R56 Replaced Thermostat and Bled. Still overheating?
#1
Replaced Thermostat and Bled. Still overheating?
I had a coolant leak on my 09 MCS. The shop said it was coming from the thermostat and wanted $600 to fix. I wasn't paying that and just bought the part. This weekend I just installed a new thermostat housing/thermostat on my 09 MCS. I bled the coolant system using the instructions I found on the forum (below).
After the fix, I took the car for a cruise to see if everything is working okay. The cars coolant warning light came on. I went back and bled the system again. The heat is not getting warm, so I assume there is still air in the coolant. When I bled it was for about 5 minutes and I could see a pretty constant coolant stream.
How could I get more air out of the coolant system? I don't really want to take it to the shop to have them bleed it.
After the fix, I took the car for a cruise to see if everything is working okay. The cars coolant warning light came on. I went back and bled the system again. The heat is not getting warm, so I assume there is still air in the coolant. When I bled it was for about 5 minutes and I could see a pretty constant coolant stream.
How could I get more air out of the coolant system? I don't really want to take it to the shop to have them bleed it.
Filling and bleeding cooling system:
Before filling radiator.
Turn ignition ON, do NOT start engine.
Set heater control to maximum temperature.
Set fan to low setting.
Set seat heater control to max.
Pour in coolant slowly. - Observe filling capacities and mixture ratio.
The cooling system is vented during filling.
Release vent screw located on thermostat housing.
Pour in MINI coolant through expansion tank filler neck until bubble-free coolant emerges at vent screw.
Close vent screw. Tightening torque 2 Nm (1.4 ft-lb)
Continue topping up coolant in expansion tank to maximum level.
Start engine and run at idle speed for one minute. Close cap.
If the level drops, top up coolant until the level no longer drops.
Run engine until it reaches operating temperature.
After engine has cooled, recheck coolant level.
Top up coolant to max. level.
Check cooling system for leaks
Before filling radiator.
Turn ignition ON, do NOT start engine.
Set heater control to maximum temperature.
Set fan to low setting.
Set seat heater control to max.
Pour in coolant slowly. - Observe filling capacities and mixture ratio.
The cooling system is vented during filling.
Release vent screw located on thermostat housing.
Pour in MINI coolant through expansion tank filler neck until bubble-free coolant emerges at vent screw.
Close vent screw. Tightening torque 2 Nm (1.4 ft-lb)
Continue topping up coolant in expansion tank to maximum level.
Start engine and run at idle speed for one minute. Close cap.
If the level drops, top up coolant until the level no longer drops.
Run engine until it reaches operating temperature.
After engine has cooled, recheck coolant level.
Top up coolant to max. level.
Check cooling system for leaks
#2
#3
My mechanic confirms that Mini's can be tough to bleed. You might try putting the front end up on ramps or on an incline in your driveway, and repeat the process. Be sure to have the temp control on MAX hot Auto to get the flow through the heater core.
No hoses pinched at the thermostat, right? Oh, and does your model have an auxiliary water pump on the drivers side?
No hoses pinched at the thermostat, right? Oh, and does your model have an auxiliary water pump on the drivers side?
#4
Check the water pump on the other side for leaks, once pressurized some people found there was a leak on the water pump side also. Also, check for leaks under the expansion tank, they can have hairlines cracks at the base.
Coolant Expansion Tank
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/17137823626/
Good to inspect. Takes a couple times to top off and get all the air out. Take a little led light and point it at the vent screw to see the fluid come out with the bubbles. The screw has to be almost backed out all the way it seams to bleed, at least when i did it, but watch so it does not come off so you don't lose it.
Good luck and I hope you can get it resolved.
Coolant Expansion Tank
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/17137823626/
Good to inspect. Takes a couple times to top off and get all the air out. Take a little led light and point it at the vent screw to see the fluid come out with the bubbles. The screw has to be almost backed out all the way it seams to bleed, at least when i did it, but watch so it does not come off so you don't lose it.
Good luck and I hope you can get it resolved.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; 02-03-2014 at 11:41 AM.
#5
Being in San Fran, you should be able to find a good hill to park on (sorry if that's a stereotype, not trying to irritate anyone). Park with the nose up, and let the car idle a bit. Observe if the coolant level in the expansion tank drops significantly. Let the car cool down and add coolant.
If you can't find a leak at the waterpump, the thermostat, or the coolant tank, it still may be trapped air. If the expansion tank runs low, it will likely suck air back into the system and you will need to re-bleed after filling the tank.
Good luck, you will get it.
Mike
If you can't find a leak at the waterpump, the thermostat, or the coolant tank, it still may be trapped air. If the expansion tank runs low, it will likely suck air back into the system and you will need to re-bleed after filling the tank.
Good luck, you will get it.
Mike
#6
Your water pump could also be toast. Check the waterpump weep hole to see if coolant is coming out. If that looks good you probably still have air in the system. Supposedly the mini coolant system is a pain to bleed so the dealerships use vacuum bleeders and it still takes a while.
My mechanic confirms that Mini's can be tough to bleed. You might try putting the front end up on ramps or on an incline in your driveway, and repeat the process. Be sure to have the temp control on MAX hot Auto to get the flow through the heater core.
When I drove the car I was going up the San Francisco hills. I didn't see a drop in coolant, I saw a rise because the car was getting hot. This makes me think air.
No hoses pinched at the thermostat, right? Oh, and does your model have an auxiliary water pump on the drivers side?
When I drove the car I was going up the San Francisco hills. I didn't see a drop in coolant, I saw a rise because the car was getting hot. This makes me think air.
No hoses pinched at the thermostat, right? Oh, and does your model have an auxiliary water pump on the drivers side?
Check the water pump on the other side for leaks, once pressurized some people found there was a leak on the water pump side also. Also, check for leaks under the expansion tank, they can have hairlines cracks at the base. Good to inspect. Takes a couple times to top off and get all the air out. Take a little led light and point it at the vent screw to see the fluid come out with the bubbles. The screw has to be almost backed out all the way it seams to bleed, at least when i did it, but watch so it does not come off so you don't lose it.
Good luck and I hope you can get it resolved.
Good luck and I hope you can get it resolved.
Being in San Fran, you should be able to find a good hill to park on (sorry if that's a stereotype, not trying to irritate anyone). Park with the nose up, and let the car idle a bit. Observe if the coolant level in the expansion tank drops significantly. Let the car cool down and add coolant.
If you can't find a leak at the waterpump, the thermostat, or the coolant tank, it still may be trapped air. If the expansion tank runs low, it will likely suck air back into the system and you will need to re-bleed after filling the tank.
Good luck, you will get it.
Mike
If you can't find a leak at the waterpump, the thermostat, or the coolant tank, it still may be trapped air. If the expansion tank runs low, it will likely suck air back into the system and you will need to re-bleed after filling the tank.
Good luck, you will get it.
Mike
#7
Additional Water Pump - aux water pump
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537630368/
"
Here is a link to my thread with the Coolant / Thermostat housing / Waterpump check list and then link to the how to.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-no-heat.html
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; 02-03-2014 at 11:39 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
"That's the auxiliary water pump that is located in front of the transmission. The main water pump is on the passenger side near that back of the engine. "
Additional Water Pump - aux water pump
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537630368/
"
"Ok, I was talking about when you fill the tank and bleed the air out to make sure the screw is almost all the way out so the sir comes out good. Give it another try and bleed again. "
"Yea in SF you should be able to find a hill. "
Here is a link to my thread with the Coolant / Thermostat housing / Waterpump check list and then link to the how to.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-no-heat.html
Additional Water Pump - aux water pump
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537630368/
"
"Ok, I was talking about when you fill the tank and bleed the air out to make sure the screw is almost all the way out so the sir comes out good. Give it another try and bleed again. "
"Yea in SF you should be able to find a hill. "
Here is a link to my thread with the Coolant / Thermostat housing / Waterpump check list and then link to the how to.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-no-heat.html
I was already worried about that.
#10
#11
Update: I bled the system twice (5 min each) tonight with no luck. I could clearly see coolant flowing out. I sadly believe it is still air-locked. I am assuming there is air still in the system because the heater on high still does not get warm (blows coolish air). I made an appointment with the Mini shop to get them to bleed it. I am pretty sure the guy said they use a pressure tool or something. I will call to clarify tomorrow morning. To add to my theory, when I drove it around the block (slowly), I could see the water temp on my scangauge ii go up to 230F then back down to 215F.
#12
#14
#15
Update #2: The shop could fit me in today. They were going to drain the whole system and use a tool to suck the coolant through the whole system to remove any air.
The owner of the shop just called me to let me know that it is still over heating. He said there just is no flow in the coolant system. He believes that the thermostat is not opening and could be defective or it could be that the water pump fin/propeller broke off. The shop guy that it is at now looked at all the hoses and connectors any everything is correctly hooked up.
I bought the thermostat from the Mini dealership parts counter brand new (sealed box). Again, they wanted $600. I bought the part and I did the repair pretty easily last weekend (2 hour job). The car was running fine before I took it to the Mini dealership to get recall stuff fixed last week. It was just leaking a little coolant and I would just add more water/coolant for a temporary fix while getting to work. After the dealership it was running really hot (getting warnings). I figured it was just low of coolant and filled it up. It was still running hot and I just got it towed home covered under my insurance. I have been worried about the head gasket and warping the head. The temp before the dealer would sit around 220F and 225F at the highest. Hopefully something gets figured out.
EDIT: The dealership forgot to take the friction wheel out of maintenance mode. There is a spring that holds the water pump back from the belt.
http://parts.miniofsouthatlanta.com/...roduct=1271958
The owner of the shop just called me to let me know that it is still over heating. He said there just is no flow in the coolant system. He believes that the thermostat is not opening and could be defective or it could be that the water pump fin/propeller broke off. The shop guy that it is at now looked at all the hoses and connectors any everything is correctly hooked up.
I bought the thermostat from the Mini dealership parts counter brand new (sealed box). Again, they wanted $600. I bought the part and I did the repair pretty easily last weekend (2 hour job). The car was running fine before I took it to the Mini dealership to get recall stuff fixed last week. It was just leaking a little coolant and I would just add more water/coolant for a temporary fix while getting to work. After the dealership it was running really hot (getting warnings). I figured it was just low of coolant and filled it up. It was still running hot and I just got it towed home covered under my insurance. I have been worried about the head gasket and warping the head. The temp before the dealer would sit around 220F and 225F at the highest. Hopefully something gets figured out.
EDIT: The dealership forgot to take the friction wheel out of maintenance mode. There is a spring that holds the water pump back from the belt.
http://parts.miniofsouthatlanta.com/...roduct=1271958
Last edited by dnelson; 02-04-2014 at 05:41 PM.
#18
#19
I just had my thermostat replaced, it was running at 104deg Celsius prior, but after is running at 108.
I'm going to try and bleed the system, just wanted to know if the car should be ur. Ing when I bleed it, and how long do I leave the screw open and have the coolant run out?
Thanks
Dane (in Australia)
I'm going to try and bleed the system, just wanted to know if the car should be ur. Ing when I bleed it, and how long do I leave the screw open and have the coolant run out?
Thanks
Dane (in Australia)
#20
#21
Wow,
Great you figured it out. Would have thought it would have been done right. The friction wheel when you pull the little tab drops the bottom position of the wheel for installing a water pump or changing a belt. That tab has to be pushed all the way back in like in the photo.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11287598833/
Great you figured it out. Would have thought it would have been done right. The friction wheel when you pull the little tab drops the bottom position of the wheel for installing a water pump or changing a belt. That tab has to be pushed all the way back in like in the photo.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11287598833/
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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