Look up 'Free Camber Mod' as well. Basically, there are plastic pins that limit the travel in the front strut towers. Remove these pins and add a bit more camber, costs you an alignment (unless you can adjust toe yourself).

Then drive the car for a while and see what you want to improve. The stage 1 on my Accessport makes a noticable difference.

Mike

 

I guess we need to ask the OP what he means by minor? Is he talking about cost, ease of mod, etc.

 

OP gave an example of a $60, easy to install modification that allegedly improves torque steer and shifting crispness.

OP is looking for more like that. OP is not looking for "you oughta put a $1800 exhaust on that car and get an additional 3.5 HP."

 

just ordered the BMS Clutch Stop, cant wait to try it out !!!

 

You should've bought the MINI I have for sale haha! Another mod that is very much worth the cost is a rear sway bar upgrade. $200-$300, but the price pales in comparison to the handling gain you receive. And they're easy to install!

Ditch the run flats once it comes time to change the tires. You'll thank me when you do.

 

I may ditch the runflats even before it's time to change the tires. I already have a set of truck tires. They're on my truck.

What price should I ask for a set of Kumho Ecsta runflats in 205/45/17 with about 8K miles?

 

[QUOTE]I just checked the mini part numbers. Not only is it the same for JCW and S, the part number is shared by all coopers 2008-2012. (2007 in some applications such as justas and 07 JCW). All motor mounts are shared based on engine block, without regard to torque output.

So, yes. It will indeed help./QUOTE]


Thanks another mod to add to the long list!!!

 

Will the clutch stop be helpful on a 2007 justa? The bms site doesn't specify.

 

I just jumped on the train also......clutch stop on the way. can't go wrong with a $10 mod! Free shipping to Alaska also.

I just got an email from Way and his reply on wether the torque arm bushings are beneficial to a 13 JCW

"Oh yeah it really benefits, the 07 and 13 have different ones. Here is a link for the correct one for you"

 

Went ahead and ordered the following:

• Torque arm bushings
• Clutch pedal stop
• Fancy dipstick from Cravenspeed
• Shorty antenna also from Cravenspeed

The rubber on the base of my antenna is torn all up. Dipstick was fine however the new one is cool and apparently won't break.

 

I'm also interested in the torque arm, mainly to improve shift feel, may also do the short shift kit.

My question is regarding NVH side effects. I saw a few of these used (don't recall brand) for sale while back with main reason being unreasonable engine NVH. Is this isolated to a certain brand? I know on the OEM side it takes a lot of effort to tune NVH and I'd hate to mess that up.

in line with question above anyone tried polyurethane bushings for NVH degradation? like from these guys http://powerflexusa.com/minicooper07.aspx. I noticed during a tire rotation last week that when the tech torqued the studs to spec the front wheels moved slightly forward, not the kind of play that would require bushing replacement but it showed how much the suspension can move under load. I'm thinking the poly bushings may help?

 

Can you tell me where you got the Accessport for your Mini? I don't see it being listed as available for the Mini on cobbtuning.com. Thanks!

 

Can anybody give a comparison between the Power Flex Torque Arm bushing and the NM Torque Arm bushing?

How many of you noticed more vibration (dash) in the cabin after installing either brand Torque Arm bushing?

Feedback appreciated!

 

I have the NM big bushing and the powerflex on the small side. I noticed a bigger difference after installing the powerflex bushing. Although installing the small side bushing only added to the effectiveness of the NM insert. I had been using the nm for about a year before installing the powerflex piece. If I did it again I would use the powerflex black series bushing on the large side and the street bushing on the small side. BSH also makes a complete replacement mount but if you're worried about NVH you may not want to go that route as people have said there is more NVH with this mount than when using the inserts. Although, I may try the BSH torque arm as I'm not really worried about NVH, I had an 88 Mazda 323 GTX that I filled all the motor mounts with 90 durometer urethane and there was a lot of NVH but I wanted the mounts really solid.

 

Yes the Lower engine mount is the same R56 R55 R57 , R58 & r59. From the factory R56 2007s and some R56 2008 model had the little triangular mount ( if it was not replaced with the newer design which is current ). Its old part numbers were: 22114052474 & 22116772040 .

So its good to check that out to match, or you can replace it with the newer design and then the round insert / bushings.

Lower Engine Mount / Rubber Part # 22116783094

p://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES41748__ES2009356/



Then there is the poly insert we carry from Powerflex

Performance or Race Polyurethane Engine Support Bushing - Large ( Insert ) ( For the big rubber section )

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/PFF5-207/





&

Performance or Race Polyurethane Engine Support Bushing - Small ( For the smaller rubber section )

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/PFF5-206/




Which completes the lower engine mount.

Thanks and hope that helps.

 

What's the difference between the two lower engine mounts you list? I'm going to go ahead and order a new one with the power flex inserts. With the miles on my car it's probably the best/easiest thing to do. I don't feel like freezing my butt off checking to see which type I have and can just swap the whole thing out on my next oil change.

 

Yea , its very cold outside here in the North.

22114052474 & 22116772040 Is the early style mount that is triangular and the rubber shapes are different. It was superseded to MINI part # 22116783094. You cant get the old style anymore ~474 & ~040. So most people just change the mount out and go with the matching powerflex bushings.

22116783094 Which is the round style above can be used to replace the old style then you can insert the powerflex bushings that are listed above.

Best to just swap it out all together on the next change.

 

Thanks for the info. Just ordered both parts.

 

I got my accessport when they were still available new. Now you need to find them used, there is usually one or two on the marketplace. Expect to spend between $500-$600.

My car is an auto, and I tried the yellow powerflex bushings just after I got the car. There was a significant vibration at idle. I drove it for about 1500 miles then pulled them out.

Last year I picked up a set of used NM bushings. On my car, these have less vibration, and I continue to use them today.

After reading up on things here for a while, it seems like the auto is more sensitive to vibration than manual shift cars. It also seems like there are some cars that vibrate quite a bit, and others that don't. Or maybe it is just that some people are more sensitive than others with this type of stuff.

Have fun,
Mike

 

ECS Tuning,

Thanks for your post with part numbers and photos. Makes understanding the discussion of the motor mount much, much more clear.

 

I was scratching my head wondering why I couldn't find it listed new. Then I found the thread for it which stated that it was discontinued. Thanks

 

You are welcome.

 

Is it pretty easy to punch out the small end of the lower motor mount stock rubber insert to install the NM or PF smaller bushing? Hope it's not pressure fit.

 

Yes, same advantage. Makes switching gear a more precise and controllable task.

 

I used the PowerFlex large and small bushings about a month ago, what a difference it makes. I went with the street bushings and am very satisfied.