.
Have fun,
Mike
1. I would go through about 1/2 quart of oil every week (300 miles/week) when I first got it. It would consistently be at midway between the upper and lower bulbs, I would check and add every weekend.
2. I had read that someone had learned that they used less oil if they didn't fill the crankcase to the top of the dipstick. This worked for me. I now put 4 quarts in with every oil change, which leaves the oil at about midway between the two bulbs on the dipstick. I now add 1/2 quart when the oil gets to the lower bulb. Oil usage dropped to about 1 quart every 1000 miles with this trick.
3. I replaced the valve cover. It had several minor oil leaks, plus I had read that the PCV system was updated on the VC. This dropped oil usage further.
4. I finally fixed the oil leak at the oil filter housing-to-block. The molded gasket had actually split. With the leak fixed, I now go through about 1.5 quarts between a 5000 mile oil change.
The previous owner of this car followed the recommended oil change schedule (3 oil changes in 49k). I run an OCC with the passenger side port blocked.
Your car is old enough that I would not be suprised if some of the usage was leaking. Look at the front of the engine block, if you see some oil above the downpipe, that is likely from the oil filter housing.
I don't know if this helps, but just sharing my experiences.
Have fun,
Mike
#53
I was at the dealer on Thursday after getting my clutch and brake system flushed and bled, service tech told me there are a few things that need attention. He said I'm do for oil change, funny because I have owned the MCS for a year now and have changed oil twice in 6,000 miles. He even told me I needed to have the service reset, hell I can do that myself! Then he stated I needed a new air filter changed, told him I ordered a K&N filter for it. My local dealer isn't draining my wallet, I can do that on my own!
#54
There are a lot of opinions and experiences on this site about using oil. My experiences with my 08 MCS (about 2-1/2 years, now 87k miles on it) are:
1. I would go through about 1/2 quart of oil every week (300 miles/week) when I first got it. It would consistently be at midway between the upper and lower bulbs, I would check and add every weekend.
2. I had read that someone had learned that they used less oil if they didn't fill the crankcase to the top of the dipstick. This worked for me. I now put 4 quarts in with every oil change, which leaves the oil at about midway between the two bulbs on the dipstick. I now add 1/2 quart when the oil gets to the lower bulb. Oil usage dropped to about 1 quart every 1000 miles with this trick.
3. I replaced the valve cover. It had several minor oil leaks, plus I had read that the PCV system was updated on the VC. This dropped oil usage further.
4. I finally fixed the oil leak at the oil filter housing-to-block. The molded gasket had actually split. With the leak fixed, I now go through about 1.5 quarts between a 5000 mile oil change.
The previous owner of this car followed the recommended oil change schedule (3 oil changes in 49k). I run an OCC with the passenger side port blocked.
Your car is old enough that I would not be suprised if some of the usage was leaking. Look at the front of the engine block, if you see some oil above the downpipe, that is likely from the oil filter housing.
I don't know if this helps, but just sharing my experiences.
Have fun,
Mike
1. I would go through about 1/2 quart of oil every week (300 miles/week) when I first got it. It would consistently be at midway between the upper and lower bulbs, I would check and add every weekend.
2. I had read that someone had learned that they used less oil if they didn't fill the crankcase to the top of the dipstick. This worked for me. I now put 4 quarts in with every oil change, which leaves the oil at about midway between the two bulbs on the dipstick. I now add 1/2 quart when the oil gets to the lower bulb. Oil usage dropped to about 1 quart every 1000 miles with this trick.
3. I replaced the valve cover. It had several minor oil leaks, plus I had read that the PCV system was updated on the VC. This dropped oil usage further.
4. I finally fixed the oil leak at the oil filter housing-to-block. The molded gasket had actually split. With the leak fixed, I now go through about 1.5 quarts between a 5000 mile oil change.
The previous owner of this car followed the recommended oil change schedule (3 oil changes in 49k). I run an OCC with the passenger side port blocked.
Your car is old enough that I would not be suprised if some of the usage was leaking. Look at the front of the engine block, if you see some oil above the downpipe, that is likely from the oil filter housing.
I don't know if this helps, but just sharing my experiences.
Have fun,
Mike
The correct mobil 1 is 0w-40. Just make sure the oil you choose matches the specs to the MINI Castrol specs.
Even though BMW/MINI has high change intervals part of matches to the design, (Oil changes does not equal never adding oil between changes) AND it is 1. expensive in Europe for oil and disposal of oil.
This will be good training for you since Ford has now added the direct injection powerplant to their cars. :-)
Even though BMW/MINI has high change intervals part of matches to the design, (Oil changes does not equal never adding oil between changes) AND it is 1. expensive in Europe for oil and disposal of oil.
This will be good training for you since Ford has now added the direct injection powerplant to their cars. :-)
I have yet to see or hear about a customer complaining about oil usage on a direct injection engine. The most notable complaint I've noticed is the new Focus' "automatic" double clutch transmission isn't the best.
To the 0w40 comment -- I live in SC (I see you live in Ohio) with relatively high temps so the low temperature benefit doesn't really appeal to me. If this will help with the annoying oil consumption then I'm on board.
I've been keeping my oil level at about 3/4 of the way to the top filled. I've already checked for oil leaks and there are none at all on mine. I don't have a catch can and have changed it three times in the 9 or 10k miles I've owned the car. It worries me because the carbon could be accumulating inside the turbo and cause it to overheat. I'm not down for buying a new turbo after (not even) 70k miles.
I'm going to look further into the catch can and inspect further for oil leaks.
Other than consuming oil and my own mistakes, this car has been pretty awesome about reliability and mechanical troubles. This just scares me.
#55
It's frequently discussed that our cars "burn" or use oil, and most contribute it to the car itself. I haven't seen much discussion about the type of oil used and their actual results on the NOACK Volatility Test.
For those that are not aware, the NOACK Volatility Test determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high temperature service, which are Minis notably reside. If an oil performs poorly on the NOACK test then would not our cars use more or less oil depending on the type of oil we use? For example, Valvoline has a reported result of approximately 12% weight loss, Castro or Mini oil (I believe) has almost an 8% weight loss, Valvoline Syn Power has a 7.03% weight loss and Amsoil has less than 5% weight loss…depending on the grade of oil. According to specs, there is a 15% evaporation loss that is allowable to meet API and ILSAC requirements which obviously gives ALOT of leeway for oil producers to play with….and MAY be a culprit in our oil consumption.
For those that are not aware, the NOACK Volatility Test determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high temperature service, which are Minis notably reside. If an oil performs poorly on the NOACK test then would not our cars use more or less oil depending on the type of oil we use? For example, Valvoline has a reported result of approximately 12% weight loss, Castro or Mini oil (I believe) has almost an 8% weight loss, Valvoline Syn Power has a 7.03% weight loss and Amsoil has less than 5% weight loss…depending on the grade of oil. According to specs, there is a 15% evaporation loss that is allowable to meet API and ILSAC requirements which obviously gives ALOT of leeway for oil producers to play with….and MAY be a culprit in our oil consumption.
#56
It's frequently discussed that our cars "burn" or use oil, and most contribute it to the car itself. I haven't seen much discussion about the type of oil used and their actual results on the NOACK Volatility Test.
For those that are not aware, the NOACK Volatility Test determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high temperature service, which are Minis notably reside. If an oil performs poorly on the NOACK test then would not our cars use more or less oil depending on the type of oil we use? For example, Valvoline has a reported result of approximately 12% weight loss, Castro or Mini oil (I believe) has almost an 8% weight loss, Valvoline Syn Power has a 7.03% weight loss and Amsoil has less than 5% weight loss…depending on the grade of oil. According to specs, there is a 15% evaporation loss that is allowable to meet API and ILSAC requirements which obviously gives ALOT of leeway for oil producers to play with….and MAY be a culprit in our oil consumption.
For those that are not aware, the NOACK Volatility Test determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high temperature service, which are Minis notably reside. If an oil performs poorly on the NOACK test then would not our cars use more or less oil depending on the type of oil we use? For example, Valvoline has a reported result of approximately 12% weight loss, Castro or Mini oil (I believe) has almost an 8% weight loss, Valvoline Syn Power has a 7.03% weight loss and Amsoil has less than 5% weight loss…depending on the grade of oil. According to specs, there is a 15% evaporation loss that is allowable to meet API and ILSAC requirements which obviously gives ALOT of leeway for oil producers to play with….and MAY be a culprit in our oil consumption.
#57
I think I've solved my oil usage problem
My wife has a 2007 MCS that she bought new. For as long as I can remember it has consumed oil; at least 1Qt every 1000 miles. To me that is crazy.
When it has been using oil, it would always have a little oil around the valve cover bolts. Not enough to explain the usage (IMHO) but maybe a clue. I then read somewhere (can't remember where) about the PCV valve having issues. The end result was higher oil consumption. The PCV valve is not a separate part but imbedded in the valve cover. Had the valve cover replaced (and a new gasket) and for the last month the oil level hasn't changed so that it is noticeable. In the past, a month would have meant adding about 1.5Qt. Also, no oil around the bolts, clean as a whistle.
So, I believe the PCV was probably the bad actor right from the start.
To me it is amazing that Mini either hasn't identified this problem or refuses to admit it (for fear of having to pay for it).
When it has been using oil, it would always have a little oil around the valve cover bolts. Not enough to explain the usage (IMHO) but maybe a clue. I then read somewhere (can't remember where) about the PCV valve having issues. The end result was higher oil consumption. The PCV valve is not a separate part but imbedded in the valve cover. Had the valve cover replaced (and a new gasket) and for the last month the oil level hasn't changed so that it is noticeable. In the past, a month would have meant adding about 1.5Qt. Also, no oil around the bolts, clean as a whistle.
So, I believe the PCV was probably the bad actor right from the start.
To me it is amazing that Mini either hasn't identified this problem or refuses to admit it (for fear of having to pay for it).
#58
Mobil 1 seems to be a popular choice of oil for our Minis. It has a NOACK score of a little over 9. If anyone is having oil loss, then a oil with a lower NOACK rating may help, and of course making sure that our valve covers are changed on the N14 engines. Happy motoring!
#60
I broke mine in hard, did the first oil change at 1K and I don't use any oil, only lose 1/8 qt in 3K miles.
If the rings never seated there is little that can be done now.
FYI being a sport bike guy I did alot of research on oil. Mobil did some changes a while back and white paper report showed it's near the bottom and I stopped using it. Amsoil is the best, I use MINI oil which is castrol edge.
#61
#62
#64
^ that doesn't mean that, by design, it consumes oil. it's not an rx7.
By design, it shouldn't consume oil. And like I said, manufacturer provisions are there to cover their asses. I bet most performance car manufacturers have a provision for oil consumption, just in case. For the turbo Minis, it's probably got a lot to do with owners letting carbon build up causing issues/wear/damage, I don't know. One of these days you guys with significant oil consumption should tear down the engine and see exactly what the issue is.
By design, it shouldn't consume oil. And like I said, manufacturer provisions are there to cover their asses. I bet most performance car manufacturers have a provision for oil consumption, just in case. For the turbo Minis, it's probably got a lot to do with owners letting carbon build up causing issues/wear/damage, I don't know. One of these days you guys with significant oil consumption should tear down the engine and see exactly what the issue is.
#65
BMW should have made it to where most of the oil vapors return to the oil pan instead of being thrown into the engine. I just don't see how some could have burned no oil after 5000 miles, that would mean that your PCV system doesn't draw anything from your crankcase, "because there be oil vapors in there".
#66
Part 2 of the link below is the explanation for where the oil is mysteriously going, I have posted this previously in this thread. Believe me it is not a mystery where the oil is going and how there is no signs of where it is going. We advise people on a daily basis on how to prevent this issue or fix it after if has already happened, it is a little hard to understand so I understand the debate around the NOACK rating of oil. We have seen several cars with this issue and have no signs of oil smoke in the exhaust even with a cracked pistons or burned valves.
http://www.jmturbocoopers.com/Cooper...ton-Issue.html
http://www.jmturbocoopers.com/Cooper...ton-Issue.html
#67
I am in this boat. I have an 07 MCS with about 69k miles, but I bought it at around 64k miles. I went to check the dipstick months ago and thought I couldnt read the dipstick very well as I couldnt determine the oil level. I decided to add some oil, and found that the entire stick was basically dry. It took 2 full quarts to get back up to the full marker.
About a month or two after that the oil line was back to the low marker. I added a full quart to get it about topped off, and a month later I am about back to the low marker. I see a drip or two of oil on my garage floor but nothing to account for the amount that is missing. When it was in the shop for some recall work, they didnt mention anything about leaks.
About a month or two after that the oil line was back to the low marker. I added a full quart to get it about topped off, and a month later I am about back to the low marker. I see a drip or two of oil on my garage floor but nothing to account for the amount that is missing. When it was in the shop for some recall work, they didnt mention anything about leaks.
#68
I am in this boat. I have an 07 MCS with about 69k miles, but I bought it at around 64k miles. I went to check the dipstick months ago and thought I couldnt read the dipstick very well as I couldnt determine the oil level. I decided to add some oil, and found that the entire stick was basically dry. It took 2 full quarts to get back up to the full marker.
About a month or two after that the oil line was back to the low marker. I added a full quart to get it about topped off, and a month later I am about back to the low marker. I see a drip or two of oil on my garage floor but nothing to account for the amount that is missing. When it was in the shop for some recall work, they didnt mention anything about leaks.
About a month or two after that the oil line was back to the low marker. I added a full quart to get it about topped off, and a month later I am about back to the low marker. I see a drip or two of oil on my garage floor but nothing to account for the amount that is missing. When it was in the shop for some recall work, they didnt mention anything about leaks.
#69
I am in this boat. I have an 07 MCS with about 69k miles, but I bought it at around 64k miles. I went to check the dipstick months ago and thought I couldnt read the dipstick very well as I couldnt determine the oil level. I decided to add some oil, and found that the entire stick was basically dry. It took 2 full quarts to get back up to the full marker.
About a month or two after that the oil line was back to the low marker. I added a full quart to get it about topped off, and a month later I am about back to the low marker. I see a drip or two of oil on my garage floor but nothing to account for the amount that is missing. When it was in the shop for some recall work, they didnt mention anything about leaks.
About a month or two after that the oil line was back to the low marker. I added a full quart to get it about topped off, and a month later I am about back to the low marker. I see a drip or two of oil on my garage floor but nothing to account for the amount that is missing. When it was in the shop for some recall work, they didnt mention anything about leaks.
You might want to change the turbo and catalytic converter, if not you risk engine damage.
Last edited by JM Turbo Coopers; 04-14-2014 at 09:12 PM.
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