R56 Hotchkis Rear Swaybar Noise
#1
#5
Yea the bushings are greased, it makes a noise only on small bumps. If they're is supposed to be a little bit of clearance between the bushing and the body then something is wrong. There is barely any/no clearance between them. Everything is tight, didn't have torque specs but all is 100% tight.
#7
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#12
The rubber should envelope the sway bar, and both held tightly to the subframe by the mount.
But just to 3x check, undo the sway bar links at both wheels and move it around. It should rotate with some resistance, but w/out any noise or play.
Assuming you didn't lower the car or introduce any other variables into the picture during the rear sway bar job, possible noise sources could be:
1). Check that the sway bar is centrally positioned and sway bar links are not hitting other suspension elements. Look from the back and confirm that both sway bar links drop straight down, not sideways.
2). Check that the sub-frame bolts are all tight.
3). Check that the shock is bolted back on tight (you must have removed at least one to get the sway bar in there).
4). Check that the sway bar links themselves are installed correctly, and not clunking/falling-apart due to wear and tear. How many miles on the suspension?
a
#13
#14
I was also thinking about making sure that the bar is centered. See if you are having the interference on both sides or just one. If it is just one, maybe you can loosen the subframe and center it to eliminate the interference.
The other thing is that I don't remember if the swaybar mounts have slots or holes in them. If they are slotted, maybe you can loosen the mounts and shift them away from your interference.
The outside of the bushings and mounts are standard, there are lots and lots of people who have done this without interference. You are probably just off a hair in a couple of areas. I'm sure that you can loosen either the brackets or subframe (or both) and pry them to eliminate the interference.
Have fun,
Mike
The other thing is that I don't remember if the swaybar mounts have slots or holes in them. If they are slotted, maybe you can loosen the mounts and shift them away from your interference.
The outside of the bushings and mounts are standard, there are lots and lots of people who have done this without interference. You are probably just off a hair in a couple of areas. I'm sure that you can loosen either the brackets or subframe (or both) and pry them to eliminate the interference.
Have fun,
Mike
#15
There is nothing obviously wrong with your sway bar mount.
The rubber should envelope the sway bar, and both held tightly to the subframe by the mount.
But just to 3x check, undo the sway bar links at both wheels and move it around. It should rotate with some resistance, but w/out any noise or play.
Assuming you didn't lower the car or introduce any other variables into the picture during the rear sway bar job, possible noise sources could be:
1). Check that the sway bar is centrally positioned and sway bar links are not hitting other suspension elements. Look from the back and confirm that both sway bar links drop straight down, not sideways.
2). Check that the sub-frame bolts are all tight.
3). Check that the shock is bolted back on tight (you must have removed at least one to get the sway bar in there).
4). Check that the sway bar links themselves are installed correctly, and not clunking/falling-apart due to wear and tear. How many miles on the suspension?
a
The rubber should envelope the sway bar, and both held tightly to the subframe by the mount.
But just to 3x check, undo the sway bar links at both wheels and move it around. It should rotate with some resistance, but w/out any noise or play.
Assuming you didn't lower the car or introduce any other variables into the picture during the rear sway bar job, possible noise sources could be:
1). Check that the sway bar is centrally positioned and sway bar links are not hitting other suspension elements. Look from the back and confirm that both sway bar links drop straight down, not sideways.
2). Check that the sub-frame bolts are all tight.
3). Check that the shock is bolted back on tight (you must have removed at least one to get the sway bar in there).
4). Check that the sway bar links themselves are installed correctly, and not clunking/falling-apart due to wear and tear. How many miles on the suspension?
a
#16
I was also thinking about making sure that the bar is centered. See if you are having the interference on both sides or just one. If it is just one, maybe you can loosen the subframe and center it to eliminate the interference.
The other thing is that I don't remember if the swaybar mounts have slots or holes in them. If they are slotted, maybe you can loosen the mounts and shift them away from your interference.
The outside of the bushings and mounts are standard, there are lots and lots of people who have done this without interference. You are probably just off a hair in a couple of areas. I'm sure that you can loosen either the brackets or subframe (or both) and pry them to eliminate the interference.
Have fun,
Mike
The other thing is that I don't remember if the swaybar mounts have slots or holes in them. If they are slotted, maybe you can loosen the mounts and shift them away from your interference.
The outside of the bushings and mounts are standard, there are lots and lots of people who have done this without interference. You are probably just off a hair in a couple of areas. I'm sure that you can loosen either the brackets or subframe (or both) and pry them to eliminate the interference.
Have fun,
Mike
#18
Originally Posted by afadeev
There is nothing obviously wrong with your sway bar mount.
The rubber should envelope the sway bar, and both held tightly to the subframe by the mount.
But just to 3x check, undo the sway bar links at both wheels and move it around. It should rotate with some resistance, but w/out any noise or play.
Assuming you didn't lower the car or introduce any other variables into the picture during the rear sway bar job, possible noise sources could be:
1). Check that the sway bar is centrally positioned and sway bar links are not hitting other suspension elements. Look from the back and confirm that both sway bar links drop straight down, not sideways.
2). Check that the sub-frame bolts are all tight.
3). Check that the shock is bolted back on tight (you must have removed at least one to get the sway bar in there).
4). Check that the sway bar links themselves are installed correctly, and not clunking/falling-apart due to wear and tear. How many miles on the suspension?
a
The rubber should envelope the sway bar, and both held tightly to the subframe by the mount.
But just to 3x check, undo the sway bar links at both wheels and move it around. It should rotate with some resistance, but w/out any noise or play.
Assuming you didn't lower the car or introduce any other variables into the picture during the rear sway bar job, possible noise sources could be:
1). Check that the sway bar is centrally positioned and sway bar links are not hitting other suspension elements. Look from the back and confirm that both sway bar links drop straight down, not sideways.
2). Check that the sub-frame bolts are all tight.
3). Check that the shock is bolted back on tight (you must have removed at least one to get the sway bar in there).
4). Check that the sway bar links themselves are installed correctly, and not clunking/falling-apart due to wear and tear. How many miles on the suspension?
a
There is relatively little clearance for the rear sway bar links to begin with, and lowering the suspension frequently leads to end links binding. Thus the popularity of aftermarket adjustable rear sway bar links.
I know you did not have that problem before, but if you looked at the old and new sway bars side by side, you would have noticed that they have subtly differently end link attachment geometry. If you have an adjustable sway bar, you can change link attachment points to effectively stiffen the bar's effect on the suspension.
Moving that link around, when it had minimal clearance after lowering to being with, may very well have resulted in the link now hitting some element of the rear suspension. Look for wear marks and signs of metal rubbing.
a
#19
Would anyone happen to have the subframe bolt torque specs? I really cranked the bolts on, and when I loosened the bolts just a tad the bushing brackets now have some clearance from the body. There is not wear marks on the end links or any where near the end links, they were on there pretty good on the middle setting, I might try and adjusting the sway bar to the stiffer setting, which is the furthest in correct? Before the end links were not perfectly going straight up and someone mentioned they are supposed to be straight up, correct? With it on the stiffest setting the end links go straight up. I still feel it has something to do with this subframe though.
#20
This is the clearance I have with the whole subframe loose and with the brackets loose, the booklet that comes with the swaybar that tells you how to install it, they have a picture of the bracket and there is a ton more clearance than what I have. Does anyone have a swaybar installed and could possible get a picture of your clearance?
#23
#24
#25
Would anyone happen to have the subframe bolt torque specs? I really cranked the bolts on, and when I loosened the bolts just a tad the bushing brackets now have some clearance from the body. There is not wear marks on the end links or any where near the end links, they were on there pretty good on the middle setting, I might try and adjusting the sway bar to the stiffer setting, which is the furthest in correct? Before the end links were not perfectly going straight up and someone mentioned they are supposed to be straight up, correct? With it on the stiffest setting the end links go straight up. I still feel it has something to do with this subframe though.
Sway bar link bracket M8 bolts: 14 ft-lbs
Sway bar link to bar or strut M10 nut: 41 ft-lbs
Stiffest setting is with the sway bar link attached closest to the sway bar (minimum leverage).
a